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12-10-2012, 03:02 AM
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#31
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Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 1,197
Liked 46 Times on 39 Posts Likes Given: 17
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Maybe I was doing it wrong but I drilled one whole and it ate up 3 Harbor Freight step bits.
I tried low speed and high speed it just wouldn't go. I used heavy weight oil to lubricate as well. It seriously only cut to the next step of the bit when the keg got red hot.
I'm taking them back to HF to have them replaced. One hole and all 3 are FRIED!
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12-10-2012, 04:14 AM
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#32
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Vendor and Brewer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 20,672
Liked 463 Times on 327 Posts Likes Given: 9
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Definitely a technique issue. Your drill doesn't have enough torque or you're not using enough pressure. I've used a Chinese import step bit to drill a 7/8" hole in 1/4" thick stainless plate and still got 9 keg holes out of the bit.
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12-10-2012, 04:22 AM
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#33
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Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 1,197
Liked 46 Times on 39 Posts Likes Given: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
Definitely a technique issue. Your drill doesn't have enough torque or you're not using enough pressure. I've used a Chinese import step bit to drill a 7/8" hole in 1/4" thick stainless plate and still got 9 keg holes out of the bit.
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Definitely wasn't a pressure issue, I was pushing the bejeezus out of it.
Not sure about the torque. It is a corded Makita drill with a switch to make it a hammer drill and it is HIGH SPEED more than low speed.
What is the appropriate drill to use?
The issue I was having is the bit didn't seem to grab the steel in between the steps. For example, it would grab and rip through a layer then sit in between the two sizes (steps) and just spin freely. I found the best technique was to drill and get a bit to grab. Then switch to another step bit with a smaller increment, let that grab then switch back. It was almost as if the steps were to big because they wouldn't grab from step to step on the same bit.
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12-10-2012, 04:34 AM
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#34
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Vendor
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nor*Cal
Posts: 4,369
Liked 83 Times on 58 Posts Likes Given: 12
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Slow is the key with stainless!
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12-10-2012, 04:38 AM
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#35
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Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 1,197
Liked 46 Times on 39 Posts Likes Given: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybird
Slow is the key with stainless!
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I didn't get that memo!
I definitely wasn't going slow. After the first few efforts came up short I tried blasting through the hole.
A few times I was going so fast the bit would slip in the chuck.
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12-10-2012, 09:56 PM
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#36
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Vendor and Brewer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 20,672
Liked 463 Times on 327 Posts Likes Given: 9
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Going slow is important and that's why corded drills are usually the culprit. Most corded drills have very low torque at low speeds so when you're sitting at the proper speed, the drill stalls out. I don't even like seeing the bit turn one revolution without making a cut. Spinning it fast work hardens the stainless in 2 seconds and it doesn't matter how many more bits you buy or what brand they are at that point. Now it's time to get a conduit punch.
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Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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12-11-2012, 03:32 AM
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#37
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Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 1,197
Liked 46 Times on 39 Posts Likes Given: 17
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Conduit punch, or a different drill? I think I would use a different drill more!
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12-11-2012, 03:52 AM
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#38
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AHA Member
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 11,953
Liked 433 Times on 391 Posts Likes Given: 266
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I use an 18v DeWalt cordless hammerdrill for mine. I also set it in the LOW speed range (of three) which goes no faster than 500rpm. Even then, I've sometimes had an issue IF I went too fast (rpm and trying to do too many steps at a time). I've found that things go quick up to about 1/2" or maybe a step (or two) above that. Then you REALLY need to go slow and make sure you keep everything cool. I might even use my floor drill press for the next keggle I drill (goes down to 300rpm). Or just use the cordless drill at <1/2 speed in the low range.
For a conduit punch, the ones that use the hydraulic driver are stupid easy to make holes with. You just make a 1/2" hole, insert the punch after setting the shaft up on the driver. Pump, pump, pump, PING!! You have a nice 7/8" (or whatever size you need to make) hole.
Which to get depends on how many holes you see yourself needing to make over the long term. If you'll only use the punch a few times, then never again, get the drill. You could, also, get the punch, use it as you need then sell it to someone else (who needs it and doesn't want to get a brand new one). The ones that use a wrench to punch are cheaper than the hydraulic driven ones. I got that one mostly so that I'd never have an issue going through stainless (up to 3mm thick  ).
BTW, IME/IMO, the HF Ti coated bits are crap. But you should have gotten at least one hole per bit. Actually, you should have gotten at least one keggle drilling per bit.
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12-11-2012, 06:22 AM
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#39
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Vendor
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nor*Cal
Posts: 4,369
Liked 83 Times on 58 Posts Likes Given: 12
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Okay guys I am going to give up a little stainless secrete........Use vinegar for your carbide coolant when drilling stainless. It will keep it from burning the edge of the hole and keep the bit cooler... They will drill like butter.
Cheers
Jay
__________________
Need a false bottom for your Converted Keg, Kettle or Cooler???
Nor Cal Brewing Solutions, Reddings local homebrew store
(530)243-BEER and (530)221-WINE
Still have questions PM me here or hit the website.
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com
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12-11-2012, 06:51 PM
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#40
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Vendor and Brewer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 20,672
Liked 463 Times on 327 Posts Likes Given: 9
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I'll have to try that Jay. The truth is, ANY liquid coolant is better than none and I would even contend that proper pressure/speed is even more important than any coolant at all. I can easily drill ten 7/8 holes in a keg with these "crap" bits.
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Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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