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09-20-2012, 08:50 PM
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#81
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntington Beach ☼
Posts: 1,341
Liked 46 Times on 34 Posts Likes Given: 25
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I don't see where you'd need to put spacers in there. I'd just put a layer of backer board over the existing sheetrock and put the SS back on top of that. You could then either get an SS edging or just fill the edge of the backer board with plaster and paint the elevated edge. It looks like your hood already has an inside lip on the back wall, so that would just bring the back SS panel out even or close to the hood edge.
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09-20-2012, 09:20 PM
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#82
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Butte, MT
Posts: 173
Liked 27 Times on 19 Posts Likes Given: 46
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Amazing setup. Really impressive.
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09-20-2012, 09:44 PM
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#83
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 429
Liked 45 Times on 33 Posts Likes Given: 14
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Thanks, Muddy (and others), it's rewarding to hear this feedback after all the hard work.
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09-20-2012, 09:56 PM
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#84
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 429
Liked 45 Times on 33 Posts Likes Given: 14
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Regarding the backing board, I've seen a lot of mixed information about whether or not it needs a spacer. I believe you two are probably right that I don't really *need* the gap, but it does make sense that it should be there. I believe code requires a wood stove to have a 1" spacer between the wall and the backer board, and then a non flammable surface material.
Currently the stainless backing on the wall underlaps the hood by a few inches, but to Jon's point, I could cut the height down so it sits flush with the bottom of the hood, and bump it out a bit for the backer.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm planning to do another round of taping and mudding the drywall next week in preperation for painting, so I'll look to address this then. I'll pickup the backing board and do a hand heat test with it next to the burner after a while to answer the gap/no gap question.
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09-21-2012, 01:33 AM
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#85
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: frederick, md
Posts: 207
Liked 6 Times on 5 Posts
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I see no reason to worry about redoing the drywall. I work in construction and have done a few restaurants. The one thing that would happen is double layer 5/8" drywall. Which does create a 1 hour rated wall. But that was also bc they were not standalone places so needed the break between the different stores. But this stainless would be applied straight to the drywall!! I know y risk it is a big deal. But also radiant heat has to be through the roof to penetrate the stainless and drywall to combust the wood framing behind it. And u said u used type x. Id say dont sweat it and enjoy u sweet setup!! Planning my next house build i def have a brewery in thought as a built in!!!
Cheers!
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09-21-2012, 03:45 AM
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#86
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chicopee, MA
Posts: 1
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Wow! That about sums it up!
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09-21-2012, 03:37 PM
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#87
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 429
Liked 45 Times on 33 Posts Likes Given: 14
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dcarroll86, I'll admit you are telling me what I want to hear. You are probably right, but I can't help but consider the risks. The wall here is a 1hr rated firewall (per code as it is 3ft from our property line) with two layers of type X, but only one of those layers is on the inside. If I recall my wall from the inside out is: 26gauge Stainless Steel, 5/8" TypeX, Studs and R21 insulation, 5/8" TypeX, plywood, and then siding.
My concern is the impact the heat will have on the in-wall materials, which include quite a bit of plumbing and electrical right there. I'm leaning towards slapping some backing board up there as JonW suggested. I figure for a couple of hours work, I may save myself years of uncertainty. My contractor will be coming by for a visit tomorrow though, so I'll fire up the burners for a bit and get his opinion on things.
Thanks again for all your thoughts! I should have started this thread and been picking your brains earlier. 
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09-21-2012, 04:30 PM
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#88
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sunny Puget Sound
Posts: 150
Liked 12 Times on 9 Posts Likes Given: 2
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I helped a friend build a small cabin and behind the wood stove we put hardy backer and a sheet of stainless. The next day the wood stove was cookin and we had to pull some siding off to repair a pluming leak for the outside faucet. The back side of the sheetrock was maybe ten degrees warmed that sheetrock down the wall away from the wood stove and the stainless behind the stove was so hot you couldn't keep your hand on it. If you added backer under the stainless you are going to be more than good to go
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09-21-2012, 05:15 PM
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#89
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 429
Liked 45 Times on 33 Posts Likes Given: 14
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Thanks, earlchagnon, and welcome to the forums!
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09-21-2012, 08:22 PM
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#90
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Swollen Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 2,501
Liked 251 Times on 209 Posts Likes Given: 107
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i'm not jealous. i'm not angry. i'm... i don't know what i am. what is beyond awe? yeah, that's what i'm feeling.
beyond sweet. amazing work. wow!
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