Spike Brewing 12.5 Conical Fermenter Giveaway!

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Old 02-21-2012, 04:12 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by ghoti View Post
Are folks getting the 1 1/2 FPT or 2 MPT? Any concern about the threaded piece internal on the FPT?
Might have to make a FAQ for this thread Go with 1 1/2" full drain. It is a better option because there is less grooves and such for stuff to get stuck in. Also, fittings, if you go stainless, are MUCH cheaper for 1 1/2".
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:35 PM   #422
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I'm on my mobile right now so sorry if this has been answered already.


How important is the weather stripping/addidng your own airlock stuff? It seems like the lid being the way it is would work well enough keeping air out. Especially if your only going to do say, ten gallon batches, it seems like the leftover headspace would be more than enough fpr the carbon dioxide.

Just wondering as I'm planning on getting my frame built in the next few days and have some beer that needs to get racked over.

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Old 02-21-2012, 11:33 PM   #423
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I think its a matter of preference really. I prefer a positive pressure airlock to insure no added bacteria etc. Others feel that the leaky lid is sufficient for most brewing from what ive read on this blog. I have noticed that with the air tight seal and airlock my brew has better carbonation retention than i was getting before i got the conical. And i find it easier to push beer out of it into keg reducing further contamination risks. All in all i like the airtight version better than non airtight option. Is there any other opinions on this matter out there?

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Old 02-25-2012, 05:49 PM   #424
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I totally duplicated allclene's method and it works nicely. The D type weatherstripping is better than the ribbed for achieving a seal. I used the DAP food safe silicone to seal the inner and outer edge of the weatherstripping.

I think I can now feel more comfortable using it for wine as well where I can have a blanket of argon at ~1 PSI using a secondary regulator or a low pressure propane regulator.

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Old 02-25-2012, 08:33 PM   #425
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When I ordered mine, a INFD015SWSS 1.5" FPT Full Drain model (ordered via Rural King, drop shipped from Den Hartog), I spent a lot of time evaluating it as a sane fermenter. I ended up deciding that sealing it was pointless due to the design of the moulding.

I removed the screws and inset ring (black), and then used a razor knife and a lot of arm control and force to carve out the excess thin moulding at the top into a smooth opening. I cleaned up the screw holes so that there were no dangling bits of plastic. I then screwed the lid into the inset ring and was done. The inset ring has a smooth form, and the moulding it seats into provides a double ledge for a good gravity seal. The positive pressure of fermentation is more than enough to keep the inside sanitary.

So in my case, the lid is more like a "cap" since it just sets in. I do not unscrew it. I have reduced the overall surface area that could harbor contamination (the screws, stainless or not), and the only thing I lose is the ability to pressure transfer.

Not saying sealing it is a bad idea, it's just simply not necessary with this design. Works great!

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Old 02-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #426
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Linked is a video showing my batch of porter destined for a plastic firkin (purchased at UK Brewing) enjoying a closed fermentation after having applied an airtight seal to the lid assembly.

Please pardon the low production values and voice talent.

http://s1145.photobucket.com/albums/o520/randomzymurgist/?action=view&current=e0a71a4b.mp4

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Old 02-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allclene View Post
Ok guys i broke cardenal rule and opened my conical for a pic so here you go.
1. Remove screws by hand that hold the lid ring on.
2. Put a ring of the rubber "D" shaped weatherstrip around flat surface as close to inner wall as posible. If you did this right you should still see part of the holes for the screws.
3. Use silicone and run a descent bead around lip next to weatherstrip covering screw holes with it.
4. Set ring into place and hand screw your screws back in. Do not use screw gun you will strip the holes out.
5. Use finger and smooth off acess around outside that squished out from the lip.
6. Put 2 seperate rings of weatherstrip around contact surface of lid be sure to put seams 180 degrees out from each other for better seal


7. screw lid on as tight as you can and let sit for a day to compress it a bit. I used a long screwdriver between lid handles to tighten it with
8. Attach your hardware to your conical for racking and air lock etc. I use a bucket with water and a hose from the top for airlock
See pics for parts etc.
I sealed mine up today using this method. Worked perfect. Now what is everyone doing for a fermentation chamber? I want to put this in my garage but it's going to take up a lot of space (because I want two of them). I'm thinking of using an air conditioner and a few reptile heaters to hold temperature, thoughts?
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:09 PM   #428
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I sealed mine up today using this method. Worked perfect. Now what is everyone doing for a fermentation chamber? I want to put this in my garage but it's going to take up a lot of space (because I want two of them). I'm thinking of using an air conditioner and a few reptile heaters to hold temperature, thoughts?
I have a 24x24 barn that's insulated and I just keep it at 60* in there.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:26 PM   #429
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Tri Clover connections on my 15 gal conical fermenter.
This is prob a little more expensive using the TriClover connections but I chose them for 3 reasons.

1. THEY LOOK SWEET!
2. Super easy to work with and clean.
3. Very sanitary.

Derrin from BrewersHardware.com was great helping me out with my order. Below is the list of items I got.

Induction tank I bought: http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
• Fitting on tank- 1 1/2" FPT BOSS $61.00 with FREESHIP

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00
Subtotal: $179.25
Shipping cost: $14.95

Total: $194.20 + $61(for induction tank)= $255.20

Racking Arm is next once I get some more fun money.

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Old 02-28-2012, 09:04 PM   #430
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I'd like to see this. The tri clover sounds nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whis121surfing View Post
Tri Clover connections on my 15 gal conical fermenter.
This is prob a little more expensive using the TriClover connections but I chose them for 3 reasons.

1. THEY LOOK SWEET!
2. Super easy to work with and clean.
3. Very sanitary.

Derrin from BrewersHardware.com was great helping me out with my order. Below is the list of items I got.

Induction tank I bought: http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
• Fitting on tank- 1 1/2" FPT BOSS $61.00 with FREESHIP

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00
Subtotal: $179.25
Shipping cost: $14.95

Total: $194.20 + $61(for induction tank)= $255.20

Racking Arm is next once I get some more fun money.
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