[Version 2 Release] RaspberryPints - Digital Taplist Solution

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skemp45

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Location
Phoenix, AZ
(Current Version)
Hot Fix 2.0.1

Hello all,
:mug:
This is the official thread for the Version 2 release of RaspberryPints the Free Digital Taplist.

Below are the links to the first thread about creating this program and the second link is a link to the first (V1) release thread.

First Thread
Version 1 Release Thread

What is RaspberryPints?

RaspberryPints (or RPints) is a digital upgrade to the conventional chalkboard taplist, created just for the home brewer. Display your current beers on tap with a sleek, digital presentation. Manage your beers, recipes, kegs, and taps with our built-in tracking system.


Why should I choose RaspberryPints over the competition?

We've purpose built RPints from the ground up to run on minimalist hardware, some of which you probably already own. We include a simple, intuitive administrative interface to allow for easy management of everything behind-the-scenes. Most importantly, we'll provide you with all the software code, images and instructions you need, free of charge -- we don't know of any comparable free alternatives!


How much does the hardware cost?

The core hardware consists of a Raspberry Pi, an ARM GNU/Linux mini computer, which usually costs about $40 (incl shipping). You'll also need a video display (PC monitor or TV), a video cable, a micro USB charger, wireless a keyboard/mouse with unified receiver, a USB Wi-Fi adapter, an SD card and an SD card reader. Starting from scratch, most users will spend less than $100 for everything.(On a non flow meter setup)


What skills are required and how long does setup take?

Installation couldn't be simpler, requiring only basic computer skills. Your ability to complete the build is dependent entirely on your ability to follow step-by-step instructions and enter provided commands. An entire build, install and configuration will take less than one day.


How do I get started?

Visit the official website at http://www.raspberrypints.com/!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You guys rock!! I am in SO over my head on this and loving every minute. Version 1 rocking along and flow meters on the way. Last soldering I did was repairing stained glass so this ought to be a riot. Keep the photos and simple explanations coming!
 
I understand that V2 was developed using an Alamode, however, will it work on an Uno? The reason i ask is i am considering using BrewPi (for temp control) and Raspberry Pints on the same Pi and i would like to simplify the Arduino portion.

Nevermind. I just read through the last few pages of the old thread and found the answer.
 
Just finishing up the walkthrough on doing just that ;)

Mr+burns+frog_0797d1_3229307.jpg


Cheers! ;)
 
I've had the taplist running well for a while and love it. Thanks guys. I also bought the flow meters when the project first began.

The alamode is on order. I'd love to also order a case for the pi and alamode combo, as well as any plugs, jacks, or wire that I will need to get v2 running as soon as it is released. What would I need to hook this up, other than the board and some solder?
 
Ok, moving this question here. What type of enclosure is everybody using to hold the alamode and the rpi? Im thinking about pulling mine off the tv, mounting it w/ the alamode in an enclosure and using XLR plugs for the flow meters

Also, is everyone mounting the alamode directly to the pi, or using a cable to connect?

Thanks!
 
Ok, moving this question here. What type of enclosure is everybody using to hold the alamode and the rpi? Im thinking about pulling mine off the tv, mounting it w/ the alamode in an enclosure and using XLR plugs for the flow meters

Also, is everyone mounting the alamode directly to the pi, or using a cable to connect?

Thanks!

Directly to the pi. At the moment it's just sitting on top of my keezer in a jumble of wires.

Eventually I'm going to build a custom box for the monitor and pi to live in. (I'm using an old laptop monitor)
 
Ok, moving this question here. What type of enclosure is everybody using to hold the alamode and the rpi? Im thinking about pulling mine off the tv, mounting it w/ the alamode in an enclosure and using XLR plugs for the flow meters

Also, is everyone mounting the alamode directly to the pi, or using a cable to connect?

Thanks!

You can make a sweet case just go to radioshack or online and get a project box and mount it all up in there into its own little counseled box of sexiness ;)
 
Hey everyone, We are thinking about getting a little shirt buy together for anyone who might be interested. As this is a open source project and we make $0 off of any of this we cant buy a bunch and then sell them so we will post here for anyone interested in getting one of these. just pm me if you are interested. If we can get 15+ the shirts will only be $30 each and that is including shipping.

shirtback.png


backshirt.png
 
I ordered my alamode on the 15th. I'm hoping it will be here shortly. I should have everything else by the weekend. I've had V1 since the beginning, and was able to get it set up pretty easily with the instructions. Software isn't my problem.

The one thing I've never done before is solder circuit boards. I've done plumbing, but that's a whole different kind of soldering. I see that some soldering is required to get the alamode set up. Anyone have any suggestions? I've been checking out youtube videos on soldering boards, and even bought a kit today to practice on. I guess my big concern is how bad can I screw up the board if I do it wrong?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My neighbor is doing this, too, and has a friend that can do it, but I'd like to learn. That's half the fun. The other half is the DIY. Some of my favorite brew pieces are DIY.

Thanks all.
 
Fine gauge rosin core solder - a millimeter in diameter or finer (I used .5mm for my AlaModes) and a good hot iron with a fine tip would be a good start.

Grab a kitchen sponge, get it wet, give it a good squeeze, lay it flat on a small plate and keep that near your iron. Use it to swipe the iron tip clean before starting a new joint or series of joints.

Solder the joints on the side of the board opposite the component body. On an AlaMode that means all of the joints except for the GPIO header will be soldered on the "back" side of the board. Place your iron so it contacts the component lead (in our case, they're all connectors) and the through-hole barrel, then touch the solder wire so you contact the component pin and the through-hole barrel on the side opposite the iron. Once the solder starts melting allow it to flow and fill the barrel before removing the wire and the iron and moving to the next pin. You should end up with a shallow cone of solder around the pin.

The trickiest joints on an AlaMode for noobs will be the GPIO header, as you have those long pins on the solder side of the board that you don't want to get solder up high on. Work slowly, keep the iron and solder wire tips at board level, and if you're a righty, work from left to right with the iron in your right hand (flip those around for lefties) and put the iron tip on the right side of the base of the pin and apply the solder wire to the left.

I would populate at least the connectors shown above, and in fact one may want to go ahead and install the two 1x6 headers next to the 1x6 analog pin set (in the first picture, those are at the bottom-right corner) as one will provide a ground pin per analog pin and the other will provide three 5V pins (and three 3.3V pins). Those added grounds and 5V pins would be usable for flow-meters, so I'm going to be soldering those in...

Cheers!

[edit] Also, if you ever want to stick a shield on top of the AlaMode (eg: the Centipede module that pops up in the R'Pints site occasionally, or even a relay module or something more obscure) you'll want to install the four female x1 socket headers as shown in the first picture instead of using x1 pin headers in any of those locations...

alamode_assembly_01.jpg


alamode_assembly_02.jpg
 
I just finished soldering my GPIO pin on my Alamode about ten minutes ago. The way I did it was plugged in the loose header pin to the RPi, then slid the alamode over it to hold everything nice and level. I soldered the first pin, then the last pin to hold everything in alignment, then removed it from the pi and finished up the rest of the joints on the workbench. With that being said, I'm using an adjustable weller soldering station so I could dial the heat down a bit, and I'm also using very thin rosin core solder. Not sure of its diameter, the label has worn off. I also use an old cleaned out baby food jar that I keep one of those copper dish-scrubbers in. Costs about a dollar, and works great to keep your solder tip clean. After you solder a few pins, stab the soldering iron into the scrubber a couple times and it will remove the excess solder. The way I did it was to hold the soldering iron against the pin on the header, and hold the solder on the opposite side of the pin, down at the intersection of the board and the pin. The solder will melt after a couple seconds, and it will flow right where you want it. Not too much though! You don't want to accidentally bridge the pins together. You'll have to clean up the solder and start again. Have confidence cause it really isn't that difficult. My only suggestion is that if you don't have a low-wattage soldering iron, get one. Preferably an adjustable one. It's a solid investment and it will last you a lifetime.
 
Excited for this, have had my alamode soldered up and ready to go for awhile. Looking forward to getting the flow meters hooked up.
 
Version 2 is being put thru the wringer this weekend. It seems most of the issues have been ironed out (which is a good thing).

Good things planned for the future!
 
i know it's been asked before but i don't recall a response. does anyone know of any cases available that fit the rasPi with an alaMode attached? not so interested in a diy job from the shack unless it's the only option.
 
I have a two day window where I actually have an empty keg - the next batch is cold-crashing and will be ready to keg Sunday - so I took advantage to set up a flow-meter test and sanitation station.

Said keg filled with iodophor, a 12 foot run of 3/16" ID Bevlex-200 cut right in the middle, a beer qd on one end, a picnic tap on the other, and a meter in the middle. Hooked up an ancient bench supply set for 5VDC, connected one of my 'scopes to the data line and ground, let the CO2 pressure stabilize, then opened the tap to the limit and let the 'scope auto-trigger 'til the frequency stabilized, then hit the Hold button.

All seven meters tested within 1 hz.
I'm impressed.

This is also the first time I've used John Guest push-to-connect fittings. Doubly impressed.

Fwiw, a few of the JG coupler came festooned with various marking (direction, meter number, etc) but with some denatured alcohol on a paper towel the remains are barely visible.

Gotta harvest the Centennial tomorrow, but I'm hoping to get the meters and wiring installed this weekend and have the week to review the upgrade process...

Cheers!

flow_meter_testing.jpg
 
Looking to redo my lines, wondering what connectors and lines you all use with the flow meters?
 
Looking to redo my lines, wondering what connectors and lines you all use with the flow meters?

If you use Bevlex-200 3/16" ID lines, you can use these. That's what is pictured in my test setup and the way I'll hook up my keezer.

If you use Bev Seal Ultra Series 235 1/5" ID lines, you can use these. I wouldn't think twice about using these versus a barbed adapter with that line...

Cheers!
 
The trickiest joints on an AlaMode for noobs will be the GPIO header, as you have those long pins on the solder side of the board that you don't want to get solder up high on.

I would populate at least the connectors shown above, and in fact one may want to go ahead and install the two 1x6 headers next to the 1x6 analog pin set (in the first picture, those are at the bottom-right corner) as one will provide a ground pin per analog pin and the other will provide three 5V pins (and three 3.3V pins). Those added grounds and 5V pins would be usable for flow-meters, so I'm going to be soldering those in...

[edit] Also, if you ever want to stick a shield on top of the AlaMode (eg: the Centipede module that pops up in the R'Pints site occasionally, or even a relay module or something more obscure) you'll want to install the four female x1 socket headers as shown in the first picture instead of using x1 pin headers in any of those locations...

I got my alamode today. In looking at the pictures you posted, I have the 4 black headers for the top and bottom right of the picture. I noticed you also had a bunch in the middle, I think in the Servo holes? Are those needed for this? And if so, any idea where to buy those? On the plus side, mine came with the GPIO header already soldered on! Bonus!
 
I got my alamode today. In looking at the pictures you posted, I have the 4 black headers for the top and bottom right of the picture. I noticed you also had a bunch in the middle, I think in the Servo holes? Are those needed for this? And if so, any idea where to buy those? On the plus side, mine came with the GPIO header already soldered on! Bonus!

Most of those connectors came with the AlaMode kit, the rest are from my stock.

Upon further review it appears that R'Pints will only use the digital IO pins, so none of the analog or servo ports need to be populated for this project. That said, depending on how many meters one will use and how they'll be connected the extra pins on power and ground connections may be helpful...

Cheers!
 
Most of those connectors came with the AlaMode kit, the rest are from my stock.

Upon further review it appears that R'Pints will only use the digital IO pins, so none of the analog or servo ports need to be populated for this project. That said, depending on how many meters one will use and how they'll be connected the extra pins on power and ground connections may be helpful...

Cheers!

Great! Thanks for the fast reply. And I have 4 taps. I really do appreciate all the help.
 
For those who have been running RaspberryPints v1.0.3 (or earlier even) that are also running BrewPi and that are planning on doing an upgrade to V2, be aware that Step 11 of the current upgrade instructions has the user delete the entire contents of /var/www.

That happens to be the same place that BrewPi builds fully half its footprint.

[I posted a Github request that the 'Pints folks consider an alternative to using a tactical nuclear weapon during a package install, but it looks like that post vaporized overnight]

Cheers!
 

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