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ColoHox 12-27-2012 06:07 PM

Valves and connections for propane on single tier
 
I have hunted through most of the old threads regarding propane plumbing on a single tier stand, and am left with just a few questions:

I would like the plumbing to follow this flow (if possible):

LP tank-->30PSI reg-->1/2" black iron pipe-->1/2" ball valve-->1/2"black iron pipe-->gas needle valve-->yellow flexible gas line-->burner

I want to include the ball valve as on/off control and the needle valve for burner control (until I can afford honeywell gas valves and automation).

Can I include both ball valve and needle for now? Once I automate, I will remove the needle valve, attach the honeywell and use flexible line to the burner.

Can the flexible gas line be that close to the burner (11" banjo)?

Automation is a pricey jump, so I want to be able to brew on my stand a few times while I save up.

Thanks in advance for any comments, I'm sure I will have more questions as I go.

bucfanmike 12-27-2012 06:14 PM

that should work fine. Really no need for the ball valve, as the needle valve will accomplish the same thing. Even once you add honeywells, the needle valves are still good to have. Once you switch to automation though you will have to change out the regulator. You will need to go to a low pressure (11" water column) and then either switch the orifice in your burner to a low pressure one, or drill out the current to the correct size.

ColoHox 12-27-2012 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucfanmike (Post 4719696)
Once you switch to automation though you will have to change out the regulator. You will need to go to a low pressure (11" water column) and then either switch the orifice in your burner to a low pressure one, or drill out the current to the correct size.

Could I just start with low pressure now? Would that affect any of my fittings or pipe diameters other than the burner orifice?

bucfanmike 12-27-2012 09:08 PM

yes. the only difference in high pressure and low pressure banjos is the orifice size. There are lots of threads about how to drill out the high pressure orifice. Without looking I believe it to be about 3/32, but that is just off the top of my head. You will want a good regulator, like a marshall 290, something with a high btu rating. careful also with the actual connector that you use on the propane tank, different color ones have different flow regulators in them. Im not sure which color is which, but best to find the pol fittings that dont have restrictions built in.

352brewery 12-27-2012 10:10 PM

I just finished my single tier build and went through the exact same steps. I ended up using stainless steel pipe rather than black iron. My old setup rusted like crazy. I also went with Apollo brass ball valves and put needle values after those for fine control. I have a 30 psi setup too. I used 18" stainless flex tube to hook up my banjo burners.

I posted a YouTube video of the build if you are interested.

ColoHox 12-27-2012 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 352brewery (Post 4720520)
I just finished my single tier build and went through the exact same steps. I ended up using stainless steel pipe rather than black iron. My old setup rusted like crazy. I also went with Apollo brass ball valves and put needle values after those for fine control. I have a 30 psi setup too. I used 18" stainless flex tube to hook up my banjo burners.

I posted a YouTube video of the build if you are interested.

Wow, how perfect! Your stand looks great, too.

Where did you get the needle valves? Are they 1/2" to 3/8" reducing or is there an extra reducer fit in somewhere?

Are you able to control temps pretty well off those needles? Are the gas valves on the rear of the stand inconvenient?

Ill watch your other videos to answer the rest of my questions. Thanks!

ColoHox 12-27-2012 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucfanmike (Post 4720337)
yes. the only difference in high pressure and low pressure banjos is the orifice size. There are lots of threads about how to drill out the high pressure orifice. Without looking I believe it to be about 3/32, but that is just off the top of my head. You will want a good regulator, like a marshall 290, something with a high btu rating. careful also with the actual connector that you use on the propane tank, different color ones have different flow regulators in them. Im not sure which color is which, but best to find the pol fittings that dont have restrictions built in.

Great. I'll probably go low pressure then. Dedicated low pressure regulator or adjustable for convenience?

bucfanmike 12-28-2012 01:55 AM

dedicated low pressure if you are considering adding honeywell valves anytime in the future. They need a set 11" water column pressure.

ColoHox 12-28-2012 01:29 PM

352brewery, can you post some info about your pump controller box? I like yours better than light switches.

352brewery 12-29-2012 12:27 PM

I didn't like the "light-switch" option either so I took some ideas from the Electric Brewery website and built this junction box. It was pretty easy to put together.

Here's the list of materials and where you can get them online.

The box does not have any holes but you can drill it easily with a 7/8 hole saw.


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