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Old 10-29-2011, 01:19 AM   #1
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Default Wood Brutus 10

Have been doing a lot of research through the beer forums...I really like this design. I have started building. Since my talent lies more in wood working rather than metal working I built the frame out of wood. I did find a few example of Wood Brutus 10s to follow. Yes I use propane and my current rig is wood. With air gap and some metal shielding there is no problem. The picture below chronicles the build to date. I'll post picture as I progress and funding allows.

Starting to put together the frame... squaring the corners


Top and bottom frame constructed



Attaching the vertical supports



Basic frame constructed



Fitting the wind screen/heat shield. Yes it is stainless sheet...some recently acquired scrap cut and fitted in a trough shape. The burners will go inside.



Added a top rail



Added casters



Applied stain



Applied 2 coats of polyurethane



1 1/2" angle iron will serve to support the keggles. It is cut to length and drilled for...1/2 x 4" bolts will attach to frame...cross members are coming that will go width wise across the angle iron support.

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Old 10-29-2011, 01:21 AM   #2
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Installed the side rails tonight. Will buy 1 1/4" square tube as the cross members to support the keggles when payday hits.



This is the last picture for now. Will post more as I do more.

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Old 10-29-2011, 01:36 AM   #3
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Very nice work!
No offense to Lonnie... His system is excellent
What defines a Brutus Clone?

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Old 10-29-2011, 02:35 PM   #4
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I'm building a wood brutus type rig as well and I think I got a little overzealous with the size of it. I used 2x6's as the top and bottom and mitered the corners like you did. Instead of nails I used lug bolts (got a whole bunch for free and they look cool). I wasn't planning on doing a top rail but I like the idea.

What's the purpose of the stainless basin and what kind of burners are you planning on using? Two of my burners are going to be the BG14's and the center burner on the mash tun is the six inch mulit hole burner. My whole system will be low pressure since I'm using the honeywell 8200 valves.

I was looking to cut down my rig's size to closer to what you have there but was worried about scorching the wood. Care to share your measurements? I plan on staining and coating it and lining the interior with aluminum flashing. I thought it might help also if I put a spacer behind the aluminum to keep it off of the wood about a 1/2". Also, I was planning on using aluminum for windshields around the burner.

My keggles will actually be inset enough that the valves come out just over the top edge of the wood stand (much like ScubaSteves wood rig). I've been out of the country for quite awhile now and can't wait to get back and finish what I started. I've been buying the parts over the last several months so they'll be waiting for me when I get home... STOKED!!

EDIT: How do you plan on mounting your burners?

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Old 10-29-2011, 02:38 PM   #5
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I think what define a clone is cloning his process. Looking at RIMS systems and HERMS systems I like the direct fired mash. This is actually a clone of of another wood Brutus I found on HomeBrewTalk. I bought the plan's to Lonnie's system through BYO and loved the simplicity of the process. My brew rig has gone through many iterations and I think his process may be the best marriage of simple process/design and automation.

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Old 10-29-2011, 02:50 PM   #6
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@ Collinsbrew....

Sure, the overall dimensions are 66" long, 24" wide, and 24" tall. I used 2x4s for the framing. It's actually a little taller since it's on casters. I copied rhutter's design (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/wood...roject-171462/). He suggested making it a little longer to give more space between keggles so I did. The length of his is 60".

The Stainless steel basin is going to be the windscreen/heat shield. I happened to get it as scrap for free. most of it was already pre-bent so a little extra cutting and bending and ...voila...a little overkill but it was free. Also since the vertical studs are on the inside where the basin mounts it creates an insulating air gap.

My current stand is made of wood with much less gap but shielded with tin you make ducts from. no problem with scorching. Also knew the 2x4's would be plenty strong since the load is well distributed...plus I got the 2x4's as scrap too...gotta love free stuff.

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Old 10-29-2011, 02:54 PM   #7
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I plan on mounting the burners to the basin using L-brackets. That basin is some pretty stout stuff. I plan on using black iron pipe as the gas line which will also provide some support. I'll have to cut holes under the burners to allow for good air flow.

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Old 11-17-2011, 10:36 PM   #8
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A minor update. Installed the cross members to support the keggles. Up next is to buy my burners...thanks everyone for the advice. I am going to go with the 10" banjo's for all of them. Here are a couple of new pics.


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Old 11-18-2011, 01:30 PM   #9
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Immediately following in your footsteps, been looking for a great wood structure to go off of and build mine. This one is perfect, how do you plan on installing the burners? And I see you got that metal shield from scrap, if I wanted the same thing is that available for purchase anywhere? What would you use to substitute if you didn't find that?

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Old 11-18-2011, 08:27 PM   #10
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I've seen it in Home depot and Lowes for the sheet steal. I'm planning on cutting hole in the bottom in the diameter of the burners and then attaching with L-brackets. The burners will be basically resting on the bottom...the holes are to allow for good air flow for combustion. The sheet steal I have on there is pretty stout stuff and will support the weight of the burners. As a substitute I'd install a second rail and run cross members to support the burners. The angle iron for the second rail and cross members don't have to be as large as the primary rail...I'd use 1/2" stuff...since all it needs to support are the burners.

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