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Old 11-02-2009, 05:04 PM   #11
kman42
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Alright, I'm going to go with the silicone tubing. This may be a stupid question, but what size tubing fits on a 3/8 inch male barb? 5/16? I'm thinking of the tubing for the outside of the tun now to transfer the wort to the kettle.

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Old 11-02-2009, 05:17 PM   #12
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that will give a pretty snug fit. might not need a hoseclamp depending on pressure. 3/16 on 1/4 holds 40psi no clamp.

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Old 11-02-2009, 05:20 PM   #13
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The tubing inside the braid is one way of trying to prevent it from crushing and/or getting pulled out of whack. However, it closes of A LOT of the open area of the braid and I can't recommend it. You're hearing everyone tell you it's not needed and some telling you it's detrimental. All signs point to not using it. A coil of stainless or copper wire inside is all you need if you're really worried about crushing it.

My favorite solution is attaching 3/8" OD soft copper tubing the bulkhead and running that down close to the bottom of the cooler almost like a manifold install but wrap that with copper wire, then put the braid over top. It stays put, reduces dead space, and flows like a mofo.

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Old 11-02-2009, 05:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
My favorite solution is attaching 3/8" OD soft copper tubing the bulkhead and running that down close to the bottom of the cooler almost like a manifold install but wrap that with copper wire, then put the braid over top. It stays put, reduces dead space, and flows like a mofo.
So you have a copper tube with holes for draining with copper wire wrapped around it? and braid over all that???
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:33 PM   #15
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Yeah, that's exactly right. Have it go down to the bottom of the cooler from the bulkhead and then lay flat for a few inches. Put a cap on the end. Drill maybe 10 1/8" holes on the very bottom of the tube, 1/2" apart. Wrap coil of wire around the tube, then slip the braid on and clamp it to the tube at both ends.

The copper keeps the braid in position and siphons the very last bit of wort out. The coil of wire keeps the braid from laying flat on the tube, which would block a lot of the openings in the braid. Yet, it retains the very good filtration of the braid which is one advantage over typical single tube manifolds.

The only thing it doesn't really do well is fly sparging.

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Old 11-02-2009, 05:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kman42 View Post
Alright, I'm going to go with the silicone tubing. This may be a stupid question, but what size tubing fits on a 3/8 inch male barb? 5/16? I'm thinking of the tubing for the outside of the tun now to transfer the wort to the kettle.
I'm assuming you're using a 3/8" ball valve on your mash tun as spec'ed out in the Quick and Easy MT thread. That's what I have and the rest of my plumbing ended up being based on that.

I use 3/8" x 5/8" silicone tubing from McMaster-Carr on my whole rig (part number 51135K37). It fits fine on a 3/8" hose barb. I fasten them up using zip ties and a tie wrap gun (picked up a Harbor Freight for $8 or so).

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If you place a quick disconnect plug on your 3/8" ball valve (part number 6739K53) and a quick disconnect socket on your hose (part number 6739K37) it'll work like a champ.

I have those sockets on all my tubing and the plugs on all my hardware (mash tun, March pumps, brew kettle, plate chiller, etc.). The only problem with going with 3/8" it that it requires lots of 1/2" to 3/8" bushings because most everything uses 1/2" fittings. Most brewers prefer going 1/2" all around because of the higher flow rate. If you're just going to do 5 gallon batches, it probably won't matter much (I'm happy with the performance on my rig) and it'll save a few dollars in parts. If you're aiming for 10 gallon batches down the road definitely consider going 1/2" now.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Yeah, that's exactly right. Have it go down to the bottom of the cooler from the bulkhead and then lay flat for a few inches. Put a cap on the end. Drill maybe 10 1/8" holes on the very bottom of the tube, 1/2" apart. Wrap coil of wire around the tube, then slip the braid on and clamp it to the tube at both ends.

The copper keeps the braid in position and siphons the very last bit of wort out. The coil of wire keeps the braid from laying flat on the tube, which would block a lot of the openings in the braid. Yet, it retains the very good filtration of the braid which is one advantage over typical single tube manifolds.

The only thing it doesn't really do well is fly sparging.
Cool. I currently just use an empty braid. it's worked so far but can be unnerving when stirring with my paint stirrer and drill Maybe I'll try this sometime.
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