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Old 12-29-2012, 06:47 PM   #11
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I didn't like the "light-switch" option either so I took some ideas from the Electric Brewery website and built this junction box. It was pretty easy to put together.
Thanks! I ended up wiring the switches to control an outlet. I wanted to avoid cutting the plug end off the pump cord.

In other news, I found 1/4" needle valves and am going to run 1/4" aluminum lines from the valves to the burners. Now I just need the 90 degree orifices like you found.

Any response to my questions a few posts previous?
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:12 PM   #12
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You are going to have a problem with the 1/4" line as it will only give you about 40K BTU due to the size. You really need to keep it 1/2" to get the max out of your banjo burner, which is 100k BTU at high pressure. The 1/2" ball valve will give you plenty adjustability. The link below will show you the BTU delivered for various sizes and lengths.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pr...ing-d_827.html

Here is my set up.

13-burners.jpg

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Old 12-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #13
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You are going to have a problem with the 1/4" line as it will only give you about 40K BTU due to the size. You really need to keep it 1/2" to get the max out of your banjo burner, which is 100k BTU at high pressure. The 1/2" ball valve will give you plenty adjustability.
So you use 1/2" all the way to the orifice? I would like to keep the needle valve, is its inclusion going to restrict everything down the line after it? FWIW, I am going to run low pressure so I can eventually step up to honeywell valves. From what I have read the regulator determines your btus, but does dropping down to 1/4" for 10" line restrict the flow that much that it will throw everything off?
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:43 AM   #14
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The banjos are rated at 100K BTU and with a 1/4" line your only going to get about 40K BTU out of the burners. I really don't see a need for the needle valve. I don't have a Honeywell gas valve on my boil kettle. I just use the 1/2" ball valve to control the gas flow and never have an issue.

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Old 12-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #15
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I think I would prefer to have the fine control of a needle valve, especially on my mash. I can see how a ball valve for the BK is sufficient though.

Also, I see there is some debate over the effect of 1/4" line in other threads. Anyone else who uses 1/4" in a propane setup have any comments? Is 40-60k BTUs enough for HLT & MT? Do I need more for the BK?

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Old 12-30-2012, 05:02 PM   #16
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Line size isn't a debatable issue. It's simple physics. If you check out the link in my original reply it shows you the effect of line size and length. I you can live with 40K BTU then you will be fine. I wouldn't see it as a problem on the MLT, but it will take a long time to get the HLT up to strike temp.

Anyway, good luck and happy brewing!

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Old 12-30-2012, 06:43 PM   #17
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Line size isn't a debatable issue. It's simple physics. If you check out the link in my original reply it shows you the effect of line size and length. I you can live with 40K BTU then you will be fine. I wouldn't see it as a problem on the MLT, but it will take a long time to get the HLT up to strike temp.

Anyway, good luck and happy brewing!
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate it, I think I go back to high pressure for now. I understand physics, wasn't trying to debate that, just any effects the size has on usability of other stands. I was less concerned when I learned most regulator hoses feeding the whole set up only have an inner diameter of 1/4" and many stand-builders like onehoppyguy routinely throw in 1/4" needle valves on their set ups.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:48 PM   #18
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http://norfolk.craigslist.org/for/3490516422.html

Not to step on the propane talk but I was looking for the same. Stuff valves and so on and look what I came across .
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:00 PM   #19
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http://norfolk.craigslist.org/for/3490516422.html

Not to step on the propane talk but I was looking for the same. Stuff valves and so on and look what I came across .
That's a brewstand alright.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #20
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I'm about to build a single tier brew system, it will be fired with propane. Am I correct in thinking that gas grill propane bottles are high pressure and that the electronic gas valves are generally low pressure, or does it have nothing to do with the container and all about the regulator?

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