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Old 04-02-2009, 07:28 PM   #1
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Default Will this do what I need for a heating element control?

I have become interested in modifying a kettle to accept a Heating element, because I may want to do full boils indoors next winter. But my stove will not boil 6.5 gallons before eternity.

So, I looked into The Pol's HERMS setup and some other stuff. Then I remembered that I have one of these https://www.coleparmer.co.uk/catalog...sp?sku=0157500

Would I be able to hook up a heating element to that and control the boil?

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Old 04-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #2
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No, to get a heating element to produce its rated wattage you need it to be at its proper voltage. If a 240v element is only driven with 120-140v you will get less than half the rated wattage. your best bet would be a PID/SSR combo. A PID/SSR/heatsink should cost around $80. PIDs are easy to wire and the benifit is set and forget temp control. check out www.auberins.com/

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Old 04-02-2009, 08:55 PM   #3
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Can't I get a 120V heating element? I only plan on doing 5.5 batches with it.

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Old 04-02-2009, 09:03 PM   #4
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Yes, I think 120v units can be had in 1500w and 2000w. It would definitely help your stovetop along but wouldn't do any good by itself. In that case you might as well just run them on/off and use your stovetop control to fine tune the boil.

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Old 04-02-2009, 09:09 PM   #5
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Dumb question, can I hook 2- 2000's in parallel?

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Old 04-02-2009, 09:12 PM   #6
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A 3000W 120VAC element would draw 25A. The unit you linked to is only rated at 10A. You could only run a max of 1200W. I think it'd take quite a while to get a boil going.

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Old 04-02-2009, 09:57 PM   #7
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Ok, the unit I posted is not exactly the one I have. It was my grandpa's equipment actually, probably built sometime in the 60's or 70's and it weighs at least 15lbs. I'll have to go have a look when I get a chance but, lets just assume its a 25A model. I could then run a 3000W element, yes?

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Old 04-03-2009, 08:36 PM   #8
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In theory, yes. You'd need a 25A 120V circuit. Not likely. 20A is probably the best you're going to get. 2400W. Why use the variable transformer at all? You'd probably want to just run the element full out. By itself, a 2400W element, assuming no losses, i.e. ambient air trying to cool the water, would take nearly an hour to bring 6.5 gal of 70*F water to 212*F.
YMMV.

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Old 04-03-2009, 09:24 PM   #9
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Well, this answers my questions completely then. Looks like I will simply revert to split boils this winter, indoors. But thats like 7 or 8 months away still. I have ALL SUMMER to brew outside. Can't wait to be standing there in shorts and sandals slaving over a boiling kettle outside when its 85*

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Old 12-28-2009, 04:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmars View Post
A 3000W 120VAC element would draw 25A. The unit you linked to is only rated at 10A. You could only run a max of 1200W. I think it'd take quite a while to get a boil going.

Where can one find a 3K watt 120 element?
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