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Old 03-10-2008, 03:32 AM   #31
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Default Special B


Are you getting any raisin notes from the Special B. I can't remember that from the original, but it sounds interesting.

KD

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Old 03-11-2008, 12:39 AM   #32
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Can't get WLP007 locally. LHBS said Wyeast Whitbred yeast would work well or use 005. Any thoughts on this? I want the nice dry finish.

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Old 03-11-2008, 02:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korndog
Can't get WLP007 locally. LHBS said Wyeast Whitbred yeast would work well or use 005. Any thoughts on this? I want the nice dry finish.
uwmgdman used Wyeast 1028 and was pleased with the results. I've never used anything other than WLP007 to make it so I can't attest to the results of using another yeast.

There's just enough special B in there to add to the aroma. This beer does not present any dark fruit aroma or taste.

Jdawg, your comments are curious to me. Every time that I've brewed this it borders on stout to me, but I still consider it a porter. Did you mash in at 1.25qt/lb. and mash at 154?
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:15 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiobrewtus
uwmgdman use Wyeast 1028 and was pleased with the results. I've never used anything other than WLP007 to make it so I can't attest to the results of using another yeast.

There's just enough special B in there to add to the aroma. This beer does not presetn any dark fruit aroma or taste.

Jdawg, your comments are curious to me. Every time that I've brewed this it borders on stout to me, but I still consider it a porter. Did you mash in at 1.25qt/lb. and mash at 154?
I found a site that lists Wyeast 1098 as a direct equivalent to 007. I have this yeast, so I will give it a shot. Thanks for the reply on the Special B.
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:14 AM   #35
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Hey guys-

I missed my strike by about 4 degrees at 1.25qt/lb and think that contributed to my low OG- I also ended upwith about 3/4 gallon extra after boil and I followed the recipe listed. The extra wort after my boil would without any question lower my OG, next time I will boil for longer and take readings every 5 minutes till I get what I want. I would like to try this one out with a increased grain bill, more crystal and 2 row- I tend to really like "bigger" dark beers but really like the drinkability of this one.

Cheers!

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Old 03-18-2008, 04:36 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawg
I did my batch today and everything went great... although my OG came in @1.051 @ 70 degrees F. ant thoughts?
I did mine today and came in a touch lite as well. Oh well. I took reading at 70f and and it was 1.052 which adjusted out at 1.053 on promash. I cooled to 60f and it read 1.058. I have had this happen often while adjusting from a higher temperature. Used Wyeast 1098. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Dumped hydro sample without a taste...Damn.

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Old 03-18-2008, 07:38 PM   #37
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Anybody try this with White Labs London Ale yeast (WLP013) yet? I just happen to have that one in stock....

Not a problem to buy the Dry English Ale yeast (WLP007) as originally called for, just thought I would see if anybody had experience w/ the London in this recipe.

Thanks!

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Old 03-20-2008, 12:20 AM   #38
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Mine turned out great- I couldn't wait for it to age so I kegged 5 gallons and have been enjoying it throughly- the other 5 is being aged. Looking forward to checking the difference between the aged and the young.

- Cheers!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:24 PM   #39
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so i found <a href="http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?threadid=10451">here</a> a supposed friend of a Great Lakes brewer claiming they use Wyeast 1028.

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Old 04-07-2008, 04:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawg
Mine turned out great- I couldn't wait for it to age so I kegged 5 gallons and have been enjoying it throughly- the other 5 is being aged. Looking forward to checking the difference between the aged and the young.

- Cheers!!!!!!!!
So, what's the verdict? I'm coming up on four weeks on mine. When should I keg this baby?
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