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Toneus 01-27-2012 05:52 PM

Building the Base
 
3 Attachment(s)

Let me start by saying that I skipped right past the 7,10,and 13 cu ft sizes. I figure if I'm going to put the effort into this that I think I will, I don't want to out grow it or wish I had gone bigger down the road.

For this build, I'm uisng a new 15 cu ft Frigidaire that I bought at discount ($315+tax) from a local Ding and Dent appliance store. energy Guide estimated yearly opertaing cost for this unit as a freezer $38.

Considerations for building the base
- Sized to allow for cooling gaps all around the front and sides
- Larger wheels (roll-ability on carpet)
- Impact on overall height (targeting 42")
- Flat solid base for cabinet and skirt mounting
- Rear lip for wall standoff and electrical mounting options
- Drain access
- Torsional effect of supporting the lid resting on the surround
- Keep the weight down. Don't over build it

I thought about the framing for a long time, probably too long. Because of the 48" width of the freezer, I was concerned about the span and support of the freezer and additional weight of the build. I also wanted to proved more support than just the 4 bottom feet would provide alone.

I built the base with 4 inch swivel casters through bolted with T-Nuts onto 2x6 runners. The base is 3/4 cabinet grade ply (cheeper at HD than builder grade). I cut recessed holes for the freezer feet to provide full support for the floor of the freezer. the feet are directly supported by the 2x6's. I kept the 2x6's all the way to the sides to help support the surround, and I didn't want a smaller footprint for fear of it topling over. I decided against using a furniture dolly framing structure because that would have put me well above my 42" target.

Attachment 45204

Attachment 45205

Attachment 45206

I'm pretty happy with the base, I do have a little sag in the middle, but I don't know if that is a factor a warped 2x6, or lack of lateral support. I'm going to keep an eye on it for now. I expect that after adding the structure of the surround and the skirt combined with the weight of the top, it all might even out. I can always go back and add a cross member and even a middle caster.

Next step: The Top

Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 05:52 PM

Building the Base
 
3 Attachment(s)

Let me start by saying that I skipped right past the 7,10,and 13 cu ft sizes. I figure if I'm going to put the effort into this that I think I will, I don't want to out grow it or wish I had gone bigger down the road.

For this build, I'm uisng a new 15 cu ft Frigidaire that I bought at discount ($315+tax) from a local Ding and Dent appliance store. energy Guide estimated yearly opertaing cost for this unit as a freezer $38.

Considerations for building the base
- Sized to allow for cooling gaps all around the front and sides
- Larger wheels (roll-ability on carpet)
- Impact on overall height (targeting 42")
- Flat solid base for cabinet and skirt mounting
- Rear lip for wall standoff and electrical mounting options
- Drain access
- Torsional effect of supporting the lid resting on the surround
- Keep the weight down. Don't over build it

I thought about the framing for a long time, probably too long. Because of the 48" width of the freezer, I was concerned about the span and support of the freezer and additional weight of the build. I also wanted to proved more support than just the 4 bottom feet would provide alone.

I built the base with 4 inch swivel casters through bolted with T-Nuts onto 2x6 runners. The base is 3/4 cabinet grade ply (cheeper at HD than builder grade). I cut recessed holes for the freezer feet to provide full support for the floor of the freezer. the feet are directly supported by the 2x6's. I kept the 2x6's all the way to the sides to help support the surround, and I didn't want a smaller footprint for fear of it topling over. I decided against using a furniture dolly framing structure because that would have put me well above my 42" target.

Attachment 45204

Attachment 45205

Attachment 45206

I'm pretty happy with the base, I do have a little sag in the middle, but I don't know if that is a factor a warped 2x6, or lack of lateral support. I'm going to keep an eye on it for now. I expect that after adding the structure of the surround and the skirt combined with the weight of the top, it all might even out. I can always go back and add a cross member and even a middle caster.

Next step: The Top

Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 05:52 PM

Building the Base
 
3 Attachment(s)

Let me start by saying that I skipped right past the 7,10,and 13 cu ft sizes. I figure if I'm going to put the effort into this that I think I will, I don't want to out grow it or wish I had gone bigger down the road.

For this build, I'm uisng a new 15 cu ft Frigidaire that I bought at discount ($315+tax) from a local Ding and Dent appliance store. energy Guide estimated yearly opertaing cost for this unit as a freezer $38.

Considerations for building the base
- Sized to allow for cooling gaps all around the front and sides
- Larger wheels (roll-ability on carpet)
- Impact on overall height (targeting 42")
- Flat solid base for cabinet and skirt mounting
- Rear lip for wall standoff and electrical mounting options
- Drain access
- Torsional effect of supporting the lid resting on the surround
- Keep the weight down. Don't over build it

I thought about the framing for a long time, probably too long. Because of the 48" width of the freezer, I was concerned about the span and support of the freezer and additional weight of the build. I also wanted to proved more support than just the 4 bottom feet would provide alone.

I built the base with 4 inch swivel casters through bolted with T-Nuts onto 2x6 runners. The base is 3/4 cabinet grade ply (cheeper at HD than builder grade). I cut recessed holes for the freezer feet to provide full support for the floor of the freezer. the feet are directly supported by the 2x6's. I kept the 2x6's all the way to the sides to help support the surround, and I didn't want a smaller footprint for fear of it topling over. I decided against using a furniture dolly framing structure because that would have put me well above my 42" target.

Attachment 45204

Attachment 45205

Attachment 45206

I'm pretty happy with the base, I do have a little sag in the middle, but I don't know if that is a factor a warped 2x6, or lack of lateral support. I'm going to keep an eye on it for now. I expect that after adding the structure of the surround and the skirt combined with the weight of the top, it all might even out. I can always go back and add a cross member and even a middle caster.

Next step: The Top

Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 08:20 PM

Beginning the Top
 
4 Attachment(s)

After building the base, I figured the Top would be a good next step as it will allow me to get the proper height figured out for the surround.

Considerations for building the Top
- Get it 100% Square because the whole top will be based on it
- Cutout to accommodate the existing lid handle
- Determine the size with a good overlap to fit over the surround
- Preserve the existing handle
- Retain access to the lock keyhole

The hardest part of building this portion of the top was cutting out a pocket for the existing handle. I started out with a router, but then shifted to a sanding drum attached to my electric drill. I was able to sand and shape the cutout to the countour of the handle. In the end it came out great, but there was a lot of test and reshaping along the way.

Attachment 45223

You can see the various layers in the plywood in the picture of the cutout.

Attachment 45224

It was a surprise to me that the 2" edging I added actually created a pocket that the lip of the factory handle went into perfectly. This means that lifting on the top is actually pulling on the handle itself.

Attachment 45225

It is my plan to secure the top to the lid by putting wooden supports into the lid itself. These combined with the guide strips and the handle pocket should secure the top to the lid nicely.

Attachment 45226


Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 08:20 PM

Beginning the Top
 
4 Attachment(s)

After building the base, I figured the Top would be a good next step as it will allow me to get the proper height figured out for the surround.

Considerations for building the Top
- Get it 100% Square because the whole top will be based on it
- Cutout to accommodate the existing lid handle
- Determine the size with a good overlap to fit over the surround
- Preserve the existing handle
- Retain access to the lock keyhole

The hardest part of building this portion of the top was cutting out a pocket for the existing handle. I started out with a router, but then shifted to a sanding drum attached to my electric drill. I was able to sand and shape the cutout to the countour of the handle. In the end it came out great, but there was a lot of test and reshaping along the way.

Attachment 45223

You can see the various layers in the plywood in the picture of the cutout.

Attachment 45224

It was a surprise to me that the 2" edging I added actually created a pocket that the lip of the factory handle went into perfectly. This means that lifting on the top is actually pulling on the handle itself.

Attachment 45225

It is my plan to secure the top to the lid by putting wooden supports into the lid itself. These combined with the guide strips and the handle pocket should secure the top to the lid nicely.

Attachment 45226


Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 08:20 PM

Beginning the Top
 
4 Attachment(s)

After building the base, I figured the Top would be a good next step as it will allow me to get the proper height figured out for the surround.

Considerations for building the Top
- Get it 100% Square because the whole top will be based on it
- Cutout to accommodate the existing lid handle
- Determine the size with a good overlap to fit over the surround
- Preserve the existing handle
- Retain access to the lock keyhole

The hardest part of building this portion of the top was cutting out a pocket for the existing handle. I started out with a router, but then shifted to a sanding drum attached to my electric drill. I was able to sand and shape the cutout to the countour of the handle. In the end it came out great, but there was a lot of test and reshaping along the way.

Attachment 45223

You can see the various layers in the plywood in the picture of the cutout.

Attachment 45224

It was a surprise to me that the 2" edging I added actually created a pocket that the lip of the factory handle went into perfectly. This means that lifting on the top is actually pulling on the handle itself.

Attachment 45225

It is my plan to secure the top to the lid by putting wooden supports into the lid itself. These combined with the guide strips and the handle pocket should secure the top to the lid nicely.

Attachment 45226


Cheers!


Toneus 01-27-2012 08:20 PM

Beginning the Top
 
4 Attachment(s)

After building the base, I figured the Top would be a good next step as it will allow me to get the proper height figured out for the surround.

Considerations for building the Top
- Get it 100% Square because the whole top will be based on it
- Cutout to accommodate the existing lid handle
- Determine the size with a good overlap to fit over the surround
- Preserve the existing handle
- Retain access to the lock keyhole

The hardest part of building this portion of the top was cutting out a pocket for the existing handle. I started out with a router, but then shifted to a sanding drum attached to my electric drill. I was able to sand and shape the cutout to the countour of the handle. In the end it came out great, but there was a lot of test and reshaping along the way.

Attachment 45223

You can see the various layers in the plywood in the picture of the cutout.

Attachment 45224

It was a surprise to me that the 2" edging I added actually created a pocket that the lip of the factory handle went into perfectly. This means that lifting on the top is actually pulling on the handle itself.

Attachment 45225

It is my plan to secure the top to the lid by putting wooden supports into the lid itself. These combined with the guide strips and the handle pocket should secure the top to the lid nicely.

Attachment 45226


Cheers!


Toneus 01-29-2012 04:16 AM

Building the Coffin
 
5 Attachment(s)
Attachment 45393

Today was a day to make sawdust. After several hours of measuring which included adding and subtracting fractions, I finally made my first cuts to build the coffin. I was delayed when my best laid plans where off because I didn't leave enough room for the pipes, as they were too far aft. After moving everything forward, it all started to come together.

I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The cuts remained square, and the piece is quite strong. It will have to be to stand up to the thousands of tap handle pulls ahead.

I decided that the 30" drip tray was the right way to go. I'll be ordering one in the next couple of days. I'd be interested to know whether people buy trays with drains or no drains. I'm leaning towards one with a drain. I'll probably run it down to a gallon jug in the bottom of the freezer.

There is room for 2" foam insulation all around. I decided against the multiple boards bolted to the front. If I need additional bracing, I can easily add a piece of ply to the inside of the lower front wall. I'll just drill holes that will accept the ends of the shanks if required.

I'm still up in the air about how I want to close the top and rear panel. They are both set up with screws, everything else on the coffin is screwed and glued.

Now for the pictures!

Cheers!


Attachment 45394

Attachment 45395

Attachment 45396

Attachment 45397

Toneus 01-29-2012 04:16 AM

Building the Coffin
 
5 Attachment(s)
Attachment 45393

Today was a day to make sawdust. After several hours of measuring which included adding and subtracting fractions, I finally made my first cuts to build the coffin. I was delayed when my best laid plans where off because I didn't leave enough room for the pipes, as they were too far aft. After moving everything forward, it all started to come together.

I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The cuts remained square, and the piece is quite strong. It will have to be to stand up to the thousands of tap handle pulls ahead.

I decided that the 30" drip tray was the right way to go. I'll be ordering one in the next couple of days. I'd be interested to know whether people buy trays with drains or no drains. I'm leaning towards one with a drain. I'll probably run it down to a gallon jug in the bottom of the freezer.

There is room for 2" foam insulation all around. I decided against the multiple boards bolted to the front. If I need additional bracing, I can easily add a piece of ply to the inside of the lower front wall. I'll just drill holes that will accept the ends of the shanks if required.

I'm still up in the air about how I want to close the top and rear panel. They are both set up with screws, everything else on the coffin is screwed and glued.

Now for the pictures!

Cheers!


Attachment 45394

Attachment 45395

Attachment 45396

Attachment 45397

Toneus 01-29-2012 04:16 AM

Building the Coffin
 
5 Attachment(s)
Attachment 45393

Today was a day to make sawdust. After several hours of measuring which included adding and subtracting fractions, I finally made my first cuts to build the coffin. I was delayed when my best laid plans where off because I didn't leave enough room for the pipes, as they were too far aft. After moving everything forward, it all started to come together.

I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The cuts remained square, and the piece is quite strong. It will have to be to stand up to the thousands of tap handle pulls ahead.

I decided that the 30" drip tray was the right way to go. I'll be ordering one in the next couple of days. I'd be interested to know whether people buy trays with drains or no drains. I'm leaning towards one with a drain. I'll probably run it down to a gallon jug in the bottom of the freezer.

There is room for 2" foam insulation all around. I decided against the multiple boards bolted to the front. If I need additional bracing, I can easily add a piece of ply to the inside of the lower front wall. I'll just drill holes that will accept the ends of the shanks if required.

I'm still up in the air about how I want to close the top and rear panel. They are both set up with screws, everything else on the coffin is screwed and glued.

Now for the pictures!

Cheers!


Attachment 45394

Attachment 45395

Attachment 45396

Attachment 45397


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