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Old 06-30-2009, 08:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverbrewer View Post
You will have to do some research to verify this, but please do some sort of check with other steam guys in your area to double check.
..
maybe you should do some research!

becase you are wrong about ss boilers
this is only 15 psi
and a sankey keg is thicker that most stove top SS pressure cookers.
a sankey key has a working max psi of 60 psi and that means by law it has to be safe at 2x that lvl so it can handle 120 psi


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Old 05-28-2010, 07:45 PM   #32
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Yuri,

I'm in the process of figuring out how to build an automated system similar to what it sounds like you have. I was planning on a herms, but i think i like the idea about steam. It looks like the pictures have disappeared though, so i'm wondering if you could point me to some more pics of your setup? I think that would answer most of the questions I have lol

Thanks a bunch!!
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:13 PM   #33
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Yuri,
I have a brew pot with a heat exchanger that I am looking to apply steam as a heating source. I am trying to decide if i want a return line for the condensate or just let the condensate drip off. I like your idea of using the keg as a steam generator, which I probably will use. I was told that I could keep my exchanger higher than the steam generator, (along with a one way valve) gravity would return the condensate to the steam keg. Using that kind of setup it would be a closed system pressure cooker (with gauge and pressure relief) with heat exchanger at a higher level. One thing that I am worried about is if the one way valve and gravity will be enough to keep the steam flowing. Do you have any suggestions for making a system like that flowing and possibly even something to keep it flowing without being higher than my steam keg, or any other suggestions for safety devices that would eliminate problems?
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton View Post
maybe you should do some research!

becase you are wrong about ss boilers
this is only 15 psi
and a sankey keg is thicker that most stove top SS pressure cookers.
a sankey key has a working max psi of 60 psi and that means by law it has to be safe at 2x that lvl so it can handle 120 psi
Maybe so, but if something goes wrong it could be a major bummer. Run your hand over a small 250+*F steam leak once and you will understand what I'm saying. Explosions are not the only risk. I freely admit that DIY steam boilers scare the hell out of me.
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Old 05-11-2011, 04:44 PM   #35
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Good luck with the steam boiling, you might want to check out GreenMontis threads on flash boiler and steam heated coils and calandras for boiling.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mk-i-161799/index15.html
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:08 PM   #36
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i am not able to see his pics.
are they gone or do i need to upgrade
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:40 PM   #37
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It looks like GreenMonti's pictures are gone, here is a a link to Sanch's build thread with a flash boiler http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sanchs-official-all-tri-clover-rig-build-242040/index4.html. With steam for boiling the primary problem will be how much steam you can generate, which is directly related to the heat source. If trying to use electric water heater elements, it would be more efficient to just install them in the kettle to eliminate losses. With the flash boiler the burner under the boiler is the limiting factor, 100K Btu burner in a 6" tube is what is currently used, for a net heating yield in the range of 10 - 15 Kw. This approach is controlled by varying the burner flame, not the water flow or steam pressure. While the burner flame can be controlled electronically with a mass flow controller and pid controller with voltage or current output, it is not simple or cheap.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:09 AM   #38
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Yuri, I was wondering what was your maximum pressure that you achieved on this set up?
just wondering if it creaks any when the psi picks up?
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:03 PM   #39
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Never more than 12 psi. No creaking.


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