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Old 12-22-2009, 10:26 PM   #11
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This is the finished product on a pile of laundry before I installed it on the rig.



This is a rough diagram. I changed it slightly in the final version. The cut off switch is a leviton 30 amp 240V dual pole cut off switch. You can't cut the power with a cheap switch which I originally wanted to do. If you are serious about doing this, consult an electrician, electricity is dangerous. Do not use this diagram as I did have to alter it significantly, it should just be used to see that there is enough room in a 12x12x6 box. By the way, since someone will ask, the box on the right of the control panel is a spa breaker box with a 30 amp circut breaker.

Finished (kinda):

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Old 12-22-2009, 10:29 PM   #12
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It should also be noted that you need to use separate 110/120v and 220/240v. The PID controllers don't like high voltage. Again, rough diagram made with low tech program. Know your stuff and have someone double check your work before you run it.

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Old 12-23-2009, 11:37 AM   #13
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It should also be noted that you need to use separate 110/120v and 220/240v. The PID controllers don't like high voltage. Again, rough diagram made with low tech program. Know your stuff and have someone double check your work before you run it.
Auberin's lists the supply voltage as 85~264VAC/50~60Hz. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "don't like high voltage"?
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:47 PM   #14
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If you can run something on lower voltage why wouldn't you? On top of that how would you regulate down the amount of power going into the tiny PID controller. I don't claim to be an electrician, but there is a reason there are adapters for most small electrical devices to regulate the power down into your device-i.e. a cell phone charger. If you want to run your controller at 220-240v when it can easily be run on 110-120v for the cost of an extension cord, go ahead. I would be interested on how long it would last.

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Old 12-23-2009, 04:56 PM   #15
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The Auber PIDs are made to run normally on 240VAC, they will last as long as they will on 120VAC.

If your panel has 240VAC coming in, it is easy to split off 120VAC for 120VAC devices though, and it is cleaner than running a 240VAC cord and a 120VAC cord to the rig. Running 2 power cords is silly if you have 240VAC to the panel anyway, you already have 120VAC there, make use of it, dont run 2 cords.

My current panel is 8x8, the new build will be much larger, 8x8 is very small when you throw a, distribution block, PID, SSR, heatsink, switches and three outlets on it!

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Old 12-23-2009, 05:39 PM   #16
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You can also get a 12v DC PID if you are looking for low voltage. Auber has one that I purchased.

I am running seperate cords on my rig because I do not want to put a 50amp circuit in my panel. I already have 20a circuit in the garage. So I just need to add a 30a for my 240. Plus I don't have to deal with running a nuetral for the 240v either.

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Old 12-23-2009, 06:17 PM   #17
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You can also get a 12v DC PID if you are looking for low voltage. Auber has one that I purchased.

I am running seperate cords on my rig because I do not want to put a 50amp circuit in my panel. I already have 20a circuit in the garage. So I just need to add a 30a for my 240. Plus I don't have to deal with running a nuetral for the 240v either.
Without a nuetral, do you gave GFCI protection on your 240?
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:49 PM   #18
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Without a nuetral, do you gave GFCI protection on your 240?
Yes, a gfci breaker will allow you to do this.
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Old 12-26-2009, 10:20 PM   #19
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Just scored a 16"x14"x6" from eBay for $70 including shipping. I think that should work - it's Nema 4X, rated for outdoor. I am planning to tap a 120V leg off the 240V for pump and aux power.

Chosenwon, I could just as easily use that for the PID too, but I don't see a good reason to go one way over the other. I was only wondering if you specifically knew of a fault in the PID design that would prevent 240V operation. And FYI, cell phone chargers use a "wall wort" because they actually need DC power, not AC power. The wall wort is just a transformer/rectifier. Not sure of the internals of a PID, but it sounds like that actually can operate on 240V.

Regarding a 240V GFCI - correct me if I'm wrong, but a straight-up 240V GFCI breaker will adequately protect 240V circuits, no neutral line needed. However, if you want to use the 240V supply to power 120V circuits (using a neutral tap), that's when you need the GFCI with the neutral line, otherwise called a 120/240V GFCI. This is what I plan to use.

Overall, I'll have 2 PIDs, 2 SSRs/heat sinks, 2 240V (3-wire) outlets, 2 120V outlets, 2 120V switches, some terminal/fuse blocks, a 240V/50A GFCI breaker/panel... that's about it from the top of my head.

I'd like to fuse the individual components as much as possible, internal to the box. I'm looking for a decent, compact fuse block that I could use as a terminal block and fuse holder combined, preferably to hold standard glass tube fuses. For the big breaker, I may just stick a spa pack on the back of the box, unless I can think of a neat and subtle way to mount a stand-alone breaker internal to the box. I don't plan on having square-D rails in the box, or anything crazy like that.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm trying to document the process fairly well as I go along, so that when I finish I'll have another successful project to post up here for other's to use for ideas and to spur dialogue. It's been fun so far!

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Old 12-28-2009, 05:19 PM   #20
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I could have been easily mistaken. All of the diagrams I had seen before building my set up used 120 to power up the PID. I thought this was neccessary so I replicated it. My set up works for me, especially because I use a 30 amp circut and pretty much max it out with my E-Kettle. I am glad a used a separate 120 for the PID (which hardly consumes any power) mainly because I use a heat stick to bump up mash temps. I have replaced my MLT with a round 10 gal beverage cooler, but will likely go back to the keg once I have a RIMS recirculation system set up.

Back on topic, it seems like you are handling this build well and doing your homework so your build should go well.

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