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03-27-2009, 01:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,730
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Two Tier System Build
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03-27-2009, 01:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,620
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Where did ya find the 1500W low density elements? Or is that a 6000W 240VAC element running on 120VAC?
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03-27-2009, 01:47 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Personal Website, All Grain Primer, Keg Polishing, etc... | Youtube Channel
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03-27-2009, 01:47 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,620
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Any reason not to make it all electric since you are already setting up the electric RIMS?
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03-27-2009, 02:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
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Good question. I have been read some posts here that say I should regulate at the output and read some posts that say I should regulate at the input. I was hoping the more experienced members like yourself would chime in and help me decide which way is correct.
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03-27-2009, 02:05 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
I'm not a RIMS exchanger guru so I thought I would ask, is it best to regulate the element based on the output of the exchanger, not the input. No?
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You are exactly right, you want to measure the temp. of the output only... the input is irrelevent. The input could be 145F... while the output is 160F... if your target is 155F, you can see the problem. The PID needs to meausure the output of the heater, not the input.
You always want to measure what you are doing, not what you are about to do...
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03-27-2009, 02:14 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol
Any reason not to make it all electric since you are already setting up the electric RIMS?
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Another good question. I would have loved to go all electric but my service in the house is only 125 amp. With the electric stove, electric dryer, central air etc. I don't want to push it. I figure another 12.5 amps wouldn't be too bad but if I ran a couple of 3000 watt elements at the same time as some of the higher draw appliances, I would be tempting fate especially during the summer months.
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03-27-2009, 02:16 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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Tell me about it... I have a 100amp service. A 200amp upgrade is in my future but I HATE paying contractors to do stuff I can do myself (conceptually).
__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Personal Website, All Grain Primer, Keg Polishing, etc... | Youtube Channel
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03-27-2009, 02:17 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol
You are exactly right, you want to measure the temp. of the output only... the input is irrelevent. The input could be 145F... while the output is 160F... if your target is 155F, you can see the problem. The PID needs to meausure the output of the heater, not the input.
You always want to measure what you are doing, not what you are about to do...
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Thanks gents. It is easy to turn it around and make the change now before the brewery is built.
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