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Old 01-31-2011, 04:46 PM   #21
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I'm not Yooper, but I did brew this awesome beer. Thanks Yoop for the recipe, it was a hit at Octoberfest. I wish I had done it now instead of June though, because it really developed over the next few months after O'fest.

What she has done in this recipe is a step mash, not a decoctation. If you are fly sparging on a direct fired MT, it's pretty easy. It's less easy if you are batch sparging in a cooler. You'll want to calculate a thick mash temp to hit the beta rest, then how much, of what temp, water to bring the temperature up to the alpha rest. Beer Tools or some of the other beer software programs can calculate it for you.

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Last edited by Ricand; 01-31-2011 at 04:49 PM. Reason: got my greek letters backward.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:34 PM   #22
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How close would this be if i used all Munich instead of the Vienna?

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Old 01-31-2011, 05:42 PM   #23
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How close would this be if i used all Munich instead of the Vienna?
Munich is definitely not like vienna malt. Aside from the color, munich is prepared very differently in the malthouse to develop the precursors to melanoiden development which are then brought out in the kilning - hence the rich malty flavours and aromas.

Vienna malt is very similar to a good tasty ale malt, usually kilned off at a higher temp than a pale malt but exhibiting the characteristics of a base malt. Offerings will vary slightly from maltster to maltster. Color is usually around 8-12 EBC (4-6 SRM)

You would be better served to sub your base malt for the Vienna to hit this recipe closer. OTOH, all Munich will give you a darker richer version. It would still be great beer I'm thinking.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:47 PM   #24
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Thank you, I will be snowed in (or so they say) tomorrow and the next day. I have a bunch of pils and Munich malt and a vile of Oktoberfest yeast, was going to take the opportunity to do a Marzen, but i think I'll wait till I can get some vienna.

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Old 01-31-2011, 06:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricand View Post
I'm not Yooper, but I did brew this awesome beer. Thanks Yoop for the recipe, it was a hit at Octoberfest. I wish I had done it now instead of June though, because it really developed over the next few months after O'fest.

What she has done in this recipe is a step mash, not a decoctation. If you are fly sparging on a direct fired MT, it's pretty easy. It's less easy if you are batch sparging in a cooler. You'll want to calculate a thick mash temp to hit the beta rest, then how much, of what temp, water to bring the temperature up to the alpha rest. Beer Tools or some of the other beer software programs can calculate it for you.
Unfortunately I am in the category of the latter, I use a cooler for my MT. Until Beer Tools gets their program to run on Mac I'm SOL for that. I'll have to do some more research. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out the step mash for this. From what I understand, you want to have a very thick mash to start so you dont thin it out too much as you mash in the higher temp water.
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:30 PM   #26
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So basically, I am doing my normal mash just at a lower temps and I'm not sparging the first run off, just adding to it. After the last 30 minute infusion collect all the runnings (6 gal). If this is correct, based on .75 quarts to 1 lb of grain for my beta rest I would need about 1.9G of water at 140F (mash in would obviously be higher for temp loss) then after 30 Minutes add 5.65G of water to hit 158 (about 163F if my grain is already at 140) and hold for another 30 minutes. Does this seem about right?

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Old 01-31-2011, 07:35 PM   #27
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So basically, I am doing my normal mash just at a lower temps and I'm not sparging the first run off, just adding to it. After the last 30 minute infusion collect all the runnings (6 gal). If this is correct, based on .75 quarts to 1 lb of grain for my beta rest I would need about 1.9G of water at 140F (mash in would obviously be higher for temp loss) then after 30 Minutes add 5.65G of water to hit 158 (about 163F if my grain is already at 140) and hold for another 30 minutes. Does this seem about right?
You got it.. close, you will need to check your numbers. Your second addition should be smaller so you still can sparge to rinse the grains. See how much 200 degree water will be needed to bring the grain bed up 18 degrees. Then after that rest, sparge with the remaining water.

Get Beer Tools Pro for the mac, I use it on my Air and it works great. I even think there is a free trial.
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:55 PM   #28
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I just did a quick strike water calculation on BTP with 12lbs of 70 degree grist, with a .75 qt/lb ratio the strike should be 158 and 2.25 gal to hit 140 degree mash. You would need to add 2.75 gal of 200 degree water to bring it up to 158 for the alpha rest. Factoring grain absorption you can still have about 3 gal to get a decent sparge. Please check these numbers for yourself, I don't want to be responsible. I don't do it this way, since I step mash with a direct fired MLT. Perhaps someone who is batch, step sparging can weigh in here.

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Old 01-31-2011, 07:58 PM   #29
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Ahh I see, I forgot about the sparge. so how hot should the sparge be? 167ish?

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Old 01-31-2011, 08:34 PM   #30
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You want to raise the bed temp to just below 170, I'd probably want to use around 180 water and mix quickly. Supposedly the husks will leach tannins above that or something. I try to mash out warmer to thin the sugars and get them to rinse better.

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