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-   -   Wiring Gods/Geeks - I need help with switch bling. (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/wiring-gods-geeks-i-need-help-switch-bling-107147/)

Gordie 03-05-2009 11:46 PM

Wiring Gods/Geeks - I need help with switch bling.
 
Ok, so I've got these nifty switches in my control panel - they're NKK model M2100 SPDT. The nifty thing about them is they have a LED in the tip of the switch that glows red when the switch is off and green when the switch is on. The specs are here -

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/M2100.pdf

I've got them installed in a Brutus-style control panel and they're working fine for operating the components but I haven't been able to figure out how to get the LEDs lighting. The switches have six connections and, if anyone looks at the diagram, I'm thinking I need to send power to the #5 terminal and a return from the #4 and #6 terminals. But then I'm wondering if I need resistors, if I need to try and build an independent power circuit for the switches, etc...

Can anyone who actually knows what they're doing with this stuff help me out with this? (I'm trying to cut and paste the diagrams from the specs, but its not working... sorry...)

Thanks.

Gordie.

Brewers Hardware 03-06-2009 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordie (Post 1178469)
Ok, so I've got these nifty switches in my control panel - they're NKK model M2100 SPDT. The nifty thing about them is they have a LED in the tip of the switch that glows red when the switch is off and green when the switch is on. The specs are here -

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/M2100.pdf

I've got them installed in a Brutus-style control panel and they're working fine for operating the components but I haven't been able to figure out how to get the LEDs lighting. The switches have six connections and, if anyone looks at the diagram, I'm thinking I need to send power to the #5 terminal and a return from the #4 and #6 terminals. But then I'm wondering if I need resistors, if I need to try and build an independent power circuit for the switches, etc...

Can anyone who actually knows what they're doing with this stuff help me out with this? (I'm trying to cut and paste the diagrams from the specs, but its not working... sorry...)

Thanks.

Gordie.

What voltage/type are you switching? ie: 120VAC or 12VDC

Brewers Hardware 03-06-2009 12:18 AM

Which model # switch do you actually have?

ClaudiusB 03-06-2009 01:34 AM

Quote:

I'm thinking I need to send power to the #5 terminal and a return from the #4 and #6 terminals.
If you are using the 2113 Synchronous Bicolor version

Only pin 5 (+) and pin 6 (-) require wiring.
Switching to the up position connects 5 & 4 changing the color.
It's like moving the LED's to the right side.

You need to install a resitor based on your DC supply voltage.
If you are planning on using AC to light the LED's you will no longer have the RED or Green color, color turns orange regardless of position.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Gordie 03-06-2009 02:58 AM

Hi.

The model is the 2112 Synchronous bicolor version. I'm running 120vac from the wall into the control panel, which looks like it isn't going to work.

So if I'm reading this right, I'm better off wiring a separate circuit with a battery, (+) to 5 and (-) to 6. Is there an easy way to get 12vdc off the 120vac I'm currently using and just wire up a separate bus for the LEDs? (I'm quite the wiring newb...)

Gordie.

ClaudiusB 03-06-2009 03:12 AM

Quote:

Is there an easy way to get 12vdc off the 120vac I'm currently using and just wire up a separate bus for the LEDs? (I'm quite the wiring newb...)
Use a cheap wall adapter 5V or any DC out, just install the correct resistor based on the adapter voltage and LED current .


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

rsmith179 03-06-2009 03:18 AM

Radioshack has DC wall adaptors that should work for this. They're actually adjustable anywhere from 3V-12V DC. About $20.00 shipped...

Gordie 03-06-2009 04:48 AM

Ok. I think I'm getting it.

By the way - ClaudiusB - I checked out your brewery pics. Good lord, man. That looks like NASA and Dogfish Head had a kid.

So - in the interest of furthering my DIY abilities (which are quite newly founded and weak) I have an extra adaptor for my laptop lying around. Would it make sense to cut off the plugs and wire that from the busses I have in my control panel and send the output to a new bus and resistor to use for the LEDs? I have some room in my panel and could fit it inside without much problem.

Other than that, I'm not seeing an indication of the LED current in the specs to calculate what resistor I would need. Am I missing something?

I really appreciate the help, guys. I've been trying to figure this out on my own but this is way out of my skill-set. If y'all need any legal advice, let me know.

Gordie.

ClaudiusB 03-06-2009 06:01 AM

Continuous forward current for Toggle Switch type CF is 10 mA.
Forward voltage 1.9 V


Quote:

Would it make sense to cut off the plugs and wire that from the busses I have in my control panel and send the output to a new bus and resistor to use for the LEDs?
Yes

Open the adaptor, remove the board and the 120 V prongs, replace prongs with soldered wires.

Sample idea
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...VDC_Supply.jpg


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

yeoldebrewer 03-06-2009 06:56 AM

Claudius, your brewery looks like the Starship Enterprise--that's amazing!


A link to a website for calculating values of resistors in LED circuits:

Resistor Calculator


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