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Old 09-01-2009, 06:08 PM   #21
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i ended up a little too hung over to work on it on sunday, i'll get some more work done and post more pics soon.


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Old 09-03-2009, 04:08 AM   #22
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I started using the sheets of OSB to box in the chamber


Fitted the large side


Another angle


I mentioned the other day that I had some household insulation left so I decided to stuff it under the workbench surface and between the top of my chamber




I used some scrap pieces to close things up


Top done.


I'm still working with scrap and extra lumber I had in my garage, so the working total of this build is $0.

Tomorrow's my birthday, so I wont be doing any more work on it...probably not until next week with the weekend coming.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:11 AM   #23
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Any downside to using that insulation between the top and the work surface? Let me know soon, as its still removable
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:08 PM   #24
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You're going to want/need to cut 1" rigid foam panel insulation for the inside of the chamber. It's fairly cheap ($13 a 4x8 sheet) and will keep temps holding well and limit the cycling of the fridge. Nice work so far!
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Old 09-03-2009, 03:26 PM   #25
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Looks good, and happy birthday!
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #26
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I don't see how that insulation would hurt things. Looks to me like more would only be a good thing.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
Looks good, and happy birthday!
Thanks!

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I don't see how that insulation would hurt things. Looks to me like more would only be a good thing.
I thought so too, just asking to make sure.

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You're going to want/need to cut 1" rigid foam panel insulation for the inside of the chamber. It's fairly cheap ($13 a 4x8 sheet) and will keep temps holding well and limit the cycling of the fridge. Nice work so far!
Yep, I'm going to look at Home Depot and see if they have 1" or 1 1/2" foam panels. Lowes near me only had 3/4" thick.
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:17 PM   #28
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I work in the construction defect industry, and you will absolutely have to seal the inside of your chamber to be as airtight as possible.

You will get vapor transmission up into the cavity with the insulation, and the batt insulation will act like a sponge and soak up any moisture in the air. Wet insulation with wood = MOLD and wood decay.

I would try and get a thin plastic sheet good to line your chamber and caulk the piss out of all the joints.
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:48 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by rbarr110 View Post
I work in the construction defect industry, and you will absolutely have to seal the inside of your chamber to be as airtight as possible.

You will get vapor transmission up into the cavity with the insulation, and the batt insulation will act like a sponge and soak up any moisture in the air. Wet insulation with wood = MOLD and wood decay.

I would try and get a thin plastic sheet good to line your chamber and caulk the piss out of all the joints.
I was thinking about that. The plan is to seal the inside of the chamber as good as possible. Humidity here is extremely low anyway, do you think that there will be a condensation problem that could impact that insulation? or the insulation in the back wall as well?
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:22 PM   #30
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i'm struggling to find the foam insulation in large thicknesses. The best i can do with the foil stuff is 3/4", which i guess I could double up on to get me to 1 1/2". I also found 2" polystyrene but I dont know if that would work. Thoughts?


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