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Old 04-01-2012, 09:45 PM   #151
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Want to make this tonight and I have a question. How long after pitching this yeast, how fast should it get to the 55 degree mark? Directions I have from my Homebrew store makes it seem like I wait for 24-36 hours then get it down to the 62-70 degree mark.

My Brown Ale I have, I waited 12 hours (same kind of directions) before getting it to 63 to allow for fermentaion to start well, but this was month or two ago and room temp was a bit lower than it is now. Just wondering if this is where my off taste is coming from in the Brown Ale and not wanting it in the Anchor beer.

Thanks
I fermented it at 55 degrees. I always pitch at or below fermentation temperature, using an appropriate sized starter, and let the beer rise to the proper fermentation temperature. I never pitch warm and then reduce the temperature.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:49 PM   #152
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So after transferring the wort from boiling pot to fermentation bucket I will get it down to the 62-70 degrees range then pitch the yeast in and then get it to the 55 degree mark?

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Old 04-01-2012, 09:59 PM   #153
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So after transferring the wort from boiling pot to fermentation bucket I will get it down to the 62-70 degrees range then pitch the yeast in and then get it to the 55 degree mark?
That's possible, I guess. But it's not easy to cool that much wort down to 55 degrees, if that's where you want to ferment. I cool the wort, and then add the appropriate amount of yeast (usually about a 3 liter starter) into the wort.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:37 AM   #154
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My ingredients:
Pilsen Light Malt Extract
Muntons Crystal 60 16 oz
NB .5 oz flavor and aroma
Warrior for bittereing
Safale US-05 (11.5g) dry yeast

I will hold off on this a day or two so I can get a second pack of yeast now or maybe even change it out. Will the Warrior be best to use in another recipe and get more NB or should it hold out fine?

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Old 04-02-2012, 12:42 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by Bgon View Post
My ingredients:
Pilsen Light Malt Extract
Muntons Crystal 60 16 oz
NB .5 oz flavor and aroma
Warrior for bittereing
Safale US-05 (11.5g) dry yeast

I will hold off on this a day or two so I can get a second pack of yeast now or maybe even change it out. Will the Warrior be best to use in another recipe and get more NB or should it hold out fine?
If you're using S05, no need to wait for more yeast. But be advised that the key to a really good CC is the lager yeast fermented at above lager yeast temperatures, and only a certain strain of lager yeast at that. Otherwise, it's just a plain 'ole amber-ish beer.

Warrior would be fine for bittering, I think.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:44 AM   #156
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I did not notice that about the yeast until just now. Not only was i given the wrong yeast, I was also short on the NB. I am glad I slowed down a bit and not rushed through it or I may not have been to happy with the outcome compared to the Anchor I have in the fridge. Emailing the HB shop now asking about the 34/70 I ordered.

Thanks

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Old 04-03-2012, 06:17 PM   #157
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Homebrew store will replace the missing hops and will the 34/70 lager dry yeast. NVM... upgraded to the correct liquid yeast.

Edited due to dropping iphone.

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Old 04-23-2012, 02:33 PM   #158
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Going to try to brew a cal common very soon. Spring time in NE and the temps only just dropped back to what should be normal for this time of year (had a warm winter and almost summer-like temps in April). This should mean my unfinished, not insulated basement should be able to keep the temp around 60-62, especially if I have the carboy on the cement floor. I don't have a fridge for fermenting at lager temps, so I did an altbier at 60°*this winter (using a fermwrap and temp control). I don't keg, so I had to bottle, carb up, and then lager the bottles. The alt came out fantastic, and very clear. Loved that Wyeast German Ale yeast (sludge at the bottom of my bottles allowed me to pour all the beer, unlike when I use Cal Ale yeast).

So, while the basement temps are cool, I'm going to try the Cal Common recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. Jamil Z says to brew something closer to Anchor Steam we should remove the Munich, Vicotry, and small amount of pale chocolate form the grist, but I'm thinking I'll just go with JZ's recipe. Loaded up on Northern Brewer hops (as it's one of the hops used commonly in the recipes I like, along with the typical Centennial and Cascade).

Will try to mash low (149-150) to dry it out a bit.

I have pretty soft water, and have found that my hop bitterness isn't as present or firm as it should be. Recently tried some gypsum in the boil for a hoppy amber (Tasty McDole's Amber recipe) and will likely do the same for this one. The only negative about my altbier was that it was supposed to be a Dusseldorf Alt, but the lack of hop firmness put it a bit more in the Northern Germany alt style, I think.

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Old 04-26-2012, 02:39 AM   #159
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Made this tonight. I added .5 oz more of NB hops at 5 mins in addition to the .5 at flameout for a bit more aroma.

It's already bubbling away thanks to my new aeration kit. Cannot wait till its done!

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Old 05-01-2012, 11:26 PM   #160
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Made this 5 weeks ago and while the taste is great it lacks the crispness that I expected and mine seems to have more of a creamy, thicker mouthfeel than expected. My question is will this beer continue to get crisp as it cold conditions?

For reference: I hit OG and FG perfectly,
fermented at 58 degrees and at 1.020 did a D rest until complete, moved back and let sit two weeks at 55 degrees, then added gelatin and cold crashed 48 hours, bottled and carbed up for three weeks, and has only been in the fridge 48 hours since carbed.

Is the lack of cold time since carbonation have anything to do with it? I've only brewed ales and it's the first time I've used this strain, I just expected it to be more crisp, for I've gotten crisper results with WLP001 fermented at 62.

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