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SenorPepe · 01-20-2012, 02:34 PM

I think mine ending at 1.012 is going to be perfect. I haven't had the real 90 minute in years so it's not really important if it's a few points of from the real thing. Early testers have the malt right where I want it.

Silentnoiz · 01-20-2012, 07:55 PM

I'm a big fan of DFH's 60/90/120 and this recipe looks great. Especially exciting are the reviews of how good it smells and tastes

. I think I'm going to brew this tomorrow.

First question - I have 18 pounds of Briess 2-row pale malt from a DIPA I did last week, and I can get the Thomas Fawcett. Will that still work out close (I may use all 18 as I don't think my efficiency is that high).

In that DIPA I did last week, I used WP007 (that stuff rocks!). I have it in my primary (5gal), and was going to rack to a secondary (and dry-hop).

Second question - if I simply rack off the bottom of that primary, could I just put my chilled wort straight into that cake (yeast and trub and all), give it a good swirl and be off to the races?

Any advice is appreciated!

Silentnoiz · 01-20-2012, 08:02 PM

Sorry, for some reason I had it in my head that the recipe called for a Pilsner malt.

Another question tho

; any thoughts on cold-crashing my primary before racking?

brew2enjoy · 01-20-2012, 08:21 PM

There is quite a bit of information on here about pitching directly on yeast cakes. I would do a search and read up on those threads. Technically you would be over-pitching, but that probably won't hurt your beer. I would use the Mr Malty pitching calculator found online and pitch the correct amount of slurry.

Nothing wrong with cold crashing, crash away!

**scottland** · 01-20-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silentnoiz

First question - I have 18 pounds of Briess 2-row pale malt from a DIPA I did last week, and I can get the Thomas Fawcett. Will that still work out close (I may use all 18 as I don't think my efficiency is that high).

Yes, you're perfectly fine. If you use 18lbs of two row, use some more amber malt to keep the %s of malt the same. Just calc out the %s and keep the ratio the same.

Quote:

In that DIPA I did last week, I used WP007 (that stuff rocks!). I have it in my primary (5gal), and was going to rack to a secondary (and dry-hop).

It's not ideal to go from a huge beer to another huge beer, but it'll still work. It just might be a pinch more estery and FG might be a pinch high, but in this beer, that'll be fine.

Don't pitch on the whole cake though. Sanitize two buckets/carboys. Rack your DIPA into one(secondary). Sanitize a stainless spoon, or some other scooping tool, and scoop out about 1/3 of the yeast cake into the second clean fermenter. That's all you need (and then some). Then rack your cooled 90min wort into that. If you don't have two spare fermenters. sanitize a jar or something, and scoop the yeast into that, then clean and sanitize the fermenter before racking your wort into it.

Silentnoiz · 01-21-2012, 03:52 AM

Thanks for the replies guys. This site has a lot of valuable information, experiences, and opinions. I'm realizing that many opinions differ, which just means I'll have to try them all myself to find out.

I ran across a really informative post (albeit long) on yeast pitching that really makes a lot of sense (it's measured): http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/why-not-pitch-your-yeast-cake-166221/. I think it probably will probably fall right in line with your recommendation to use 1/3 of the yeast cake.

Here's my situation:
Brewed a 10gal DIPA 6 days ago (put into two 5gal glass carboys), using WLP007. Target OG was 1.09 but we were WAY off and only got to 1.068 (I think I know why, but won't get into that here, I'll try my fixes first). I did a starter and fermentation seemed to go really well (started within the first couple hours). I have 2oz Citra and 1oz (both leaf) to dry hop into each 5gal. I want to capture and reuse the yeast (I have links to good processes for doing that).

Here's my question:
Do I:
A - On day 7 (either that or I wait until day 14 since I'll be out of town) rack to and dry-hop in secondary and capture the yeast from the primary.
OR
B - On day 7 simply dry-hop (in muslin bags) into the primary and harvest the yeast when I go to bottle.

I've read A LOT of posts on using secondary vs just staying in the primary, but since I want to harvest the yeast AND dry-hop, I'm not sure what the best route is. Any recommendations and why?

Thanks!

brew2enjoy · 01-23-2012, 06:01 PM

Getting close with this one. Transfered to the keg on Saturday and added the last dose of dry hops in a mesh bag. I'll give it a week at room temp and start force carbing. I cannot wait to try this beer chilled and carbonated. I have a feeling this is going to be one of my best brews so far!

SenorPepe · 01-23-2012, 07:17 PM

I've been drinking about a bottle a day, starting at Day 4 in the bottle. Even chilled and not-so-carbonated it's pretty damn good.

mtchabot · 01-29-2012, 06:33 PM

Just finished this recipe. Only issue was I realized during the mash that I didn't have the 1oz of warrior. Shouldve run an inventory check before I started. Anyways, wondering if its a good idea or not to add the warrior to the dry hop. What do you think?

**scottland** · 01-30-2012, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtchabot

Just finished this recipe. Only issue was I realized during the mash that I didn't have the 1oz of warrior. Shouldve run an inventory check before I started. Anyways, wondering if its a good idea or not to add the warrior to the dry hop. What do you think?

You can, but I don't see warrior adding much to the dry hop. Expect the beer to be a little less bitter than 90 minute, but otherwise close. Warrior doesn't contribute much in terms of flavor and aroma, it's sole purpose in this recipe is bitterness.