Stc-1000 wiring

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bytor2012

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Just ordered an stc-1000 from eBay and I am trying to figure out how to wire it. Please don't post diagrams... They mean nothing to me! Just need to know what I need for a power supply, how to hook it up, and how to change between hot and cold. I have a Johnson control unit on my keezer and figured that out eventually (so I'm not a total idiot), but that comes prewired.
 
It's much easier to describe it with a diagram, they're not really hard to follow. The reason they make them is because it's so hard to describe how to wire something.

Especially if you're wiring up multiple plugs to it.

People have said that my diagram is actually one of the easiest to understand. I'm going to post it anyway and maybe you can figure it out from there.

Mine is wired up to have one set of sockets always on, so I'm not tying up my wall socket all the time. I can run the vacuum if I want. Then one 2-sided outlet for heater and one 2-sided outlet for cooling.

Wiring_Diagram_copy.jpg


Where you see a colored wire "Squiggle" over another wire, it means they're not connected to each other, they are just crossing each other.

The black wires are the "hot" wires, and they correspond to the hot side of things including the hot side of the wall sockets.

The red is the white (neutral) wire on the electrical cord used to hook it up to power it.

Green is ground . The green wire is spliced in three places and hooks up to the ground.

(I'm leaving work soon, if noone comes back and walks you through this, I can elaborate more tonight.)

Hopes this helps.
 
Not trying to come off the wrong way, but if you can't wire it up using the diagrams found in the main STC1000 thread, you might want to consider finding someone that can do it for you. Do you have any friends, family or coworkers that are handy with electricity as well as maybe a little fabrication?

It's a very simple circuit and the diagrams are very easy to follow. Take a look at them after your unit arrives and post any questions as you go along.

Edit: That diagram from Revvy is about as clear as it can get. It might look busy but its not that bad. If you don't need an "always on" source for a fan then the left receptacle can be deleted. If you only want a single receptacle each for heat and cool, one of the right receptacles can be deleted along with breaking a tab on the one receptacle remaining and connecting the other hot wire to the other screw.
 
Hi

Ok without diagrams:

Black wire from cord goes to post one. White wire from cord goes to post two. Black wire from cord goes to post five. Black wire from cord goes to post seven. Red wire from post six goes to black wire connection on "heat" socket. Red wire from post eight goes to black wire connection on "cool" socket. White wire from heat socket goes to white wire on cord. White wire from cool socket goes to white wire on cord. Green wire on cord goes to ground lug on cool socket. Green wire on cord goes to ground lug on heat socket.

Heat gizmo plugs into heat socket. Cooling gizmo plugs into cool socket. No settings need to change to take it from heat to cool. If it's below the set point - cutout delta it heats. If it's above the set point it cools.

Much easier with a drawing.

Bob
 
Ok. Maybe my question should've been "what do I use as a power supply?" The only cord it came with I'm assuming is the temp sensor. What do I use to hook the freezer to the unit and the unit to the wall?
 
A lot of us just use a "replacement power tool cord" or even cut apart an extension cord. I usually buy larger that I need, so I can cut a few feet off to use to actually wire it.

PartsIsParts.JPG


Here's a basic parts list....

R62-16252-0WS Leviton 15-Amp White Decora Plus Duplex Outlet (as many as needed)
R52-PJ264-00W Leviton White Midway Nylon Wallplate (As many "gangs" (Slots as needed)
AW62632 Husky 9 Ft. 14-3 Power Tool Replacement Cord
B468R CARLON Electrical Wall Box (As many "gangs" as needed)
20511 Halex No. 20511, 3/8 In. Pack of 5 Twin Screw Clamp Connector
STC 1000 Dual stage temperature Controller w/probe

I based mine on Tom's design...His thread is good, I have only the slightest knowledge of doing this stuff. I can switch out a bad wall socket but that's about it. And I really didn't have trouble doing this.

In fact I just wired one up with only 3 gangs (Not an always on) and did it without a diagram.
 
Ok. Maybe my question should've been "what do I use as a power supply?" The only cord it came with I'm assuming is the temp sensor. What do I use to hook the freezer to the unit and the unit to the wall?

Hi

The STC-1000 that most of us get runs off of 110 VAC wall power. It hooks to the same cord that powers the freezer.

Bob
 
Hi

The STC-1000 that most of us get runs off of 110 VAC wall power. It hooks to the same cord that powers the freezer.

Bob
This brings up a very important point given th OPs lack of electrical knowledge.

bytor2012
Make sure you purchased the correct STC-1000, marked 110VAC. If it is marked 220VAC or 12V, its not the right one.
 
This brings up a very important point given th OPs lack of electrical knowledge.

bytor2012
Make sure you purchased the correct STC-1000, marked 110VAC. If it is marked 220VAC or 12V, its not the right one.

Hi

I have some major concerns every time I chime in on one of these threads. Are we enabling somebody to undertake a potentially dangerous task without any idea if they can handle it?

None of this is anything that would be tough work for your typical electrician. If all the parts are on hand it's maybe 20 minutes of work. Around here you might pay $70 to have one do the final hookup and make sure it's ok. That may be the best advice for a lot of people.

Bob
 
OK...I wired it up and it works. Or at least the power works. I wired it to one receptical using the top for hot and the bottom for cold. Here's my problem now...when plugged into either outlet the freezer temp is not controlled, it just continuously goes down into the negative temp range. I have it set to 15 degrees and it won't even get near there. Where do I begin troubleshooting?
 
Hi

Tape the probe to the inside wall of the freezer. You want the tip to be about half way to 2/3 way down the wall. If it's over the hump that's fine, just make sure it's out of the way from where kegs might scrape it off as you take them in and out. Aluminum foil tape is the best thing to use. Duct / Duck / Gorilla tape also works.

Bob
 
Figured it out. And it's up and running. Thanks for the help!

Hi

GREAT!!

You probably will have to fiddle a little bit to get the kegs at the right temperature. An offset of a couple degrees between the controller and the beer temperature is not at all uncommon.

Bob
 
Does the STC1000 have "CE" marking? I thought I saw it in one of the pictures, but I don't see it on the latest ebay listings.

Some of the pictures on Ebay have it, others don't? I'm sure they are the same unit though.
 
Does the STC1000 have "CE" marking? I thought I saw it in one of the pictures, but I don't see it on the latest ebay listings.

Some of the pictures on Ebay have it, others don't? I'm sure they are the same unit though.
My STC1000 has a CE marking.
 
I just got mine. This thing is pretty slick.

I haven't put it in an enclosure yet. Does it fit perfectly in the same size slot as a rectangular light switch? looks like yours is popping out a bit ?
 
It does not fit perfectly I had to do some grinding on the face plate and the box and it still did not fit perfectly. But I wanted it up and running for my next batch vs looking good. It will be a work in progress.
 
No worries ;) I was just wondering how easy it would fit . I know it's some sort of standard size.. but maybe not any US standard.
 
Now that I have this thing I am debating on what to heat my chamber with in the winter. I was thinking a metal paint can and a 100w bulb in it or a cheep ceramic heater from wal-mart. I think both would work but do I want a fast heat increase from the heater w/ a fan or the slow increase from the bulb?
 
check out my article in BYO with an STC-1000 build Jan/Feb issue Fermentation Temp controller
(Shameless self promotion)
 
brewslut said:
check out my article in BYO with an STC-1000 build Jan/Feb issue Fermentation Temp controller
(Shameless self promotion)

Thanks the article was great.
 
Thank for asking.. I think your posts are great regarding anything wiring.

My only questions, which JuanMoore is helping with, is WHAT probes are available for it? He said there were replacements.. which I couldn't find on eBay.. mentioned also that there are even SS probes. I searched and found lots of probes.. but, have NO idea if they are compatible.
 
Thank for asking.. I think your posts are great regarding anything wiring.

My only questions, which JuanMoore is helping with, is WHAT probes are available for it? He said there were replacements.. which I couldn't find on eBay.. mentioned also that there are even SS probes. I searched and found lots of probes.. but, have NO idea if they are compatible.

Good question! I'd like to know about this as well.

I just wired mine up thanks to Revvy's diagram. I also have a 220V stc-1000 that I've learned how to convert to 110v that I will use for my keezer build..
 
Thank for asking.. I think your posts are great regarding anything wiring.

My only questions, which JuanMoore is helping with, is WHAT probes are available for it? He said there were replacements.. which I couldn't find on eBay.. mentioned also that there are even SS probes. I searched and found lots of probes.. but, have NO idea if they are compatible.

I recall a post several weeks back about it somewhere on here by Carlisle Bob, explaining about replacement probes for most of the common temp controllers. It was over my head. But iirc he made it seem that for the ebay temp controller finding the correct replacement probe, was nigh on impossible.

I'll try to pm him to say something about this.
 
for the ebay temp controller finding the correct replacement probe, was nigh on impossible..

I've read this quite a few times myself. It seems like there has to be something out there that will work, though!
 
Revvy said:
I recall a post several weeks back about it somewhere on here by Carlisle Bob, explaining about replacement probes for most of the common temp controllers. It was over my head. But iirc he made it seem that for the ebay temp controller finding the correct replacement probe, was nigh on impossible.

I'll try to pm him to say something about this.

I don't know what Bob said, but it's very simple, and there are plenty of options out there. Any sensor of the same type that has the same resistance will work. The sensor for the STC-1000 is a fairly standard type; NTC thermistor and IIRC 10k ohm resistance at 25 degrees C. Emjay has posted a link a few times for the inexpensive SS probes he bought to replace the stock probes in his controllers. I'm on my phone now, but if I think of it later I'll find some links to suitable options and post them here.
 
I don't know what Bob said, but it's very simple, and there are plenty of options out there. Any sensor of the same type that has the same resistance will work. The sensor for the STC-1000 is a fairly standard type; NTC thermistor and IIRC 10k ohm resistance at 25 degrees C. Emjay has posted a link a few times for the inexpensive SS probes he bought to replace the stock probes in his controllers. I'm on my phone now, but if I think of it later I'll find some links to suitable options and post them here.

Thanks Juan! I'd be interested in seeing any links you might have for the SS ones..
 
They're even easier to find (and much cheaper) as simple bare thermistors, if someone feels like making/finding a sleeve for them.
 
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