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Old 03-06-2009, 11:27 PM   #11
Gordie
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You guys rule.

Quick question - If I develop a serious lack of initiative and decide to try and just bridge the 120vac over to the LED side of the circuit, other than just glowing orange - what's the worst that can happen?


Gordie

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Old 03-07-2009, 02:56 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Gordie View Post
You guys rule.

Quick question - If I develop a serious lack of initiative and decide to try and just bridge the 120vac over to the LED side of the circuit, other than just glowing orange - what's the worst that can happen?


Gordie
Burn up the LED. I'd sooner leave those pins open.
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Old 03-07-2009, 04:12 AM   #13
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Check your part number for "W or G" contact material.

G is limited to 28 V AC/DC.

If rated for 120 V you need a 12 K resistor, 1 Watt min..
The resitor will get warm.

Get new switches made for your application with 120 V neon lamps.

Cheers,
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:14 PM   #14
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Or add a small 120-3v transformer, a rectifier, and a few resistors.

All are small enough to fit inside your box (unless it's packed tight)

gimme a few and i'll mouser some parts.

B

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Old 03-08-2009, 08:56 PM   #15
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transformer (12v because they're cheap)
41PG120

Rectifer
BR61

resistor ( Without re-reading the whole thread, I think it was 1.9v forward and I based it on 20ma)
MF1/4DC6200F

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Old 03-08-2009, 09:39 PM   #16
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resistor ( Without re-reading the whole thread, I think it was 1.9v forward and I based it on 20ma)
MF1/4DC6200F
If I read the datasheet right, it said max continous for that switch led is 10mA. Better make it 7 or 8 to extend lifetime.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:27 PM   #17
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Groovy. Ok - at this late date at least I'm thinking I can read the specs. I found my old receipt and I have model number M2112TCFW01-RO. So -

Forward peak current - 25 mA
Continuous forward current - 10 mA
Forward voltage - 1.9 V

My contact material is code W, which gives me 6A @ 125VAC or 3A @ 30V DC.

Bad Coffee - dude I really appreciate you running down the part numbers but looking through the catalog and the data sheets has made me realize my limitations on that one. I think I'm going to harvest an old 12V adaptor and wire the output to the LEDs.

With the 10 mA forward current rating (I don't really know what that means, but oh well) is that resistor still suitable? Also - and this may sound like a dumb question, but I'm planning on soldering a resistor to each #5 connection (the (+) ) on each switch. Would it make sense to simply place one resistor in-line at the power out of the adaptor and then to a bus and from there wire the switches? Its not like they're expensive or anything but the more I tinker the more I can break...

Also - I just uploaded pics of the control panel into my profile if that helps.

Gordie.

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Old 03-09-2009, 12:07 AM   #18
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Quote:
With the 10 mA forward current rating (I don't really know what that means, but oh well) is that resistor still suitable?
Its easy to find the resistor value. ( Vsource - LEDVoltage) / LED current

8ma = 0.008A

( 12V - 1.9V ) / .008A = 1.262k

Anything around there will work.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
With the 10 mA forward current rating (I don't really know what that means, but oh well) is that resistor still suitable?
In simple terms:
The forward current is the current flowing through the LED in the on mode (turned on).
At 10 mA the LED emits the maximum amount of light energy (brightness) for continuous operation for X hours (Data sheet required).
Lowering the forward current will effect the light output (brightness) of the LED and can increase the live of the LED (Data sheet required).

Peak current is the max current the LED can handle for a short period of time (given in the data sheet).
Example use , pulsing light at high brightness.

1.2K Ohm as per Drustanos post is a good value for your application.
Any standard wattage from 1/8-1/4 is OK.


My edit:
Quote:
Also - and this may sound like a dumb question, but I'm planning on soldering a resistor to each #5 connection (the (+) ) on each switch.
Perfect!
The LED's don't care how the resistor is connected to (+) or (-) on the switch.
Quote:
Would it make sense to simply place one resistor in-line at the power out of the adaptor and then to a bus and from there wire the switches?
Will only work if you turn on one switch at a time without changing the brigthness.
Turning more than one on will affect the LED brigthness.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:33 AM   #20
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I'm not sure if its been mentioned, but that switch has two LED's in it. Just reverse polarity for a different colour. Could get a little tricky if you want to light both LED's at different positions. I would suggest only using the green one for ON.

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