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chefchris · 06-23-2009, 01:41 AM

So after 4 days of non stop work on my collar I go to put it on and the son of a bitch is too big. I got the wood cut at Home Depot. I was asking him questions about the cuts he was making and he just looked at me and said, "I've been doing this long enough, I know what I'm doing."

I haven't been this mad in a very long time. My girlfriend was a little scared.

What he ended up doing was not accounting for the width of one board, thus making the collar to wide from from to back.

There's only two ways I can think of to fix this. One, which is my last resort, is to take it back apart, hack off the extra and put it back together. Or I could remove the hinges from the freezer bottom and put in some sort of spacer to account for the extra.

I just kegged that IPA in the background since I thought had room in the freezer now. I have been working on this since Thursday night.

HBT, I need you now more than ever.

eschatz · 06-23-2009, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chefchris

There's only two ways I can think of to fix this.

Third way:

Take the whole thing back to HomeDepot and shove it sideways up that sorry excuse for a carpenter's ass.

I'd be pissed too.

**arturo7** · 06-23-2009, 01:45 AM

Sorry to hear that.

Never let anyone make your cuts for you. Especially the Despot.

Displaced MassHole · 06-23-2009, 01:47 AM

Try fixing those links and we should be able to help.

chefchris · 06-23-2009, 01:52 AM

fixed. sorry they had the word **** in the title and it blocked it.

chefchris · 06-23-2009, 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eschatz

Third way:

Take the whole thing back to HomeDepot and shove it sideways up that sorry excuse for a carpenter's ass.

I'd be pissed too.

That mother ****er had better be glad they had just closed. Cause I was headed out the door.

Displaced MassHole · 06-23-2009, 01:56 AM

By the looks of it that back seems to be flush, as you have the hinges installed. That leads me to believe that the front of the collar is overhanging the edge of the keezer itself.

If you dont want to dissasemble the whole thing, you could just cut another piece of 1 X and place it behind the front piece of the collar.

That would mean you would have to re-drill holes for your taps but atleast you wont have to fvck with the finish of the collar by ripping it apart.

Does that make sense to you? It's hard to tell from those angles you took.

chefchris · 06-23-2009, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Displaced MassHole

By the looks of it that back seems to be flush, as you have the hinges installed. That leads me to believe that the front of the collar is overhanging the edge of the keezer itself.

If you dont want to dissasemble the whole thing, you could just cut another piece of 1 X and place it behind the front piece of the collar.

That would mean you would have to re-drill holes for your taps but atleast you wont have to fvck with the finish of the collar by ripping it apart.

Does that make sense to you? It's hard to tell from those angles you took.

Nothing's attached yet and there are no holes drilled except for the CO2 line. The back is flush and the front hangs over by the width of the board. This also causes a problem with the top fitting on right.

Are you saying to cut another front piece and attach it behind what is now the front piece? Problem is I have L braces attached and have caulked it as well.

**bighandsray** · 06-23-2009, 02:36 AM

you could take just the front board off. Cut it down by the width of your 2, 2x6's and slide it inside the side boards. This should not mess up your finish too much.

bikeboy389 · 06-23-2009, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chefchris

Nothing's attached yet and there are no holes drilled except for the CO2 line. The back is flush and the front hangs over by the width of the board. This also causes a problem with the top fitting on right.

Are you saying to cut another front piece and attach it behind what is now the front piece? Problem is I have L braces attached and have caulked it as well.

But the L-braces will come off, and the caulk can be trimmed out pretty cleanly with a razor or sharp box cutter. I think this is a good solution if you can make it work at all. Once the new piece is in place (held in by glue and a few screws), you can put the brackets back in against that piece, and re-caulk.

And I gotta point out for the benefit of others: If there was ever an example of the need to re-measure and test fit before final assembly and finishing, this is one. This would have been SO easy to fix before you finished it.