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**mccumath** · 12-02-2012, 11:27 PM

A quick question.

Looking at adding an upper (top) port with QD to use my pump with QD fittings. After looking at the BK on theelectricbrewery.com, it appears he has two valves on the BK; a valve on the top input, and a valve on the output. I get the bottom valve, but why a valve on the input side of the kettle?

The answer may be obvious, but I must just be missing it. About to order some more parts from Bobby_M, so before I do, just wanted some clarification.

**mrrshotshot** · 12-02-2012, 11:44 PM

It's probably meant to be for a recirculation coil in an HLT (herms). You just happen to be using the kettle to boil in.

tophmck · 12-03-2012, 12:02 AM

I don't think kai has a return on his BK, just on his HLT and MLT. But I think the logic of having a ball valve on the in port is just that you can prevent fluid from leaking out if you fill the kettle over the port or have a vigorous boil going.

In principle you could also use it to apply back pressure on the pump and slow down the flow rate, although that's probably a bad idea with silicon tubing, since it can inflate like a balloon under pressure. That's why most people have a ball valve on the output of their pump.

**mccumath** · 12-03-2012, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tophmck

I don't think kai has a return on his BK, just on his HLT and MLT. But I think the logic of having a ball valve on the in port is just that you can prevent fluid from leaking out if you fill the kettle over the port or have a vigorous boil going.

In principle you could also use it to apply back pressure on the pump and slow down the flow rate, although that's probably a bad idea with silicon tubing, since it can inflate like a balloon under pressure. That's why most people have a ball valve on the output of their pump.

I decided to go without a valve on the in port for now, for the reason that I have a valve on the output side of the pump. That was why I had the question, since all the control I need should be at the output valve of the pump. Thanks for the help.

**GoodDogShelby** · 12-03-2012, 12:40 AM

I have one on the upper port of my BK. Up to now, I never really thought about why. When I designed and set up it I just did it. If you ask me now, I guess I would have to say that I want it there to keep things that I want to stay in and to keep things out that I want to stay out.

My port is at about the 8 gallon mark, so I guess it would be necessary to do 10 gallon batches, which I don't do.

**kpr121** · 12-03-2012, 12:45 AM

I frequently brew 10+ gallon batches, the valve at the top of my BK is necessary.

cdubbaya · 12-03-2012, 12:45 AM

There is no "in" valve at the top of the Boil Kettle on Kal's brewery setup. Not sure why you would need one really. There is one at the top of the HLT so you can hook up a hose to the faucet when adding water. This is just so you don't have to hold the hose while adding your first 20 gallons of water (assuming 10 gallon batches).

You also use that valve when the strike water is getting heated by recirculating through the HERMS coil and back into the kettle.

tophmck · 12-03-2012, 01:18 AM

Sure thing, mccumath.

Happyloon - A return port on the BK is useful if you want to whirlpool the wort around an immersion chiller or to recirculate boiling wort through a counterflow/plate chiller to sanitize it at the end of the boil.

cdubbaya · 12-03-2012, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tophmck

Sure thing, mccumath.

Happyloon - A return port on the BK is useful if you want to whirlpool the wort around an immersion chiller or to recirculate boiling wort through a counterflow/plate chiller to sanitize it at the end of the boil.

Hmm, I suppose that is true, although I was more pointing out that Kal's setup does not have a return valve on the BK. Makes sense since he uses a CFC, but you make a good point about the immersion chiller.

**JonW** · 12-04-2012, 05:19 PM

I use a valve at the top/input of my BK for setting the flow rate during fly sparging. A lot of people have their valves on their pumps, but I find it a pain to reach down to adjust it, then stand up to look in the kettle for the flow rate, then repeat until you get the right flow. By having the valve at the top of the kettle, you can look into the kettle and set the rate at the same time.

If you look at the pic in the link in my signature, you'll see that I have return valves at the top of my HLT, MLT and BK. I do continuous recirculation on the HLT & MLT and I then use the valves to set flow rates for both the MLT & BK when fly sparging.