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Old 03-11-2008, 07:08 PM   #11
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I can tell you that the water based flux paste sucks ballz though. Just make sure the can of paste does NOT say water based.

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Old 03-12-2008, 02:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
I can tell you that the water based flux paste sucks ballz though. Just make sure the can of paste does NOT say water based.

Yeah that's what I was getting at. For electronics, I know you never use acid core...I realize I mistyped earlier, I said *core* there is no such thing as acid *core* flux, there is acid core solder, which contains the stuff in there iirc. What I needed to say was acid *type* flux and solid core solder. Sorry about the confusion all! You can use the water based stuff, but it's no where near as good (imo) as the regular stuff.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JnJ
Doing some research, I came across this http://www.acehardware.com/sm-workin...g-1280921.html

In the instructions it says "Never use acid core solder for sweating copper pipe. ", but does not give a reason. Any idea?
The reason for this, I think is that with the acid core, you can't get it to penetrate deep enough in a joint (The flux is in the center of the solder). That is the job of the flux, hence the reason why you need to do it separately. Flux and solid type Solder, I don't think it matters if you use the acid flux or the water based...iirc that was what has been available for a long time before the water based hit the shelves.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:57 PM   #14
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Thanks, learning new stuff daily.

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Old 03-12-2008, 02:58 PM   #15
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I am not sure you can get anything but the water based flux's anymore actually. I haven't done any sweating since I migrated to PEX.

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Old 03-12-2008, 02:59 PM   #16
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I use water based flux regularly and it works great. Acid based flux is easier to use for the beginning solderer, as it wicks the solder in more evenly over a wider temp range. it's very corrosive though, and that's why most who sweat copper regularly don't use it. It requires a good cleaning inside and out, which isn't always practical in the field. So as long as you clean your joints well, no problem.

Oh, and make sure to get Lead-free solder, you want 95/5, 95% tin, 5% Antimony.

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Old 03-12-2008, 03:02 PM   #17
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JnJ, just remember...the absolute most important part is to make sure the parts that will be joined are shiny clean, and a thin even coat of Flux on both surfaces. Emery cloth is best. You can use one of those brushes but the tend to wear out rather quickly.

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Old 03-12-2008, 03:51 PM   #18
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Good point about cleanliness and most newbies to soldering mistake what we mean by clean. Using 220 grit sandpaper and rubbing it on the end of the pipe in a shimmy shoe shine fashion for 30 seconds will show you what clean means. It's not about wiping it with a wet rag and calling it done.

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Old 03-12-2008, 04:47 PM   #19
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Don't forget to clean the oxidation off the inside of the firttings too! That's where a wire fitting brush comes in handy.

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Old 03-13-2008, 05:03 AM   #20
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Did you fire up the torch yet?

If not like the guys said before, just hit the pipe and the inside of what ever fitting you are using with some emery paper. doesnt take but a few swipes really. You'll see the difference. I've always used water soluable flux and never had a problem. They key is to heat the fitting on the outside up about halfway back, not just at the seam. Once the flux starts to bubble wait about 5 seconds and then lightly touch the solder to the seam. It should flow down the seam really quickly. If not just heat it up for 5 more seconds and try again. Some parts have alot of mass and take a while to get up to temp. If you get a blob on top where you are trying to solder dont add any more, just keep heating it until it runs.

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