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Old 02-29-2012, 02:10 PM   #431
whis121surfing
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All I have with me is the picture of the parts I got. I will upload some more once the setup is complete.

1. The sight glass will collect the trub in the first 24 hours.
2. Close the butterfly valve and disconnect the sight glass to dump the trub.
3. Clean and sanitize the sight glass to reattach and open the butterfly valve within that first 24 hours so the air that flows up won't harm the beer since the yeast will just be starting the exponential growth phase.
4. Once the yeast floc out you will see pure yeast collecting in the sight glass.

Until I get the cash for the racking arm setup I am going to siphon. Budgets..... you got to love em.

tri-clover.jpg  
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:20 PM   #432
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Can some post the dimensions of the Ace 15 Gallon Full Drain Tank when in the stand being sold?


http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full...-inductor.html
http://www.ruralking.com/agriculture...nd-for-fd.html

Sorry if I missed this in the previous pages.

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Old 03-02-2012, 02:56 AM   #433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whis121surfing View Post
All I have with me is the picture of the parts I got. I will upload some more once the setup is complete.

1. The sight glass will collect the trub in the first 24 hours.
2. Close the butterfly valve and disconnect the sight glass to dump the trub.
3. Clean and sanitize the sight glass to reattach and open the butterfly valve within that first 24 hours so the air that flows up won't harm the beer since the yeast will just be starting the exponential growth phase.
4. Once the yeast floc out you will see pure yeast collecting in the sight glass.

Until I get the cash for the racking arm setup I am going to siphon. Budgets..... you got to love em.
I haven't got the conical yet, but your setup here is pretty much the route I intend to take... except I don't want to do drill for a racking arm at all.

I want to take this tri clover and add this adapter and keg post.

It seems you could just slap that on there when you remove the sight glass full of yeast, open the butteryfly, and then go from ball-lock fitting to ball-lock fitting right into your keg. No drilling, no leaking racking hole, easier to clean than some of racking arms I've seen on here.

So... it would be really cool if someone would spend the $40 to guinea-pig my idea for me!
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:45 AM   #434
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Originally Posted by camiller View Post
Have to admit, I'm not real keen on the idea of the yeast catcher. With the enclosed yeast catcher container there is basically a quart of air that has to be displaced, and the only place for it to go is back up into the fermentor. Seems like just sticking a pitcher under the outlet would be better from an oxygen contact with the beer perspective. Yes, you will have to let some air in the top while drawing out the yeast but the relatively heavier CO2 in the headspace will mostly keep it away. letting it bubble up through the beer seems ... undesirable.
You leave the valve open when you fill the fermenter, close it to disconnect, and then you're done. No air displacement.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:40 AM   #435
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Originally Posted by camiller View Post
Have to admit, I'm not real keen on the idea of the yeast catcher. With the enclosed yeast catcher container there is basically a quart of air that has to be displaced, and the only place for it to go is back up into the fermentor. Seems like just sticking a pitcher under the outlet would be better from an oxygen contact with the beer perspective. Yes, you will have to let some air in the top while drawing out the yeast but the relatively heavier CO2 in the headspace will mostly keep it away. letting it bubble up through the beer seems ... undesirable.

you could definatly put a gas in and pressure release on the catcher. fill it up with co2 and bleed out the air before you open the ball valve.
I've brewed multiple times without issues of air in the catcher.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:17 PM   #436
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@HellBentBrewCo - I plan on storing mine in the garage as well. I am building a fermentation chamber with double pink foam core insulation. Instead of reptile heaters I am using the light bulb can (http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html) to keep up the temperature, and a dorm fridge to cool it down. I am building it this weekend so once it is complete I will let you know how well it works out.

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Old 03-02-2012, 01:45 PM   #437
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Go to this web page and you can download the technical drawing. It is the second one from the top:

http://www.denhartogindustries.com/inductor-tanks

The only thing that isn't specified is the size of the area that fits into the stand. I made my own and cut an 18 5/8" hole and the tank fits perfectly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh View Post
Can some post the dimensions of the Ace 15 Gallon Full Drain Tank when in the stand being sold?


http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full...-inductor.html
http://www.ruralking.com/agriculture...nd-for-fd.html

Sorry if I missed this in the previous pages.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:51 PM   #438
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Originally Posted by Covert View Post
Go to this web page and you can download the technical drawing. It is the second one from the top:

http://www.denhartogindustries.com/inductor-tanks

The only thing that isn't specified is the size of the area that fits into the stand. I made my own and cut an 18 5/8" hole and the tank fits perfectly.
Great! Thank you!
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:21 AM   #439
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Originally Posted by ghoti View Post
@HellBentBrewCo - I plan on storing mine in the garage as well. I am building a fermentation chamber with double pink foam core insulation. Instead of reptile heaters I am using the light bulb can (http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html) to keep up the temperature, and a dorm fridge to cool it down. I am building it this weekend so once it is complete I will let you know how well it works out.
nice, very interested to see this
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:24 AM   #440
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OK... per a request from a fellow HBT member “Apoxbrew” and since no one has yet to explain their racking arm solution, I will show what we did to install a rotating racking arm to the 30 gallon fermenters. I won’t address the Tri-clover fitting setup.This has been done ad nauseam, and I duplicated exactly what others have done before me.
p1010331-0002-copy.jpg
The center of the hole was drilled 6-1/2” up from the where the angle begins at the 1-1/2” FPT extension. When drilling the hole, we used a step drill bit. When we got close to the final size, we removed the bit from the drill and finished the hole by hand (using the bit). The plastic was soft enough to allow quick work. We slightly undersized the hole to allow the threads on the fitting to cut threads into the plastic. BE CAREFUL! Could easily be an oops! The seal is really on the o-ring. We just wanted the secondary protection.
p1010341-0000-copy.jpg
I used fittings from BargainFittings.com:
1. the "new" Keg Weldless Bulkhead with the standard coupling, SS 2-piece ball valve, and the 1/2" Male NPT to 1/2" barb.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...product_id=178
and
2. the Side Pickup weldless version Drain/Dip Tube SS kit with the standard compression fitting option.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...product_id=157
and
3. 6ft. of 1/2" I.D. silicone tube.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...product_id=122
Total cost was in the neighborhood of $70.00 plus shipping.
p1010338-0005.jpg
Racking Arm horizontal, with slight tip upward to allow air to escape, when filling
p1010339-0006.jpg
Racking arm rotated 90 deg downward, leaves a measured amount of a little less than a quart when vacuum breaks on the siphon.
Depending on the wall thickness of your specific conical you may have to Dremel and fine tune the area at the hole, as this weldless fitting only permits about 2 threads to extend into the interior of the conical, which was plenty for the fitting to fasten to on one of ours. Also this is why we decided to use the Silicone O-ring in lieu of the silicone flatwasher that the fitting came with. So far we have done several runs on each conical and no leaks, racking works beautifully as it only needs to rotate once and 90 degrees. Cleanup and disassembly is a breeze, I only tighten as tight as I can with my hands, no tools required.

I am happy to answer any specific questions and edit this thread should this not be clear, or if I have left something out.

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