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Old 03-20-2014, 04:29 PM   #1
passivestamina
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Default STC-1000 replacing refrigerator thermostat

Ok so,
First post here and I'm a novice when it comes to electrical work, but here goes.

I bought a used fridge that functioned fine and I wanted to install an stc-1000 in the refrigeration area, and still maintain the ability to use the freezer. So my thought process was:
1. disconnect the fridge thermostat, and connect hot & neutral to the STC1000 cooling terminal.
2. splice hot & neutral to the STC1000 main power.
3. ferment beer.

So I cut a hole in the door of the fridge, took out the old fridge thermostat which looked like this.

Brown on the bottom is neutral, gray on the top was live from the defrost switch, green is ground, black is livee always on.

So I've
1) spliced black (live) to connect to the defrost timer and STC1000 main power
2) Spliced the brown (neutral) to the cool neutral and main STC neutral
3) Spliced the gray (live from defrost) to the STC 1000 cool live line

Plugged in the fridge, light turns on, fan turns on, STC turns on, cool timer blinks, wait 1 minute for timer to end, cool switch kicks on, STC resets (flashes all 8's on display), STC shows temp and cooling timer is counting down.

So I think the problem is the compressor is pushing too much (higher than 10 amps) through the STC and the STC is resetting itself.

I think if I ground the STC (is that possible?) or lower the amount of pushed through the STC (I think this would affect the compressor), it might work.

But... how?




https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5r...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5r...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5r...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5r...it?usp=sharing

img_20140319_162616.jpg   img_20140319_162619.jpg   img_20140319_162623.jpg   img_20140319_162631.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2014, 06:27 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passivestamina View Post
.....Brown on the bottom is neutral, gray on the top was live from the defrost switch, green is ground, black is livee always on.

So I've
1) spliced black (live) to connect to the defrost timer and STC1000 main power
2) Spliced the brown (neutral) to the cool neutral and main STC neutral
3) Spliced the gray (live from defrost) to the STC 1000 cool live line

.....
There is no cool neutral. The STC1000 cool terminals are simply a switch that routes current from terminal 7 through a relay contact to terminal 8. Use this terminal pair to control the HOT that would normally be controlled by the existing thermostat.

I can't speak with certainty about the wiring because I can't really make out the difference between black and brown. And no photos of the as-installed STC1000 were provided. Is there a wiring diagram you could post?
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:30 PM   #3
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By cool neutral I mean the white (not ground) line. Here's my fridges wiring diagram, and my own wiring diagram.

hotpoint-diagram.jpg   stc-wiring-diagram-1.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:13 AM   #4
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There is no Cool/White/Neutral at the STC1000.

Based on the schematic:

Brown along the left is the HOT buss. This HOT should be used as the always live HOT to power the STC1000, let's say terminal 1.
Orange along the right is the Neutral buss. The only neutral connection to the STC1000 would be terminal 2.

Essentially, you want STC1000 terminals 7 & 8 to be connected to brown and gray with the thermostat removed.

Your Diagram:
I'm not sure what the color convention for you diagram is. Hot=black, Neutral=tan, or the opposite.
Regardless, it is incorrect. For example, in the schematic, the defrost timer does not have a direct connection to both legs of "line in". And the switched (terminal 7 to 8 ) line, by way of the defrost timer, cannot be the same as the fixed line into the compressor.

Keep in mind, that this modification may not result in the freezer maintaining freezer temperatures. The current thermostat monitors and controls freezer temperatures. The STC1000's probe, I assume, will be monitoring fermenting wort temperature.

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Old 03-21-2014, 01:43 PM   #5
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Yeah...
I messed up that diagram. I made it without the gear in front of me.

But, the good news is I fixed it. Basically, I had the black and brown running to the main power of the STC 1000. The black line switched on the compressor from the brown line and turned off the STC when I had it connected. So I just ran it to the orange and brown on main power, and brown and black on the cooling switch.

So here's to hoping it stays up and running. Thanks for the help.

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Old 03-21-2014, 07:56 PM   #6
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That's great you got it working. Just keep in mind that using brown and black on terminals 7 & 8 will bypass the defrost control, which may become a problem.

In addition, if the defrost control is still powered via the existing thermostat through the gray lead, the defrost heater will fight the compressor. The defrost timer can actually be back-fed powered via the black lead, although it shouldn't do much if it trips.

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Old 07-06-2014, 10:02 PM   #7
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Any updates? I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Does the freezer still work? Does the lack of defrost control pose a problem?

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