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Old 01-23-2013, 04:22 PM   #21
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Had to take yesterday off to attend to some customers.
Here is a pic of the connection box near the compressor. I'll try to draw up a quick schematic shortly.

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Old 01-23-2013, 04:36 PM   #22
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I'll try to explain in case that pic doesn't help.
The right is from the outlet (supply) and contains:
1 - Yellow/Green which goes to the ground terminal.
1 - Brown which goes to the terminal marked "L"
1 - Blue which goes to the terminal marked "N"

On the left, that wire goes up to the cabinet and contains:
1 - Blue which goes to "N"
1 - Brown which goes to "L"
1 - Black which goes to "C"

I show voltage between:
Grnd and "L"
"N" and "C"
and also between:
"C" and "L"

I hope that helps!

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:15 PM   #23
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OK, you should use the meter to verify this by disconnecting Black from "C" and cycling the thermostat:
It looks like the thermostat is switching between Blue and Black to power the compressor on terminal "C".

If you are unsure how to test it, let me know.


If that is correct, you will disconnect Black from the thermostat and connect it to #2 on the controller.

Brown connects to #4 on the controller

Blue connects to #1 and #3 on the controller


Blue and Brown will also be used for the light, depending on where the light connections are in that housing, you will have to make sure they still get there.


All of that is assuming you still want to make your connections at the thermostat housing. You can also make the same connections down at the compressor. Don't forget that the controller may not like the condensation that may form on it when mounted inside the refrigerator.

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:33 PM   #24
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Yeah, on second thought I like the idea of just hooking it up directly at the comp.
I don't even care about the light either. Would that make it easier?
I think that the original thermostat is not working as I can't even get the compressor to run. Is there a way I can check that?
It ran fine before I took apart the thermostat it just wouldn't hold a steady temp.

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Old 01-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bueschen View Post
I think that the original thermostat is not working as I can't even get the compressor to run. Is there a way I can check that?
It ran fine before I took apart the thermostat it just wouldn't hold a steady temp.
Is the thermostat assembly plugged back into the mounting bracket? All the wires connect through the bracket



Quote:
Originally Posted by bueschen View Post
Yeah, on second thought I like the idea of just hooking it up directly at the comp.
I don't even care about the light either. Would that make it easier?

Light or no light shouldn't make much difference. Same as what I said before for connections, just disconnect the Black at the compressor instead of at the thermostat. I would still recommend testing with the meter to verify that the original thermostat is switching the Blue to the Black.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:02 AM   #26
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Yes, the original thermostat assembly is back in place.

So, yeah, you better walk me through testing that it is switching like you think.

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Old 01-24-2013, 03:29 PM   #27
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Hmmm, if the thermostat is suspected of not working correctly, that changes the testing a bit.

I found specs for that starter relay on the compressor, it is a Danfoss 103N0021 starter relay. Typical use is with the thermostat switching from "L" to "C".


So, here is what you need:

Disconnect Black from "C" and insulate the end.

Connect #2 on the controller to "C".

Connect #1 and #3 on the controller to "L"

Connect #4 on the controller to "N"

There appears to be spade terminals available for all of the connections you need to make at the compressor relay, so you won't have to modify the original wiring other than unplugging the black.

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Old 01-24-2013, 04:14 PM   #28
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Viola!
Yer the friggin' man Reynolds!!!

One small thing though is that the compressor kicks on when the temp goes over the set temp and kicks off when the temp goes below.
I assume this is a simple reversing of two wires but I better let you tell me so I don't eff up at this point.

I'll take a stab of a guess but will wait for your reply to actually do it:
connect #1 to "C" and #2 to "L"
Do I get an "A"?!

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Old 01-24-2013, 04:30 PM   #29
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That is a programming issue, the control is in heat mode rather than cool. The compressor is cycling on and off as the control tells it to.


From the manual I found online:

Press "SET" key and hold more than 3 seconds to enter the menu display, the
screen appears "HC" code, press the "SET" key to display the working mode,
press the "▲" or "▼" to adjust the display, C means cooling mode; H means
heating mode.


I think what that is trying to say is:

1. Press and hold the "Set" key for at least 3 seconds until the display changes to the programming mode.

2. Press the "Set" key until the display shows "H" or "C" (expect it to say "H".)

3. Use the arrow key to change it to "C" for cooling.

4. Press the "Set" key again to exit setting
mode.


I think that is how it is supposed to work. If not, you might have to poke buttons a bit to figure it out.

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Old 01-24-2013, 04:34 PM   #30
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Good thing I didn't go fiddling with wires!
Sorry to question your skills.


Everything works perfectly now!

All joking aside, thanks a million for the help!
If you ever come to Munich, the Helles is on me!!!

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