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02-05-2009, 11:43 AM
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#11
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i might ditch the cone idea because i want to make this for very few $.
what if i just git it in half and use the rounded ends as the "cones"
any ideas on how effective it would be. i am not too concerned with harvesting yeast. but i would like a racking valve
then for the tops i can just make a flat lid
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02-05-2009, 06:08 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp9576
i might ditch the cone idea because i want to make this for very few $.
what if i just git it in half and use the rounded ends as the "cones"
any ideas on how effective it would be. i am not too concerned with harvesting yeast. but i would like a racking valve
then for the tops i can just make a flat lid
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Just remember that you won't really have a conical. The idea is to be able to EFFECTIVELY rack the yeast from the bottom dump valve. It would still work pretty well.
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02-05-2009, 06:31 PM
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#13
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well...since i really wont need anything more than 10 gallons i'll cut it in half. i'll use one half for the fermenter i was talking about making with a flat lid and rounded bottom. and i'll save the other half for a conical later if i decide i need one.
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02-06-2009, 12:28 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp9576
well...since i really wont need anything more than 10 gallons i'll cut it in half. i'll use one half for the fermenter i was talking about making with a flat lid and rounded bottom. and i'll save the other half for a conical later if i decide i need one.
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Don't cut yourself short (no pun intended) here stating only 10 gallons that I believe would be your maximum batch size. You'll need the extra space above the liquid level your working with for the boil off loss as well foam.
What I was thinking with the added cones you gained more volume for a pair of pefect conical fermenters, this is a high cost item in you equipment collection.
I would add the cones plus look around for a stainless ring that would slip onto the tank, machined and welded with a "O" ring pocket machined on top for the lid to seal against. Add a stainless ring that slides up the body stopping against this added on welded ring with a hoop of app 3" wide out of flat 1/4"SS stock. Weld a 3/4-13 SS rod coupling to the side of this hoop. Use 3/4"-13 ss all thread with a knob. The all thread will apply pressure on a 1/4" thick by 4" diameter disk with a 3/4" washer tack welded as a centering guide for the threaded rod to press against when you tighern down on the lid preventing a high pressure small contact point on the cover pressing in the center. Bottom line you have something special to start with, run with it and make something good out of it, pots and kegs are common items you can get anywhere. A shame to waste this tank but then again it's yours not mine. To me this would be a $1,800 savings not counting materials vs two 14 gallon commercially built frementers. I'll shut up now.
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Last edited by BrewBeemer; 02-06-2009 at 12:39 AM.
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02-06-2009, 12:37 AM
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#15
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great information there, but i am afraid i didnt understand most of it.
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02-06-2009, 12:38 AM
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#16
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if i were to use half for a rounded bottom fermenter and save the other half for a future conical they would be around 12.5 gallons each, plus the volume of the rounded end. probably another gallon or so.
so is 13.5 gallons enough room for a 10 gallon batch?
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02-06-2009, 12:45 AM
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#17
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I must see things in a different way and save things like a special item for a special job.
Are you in a scrap salvage yard business? If so what is the weight of that 25 gallon tank after it has been stripped clean? How much a pound for scrap 316 stainless in your area?
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02-06-2009, 01:08 AM
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#18
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I do 5 gallon batches in a 6.5 glass fermenter..... so 10 gals in a 13 + gallon fermenter would seem to work.
I know you guys supply gas - do you do your own stainless welding ?
I'm toying with the idea of doing larger fermentations, because I've got the ability to boil 10+ gallons now, but I'm thinking it's probably more reasonable to just split larger batches into 5 gallon increments & then I can experiment with different yeasts or temperatures & get some variety.
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02-06-2009, 01:10 AM
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#19
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If you use the ID of 13.750" for 1/8" wall thickness ( a guess of the tanks thickness) of that tank you have 148.48 sq/inch of surface area. At 231 cu/inch a gallon the level will rise 1.555" per gallon added. It would work on what you want that tank to become in you system but any exta added liquids will get you close to the brim rather quickly vs a 16" diameter 15.5 keg.
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02-06-2009, 01:50 AM
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#20
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brewbeemer--
i am in the compressed gas business, we had a bunch of these laying around so i cut it open and saw the stainless tank inside and ideas started flowing.
its just under 75 lbs when its all cut away, and the price of scrap is not worth very much at all. the bottom dropped out about a month ago.
XXguy
we do sell the gas, but i am not a very good welder. we supply a bunch of local welders some of who specialize in stainless so i am now in the process of finding out if one of these guys can make some nice cuts and welds for me.
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