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08-07-2009, 06:35 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 91
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Need a little hops help on this. If I buy Tettnang and Willamette and the AA is lower that what is shown in this recipe, is is better to add more (weight) or boil longer to get the IBUs right? |
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08-08-2009, 02:18 AM
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#32
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...My Junk is Ugly...
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11,856
Liked 331 Times on 209 Posts Likes Given: 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zonabb
Need a little hops help on this. If I buy Tettnang and Willamette and the AA is lower that what is shown in this recipe, is is better to add more (weight) or boil longer to get the IBUs right?
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Add more. Better science that way. Plus, this beer likes a bit of the hops invasion...being a "bitters" and all. 
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08-20-2009, 11:28 AM
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#33
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 79
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Can I split the grain and hop bill to do a 5.5 gallon batch? Also, do you recommend a switch out of MO for the PA and 1 lb of biscuit for the toasted malt? The redhook website says that they use a "premium western two-row barley malt" so I'm assuming that they use a good American 2-row Pale Ale malt.
Also, does the dry-hopping add the missing hop flavor/aroma from your first batch or was it unneccessary? What did you dry hop with and how much?
Last edited by St. Jon's Wort; 08-20-2009 at 11:31 AM.
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10-08-2009, 05:29 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wahoo ne
Posts: 12
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Marris Otter
I would also like to use Marris Otter in this brew. I read somewhere that if you substitute MO for 2-row you can use less. How much less should I Use?
If that is not correct I was thinking of using 15lb of MO and 5 LB 2-row toasted. Would that Work?
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10-08-2009, 06:52 PM
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#35
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...My Junk is Ugly...
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11,856
Liked 331 Times on 209 Posts Likes Given: 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quinnae
I would also like to use Marris Otter in this brew. I read somewhere that if you substitute MO for 2-row you can use less. How much less should I Use?
If that is not correct I was thinking of using 15lb of MO and 5 LB 2-row toasted. Would that Work?
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Use the same amount regardless of which base malt you choose.
15 and 5 sounds just fine. 
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10-09-2009, 04:15 AM
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#36
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 221
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Guys/Gals -
Question on this one.. Tomorrow I'm at 3 weeks in the fermenter. I took a Hydro sample today.. Its at 1.022 - high considering the recipe, but ZERO activity in the 2ndary currently. That's about 62% attenuation.
It tastes great, but I'm concerned about this FG. I aimed for 157 for the mash, but may have been a degree higher, but I don't think it was much more than that.
I didn't use a starter and I used Wyeast 1098 - attenuation supposed to be in the 70ish range. The Activator pack was very sluggish to swell and the primary fermentation seemed slow to start.
Have any advice? Call it good and bottle, or try to get it to finish out more? Once I put it in the 2ndary, I moved it to a 69-70 degree area in my house, so its in warm area if that could influence things.
Kinda not sure what to do with this one. Thanks for the help.
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10-28-2009, 08:28 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wahoo ne
Posts: 12
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BierMuncher,
I read post number 3 where you said you would condition this beer differently. I do not typically transfer to a secondary. Do you think this beer would be clear if I primary this beer for 2 weeks, transfer to kegs and let age for 2 weeks then chill and let it sit in the keezer for 2 weeks before taping?
I am looking for clarification on your fermentation process. For this beer did you ferment in the primary for 7 days then rack to a secondary for 10 days then cold crash in the secondary before you keged it?
Last edited by quinnae; 10-29-2009 at 03:26 PM.
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10-31-2009, 04:17 AM
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#38
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...My Junk is Ugly...
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 11,856
Liked 331 Times on 209 Posts Likes Given: 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quinnae
BierMuncher,
I read post number 3 where you said you would condition this beer differently. I do not typically transfer to a secondary. Do you think this beer would be clear if I primary this beer for 2 weeks, transfer to kegs and let age for 2 weeks then chill and let it sit in the keezer for 2 weeks before taping?
I am looking for clarification on your fermentation process. For this beer did you ferment in the primary for 7 days then rack to a secondary for 10 days then cold crash in the secondary before you keged it?
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I don't cold crash in the secondary. Too much work lugging that carboy in and out of a chest freezer. I always rack to a keg and then cold crash. Your scenario in your first paragraph will work just fine. 
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11-03-2009, 09:42 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtiebrewery
Made mine on saturday fermenting happily in my chest freezer right now... I split the batch and instead of doing a 11 g I only did a 9g batch... I forgot to toast 3 lbs of 2 row so I adjusted my total mash grains accordingly and what not...
I split the yeasts between S-04 and Nottingham to see which version I like more with what yeast... If this beer turns out how I imagine it to turn out I will brew a Fullers Clone next time...
I am pretty fond of a good ESB
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Any news on which yeast you preferred?
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11-03-2009, 11:25 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 221
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FYI, all you folks who are thinking of brewing this, this beer is my favorite beer I have brewed thus far.
My goal in homebrewing was to brew a beer that rivals commercially crafted microbrews, and I can say now that I have satisfied that acheivement with this one.
This is ONE DELICIOUS BEER! Great recipe! Thank you BM!
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