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Horseflesh · 10-29-2012, 12:18 AM

Side note on the STC-1000: I compared the temperature reading to a much more expensive instrument, and the STC-1000 was within 0.2C at room temperature. That's much better than I expected at this price.

porcupine73 · 10-29-2012, 12:25 AM

That is nice. And if you did happen to nice a relatively constant offset vs a calibrated source in your target control range, it has an offset you can set to compensate for the displayed value.

RikR · 10-29-2012, 03:31 PM

oops, should have read the rest of the thread before posting. I see others have already pointed out the schematic errors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincoln

ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.

Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:

this is what I did:

basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.

what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?

The relays on this diagram appear to me to be hooked up incorrectly. The coil and contacts seem to be reversed from what they should be.

**limulus** · 11-17-2012, 07:36 PM

Hello All, this may have already been posted in this thread, but I purchased two of these from Amazon for $49 on 07 Nov and they shipped that day and arrived in my mailbox today from China.

**Huaco** · 11-19-2012, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limulus

Hello All, this may have already been posted in this thread, but I purchased two of these from Amazon for $49 on 07 Nov and they shipped that day and arrived in my mailbox today from China.

Yep. Mine came with a bunch of Chinese writing on it and customs declaration. Made it across the pacific and to Texas in something like 9 days. Pretty remarkable.

gatorbite87 · 11-25-2012, 02:51 PM

Yea some if those companies are really quick.

demons210 · 11-27-2012, 11:50 PM

Ok, so I got my temp controller built and it seems to be working good but I have one question. Can you drill into the side of a fridge? Just the old school fridge on bottom and freezer on top fridge. I want to mount my controller to the side of it but don't know if I will drill into lines and destroy my fridge. Any input would be helpful.

Horseflesh · 11-27-2012, 11:57 PM

I think that the coolant lines in a fridge are generally in the back... but I am not sure and I wouldn't drill. Maybe you can find a service manual for your fridge?

You could also consider using industrial-strength Velcro. That's good stuff.

demons210 · 11-28-2012, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Horseflesh

I think that the coolant lines in a fridge are generally in the back... but I am not sure and I wouldn't drill. Maybe you can find a service manual for your fridge?

You could also consider using industrial-strength Velcro. That's good stuff.

Velcro is a good idea. Thanks for the help

**Matterpro** · 11-28-2012, 10:45 PM

Just got my STC-1000 today, working on the project box tonight. Can't wait to fire up that craigslist freezer and actually have controlled ferments instead of the texas closet temp!