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Old 03-15-2010, 04:48 PM   #11
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If you are just using the gas valves a 40 Va will work, the 75 Va was the norm for electric ignition systems where the modules pull greater amounts of current. Not knowing if there were going to be changes in the future I suggested the larger transformer able to handle ignition modules as a safety measure.

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Old 03-18-2010, 11:49 PM   #12
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I'm having some trouble figuring out the wiring here. I have a SYL-2362 which is powered on terminals 1 and 2 with 110V. I have the RTD (PT100) wired to terminals 8, 9, and 10 and have configured the PID IntY for P100. The temperature reads correctly, no problems there.

I have a 110V to 24V Transformer powering a terminal block. I would like the PID to control my Honeywell VR8200 valve with 24 volts. Will I be required to use an SSR with this configuration, or is it possible to wire the 24 volts into the PID and have it switched internally to another output of 24 volts to the valve?

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Old 03-19-2010, 01:45 AM   #13
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Use the #13 &#14 terminals and set "outY" to 4, this sets up "J2" contacts as the control contacts to turn the valve on.

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Old 03-19-2010, 02:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue View Post
Use the #13 terminals and set "outY" to 4, this sets up "J2" contacts as the control contacts to turn the valve on.
Thanks again kladue! So just to be clear, you are saying I run my 24V hot into #13 and out of #14 to the valve (and run the 24V neutral direct to the valve). Right?

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Old 03-19-2010, 03:49 AM   #15
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That is correct, just follow programming on PID for the J2 contacts (AL2) and you should be good to go. Some times it is handy to install a SPDT center Off switch to bypass contacts on PID control so you can manually control valve for test firing, or disable valve when you are not ready to use it.

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Old 03-19-2010, 01:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue View Post
That is correct, just follow programming on PID for the J2 contacts (AL2) and you should be good to go. Some times it is handy to install a SPDT center Off switch to bypass contacts on PID control so you can manually control valve for test firing, or disable valve when you are not ready to use it.
Excellent, thanks! Yes, I do plan on putting in an HOA-style switch as you described. For now though, I did a quick test (direct wired without the HOA switch) and got 2 volts when the temp was in, 27-ish volts when the temp was low. woohoo!

Now to wire in the switches...

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Old 03-25-2010, 12:49 PM   #17
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I'm working on a Brutus build and neglected pilot safety in my initial plan. I already have a 20 psi regulator and 10" bayou burners. 20psi would be too high for a set up with this valve, right?

Any recommendations or existing threads for the most inexpensive way to put a solid pilot safety system on on these burners?

Would this valve work? Link

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Old 03-25-2010, 01:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianL View Post
I'm working on a Brutus build and neglected pilot safety in my initial plan. I already have a 20 psi regulator and 10" bayou burners. 20psi would be too high for a set up with this valve, right?

Any recommendations or existing threads for the most inexpensive way to put a solid pilot safety system on on these burners?

Would this valve work? Link
No, that valve, if you read the description, is for 0.5 PSI. Most of the gas valves talked about in these threads are for low pressure propane which is 0.5 psi. You would need a low pressure regulator, not a 20 psi regulator.
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:24 PM   #19
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Just a followup.. I got the HOA switches wired in and everything is working great. The center "Off" position kills the solenoid valve power, the top "Auto" position allows the PID to control the solenoid valve, and the bottom "Fire" position sends power directly to the solenoid valve to open (ignoring the PID).

Here's the control panel:



Testing with the RTD tees (Lonnie Mac style):



The RTD inputs and valve power outputs (24V):



Power in:



Pump power out without the covers (I'm planning to swap these out with the female version anyway, for safety's sake):



The control panel wiring. The box I used has a clear back, so this is looking in the back of it:



From left to right:
- 2 x output power modules 110V (pumps)
- 110V Terminating block (top)
- 110V to 24V Transformer, 40VA (middle)
- 24V Terminating block (bottom)
- 2 x SYL-2362 PIDs from Auber (in on/off mode)
- Input power module 110V (fused).
- The HOA switches are on either side of the transformer.

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Old 04-08-2010, 03:20 AM   #20
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Very, very nice job Josh!!

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