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Old 09-08-2012, 03:25 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore

If it doesn't say STC-1000 on it, it could very well be the similar single stage unit. If so, since you're using it for a keezer, it should work just fine. I have one installed in the collar of my keezer. Let me know if you have questions with the wiring, since it's a little different than the STC-1000.

And I don't know if wiring two controllers in series is such a good idea. There's a lot of issues that could create, and it doesn't really protect against much. A controller dying is much more likely to cut power completely rather than freeze the beer, which a second controller wired in series won't fix. Even if a controller does freeze your beer from a malfunction, it won't really hurt your beer.
I appreciate the advice. I'll think about it as I build the collar. Since the Johnson controller is already on the way with other components I may just return this one to my friend. I don't like the thought of buying and connecting power outlets to it.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:56 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
If it doesn't say STC-1000 on it, it could very well be the similar single stage unit. If so, since you're using it for a keezer, it should work just fine. I have one installed in the collar of my keezer. Let me know if you have questions with the wiring, since it's a little different than the STC-1000.

And I don't know if wiring two controllers in series is such a good idea. There's a lot of issues that could create, and it doesn't really protect against much. A controller dying is much more likely to cut power completely rather than freeze the beer, which a second controller wired in series won't fix. Even if a controller does freeze your beer from a malfunction, it won't really hurt your beer.
This is the device I'm talking about. It looks nearly identical:


Well if two in series isn't a good idea, I'll probably just use the Johnson controller, since I already paid for it, I don't want to deal with purchasing/wiring power outlets, and its display is in Fahrenheit. I appreciate the advice. Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:08 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by frothus View Post
This is the device I'm talking about. It looks nearly identical:

Well if two in series isn't a good idea, I'll probably just use the Johnson controller, since I already paid for it, I don't want to deal with purchasing/wiring power outlets, and its display is in Fahrenheit. I appreciate the advice. Thanks!
That is the STC-1000, not the single stage unit.

Wiring one controller downstream from another really is a bad idea for many reasons, and if you're not totally comfortable with wiring outlets, that's even more reason to just use the johnson. Good luck!
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:36 PM   #44
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Dang... now the chinese are knocking off their OWN products! I wonder how many places in china make these things???

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Old 09-18-2012, 11:27 PM   #45
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Anyone know if the STC-1000 will push enough amps to start up a Holiday 7cu chest freezer set up in my garage?

Here are some specs from the back of the freezer:
Voltage: 115v~60Hz
Amps:1.70A
Startup Amps: 12A

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Old 09-19-2012, 12:05 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by fwooten View Post
Anyone know if the STC-1000 will push enough amps to start up a Holiday 7cu chest freezer set up in my garage?

Here are some specs from the back of the freezer:
Voltage: 115v~60Hz
Amps:1.70A
Startup Amps: 12A
You should be fine. There is some debate about the actual rating of the relay, but either way it's close enough to 12A that it shouldn't be an issue. If the running load were close to the rating, then it could be an issue, but the startup draw only lasts a split second. I popped the cover on my controller, and the relays say 15A @ 125V.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:14 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
You should be fine. There is some debate about the actual rating of the relay, but either way it's close enough to 12A that it shouldn't be an issue. If the running load were close to the rating, then it could be an issue, but the startup draw only lasts a split second. I popped the cover on my controller, and the relays say 15A @ 125V.

How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:39 AM   #48
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How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.
I honestly don't remember, it was a couple years ago. I do remember that I had to slice the wiring diagram sticker on top of the unit, so it will be apparent that it's been open if you try to return it. I think someone has directions with pics for taking it apart in the main STC-1000 thread (for replacing the transformer for those who ordered the 220V unit on accident), but that thread's 3,000+ posts long.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:53 AM   #49
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How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.
In order to get the cover off you must either cut or remove part of the label on the top of the STC-1000. Cut it where the front section joins up to the cover. Then carefully spread the tabs on each side and slide the cover back off the unit. There isn't a way of doing this that is not obvious to anyone looking at the unit that it has been disassembled.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:08 PM   #50
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just one thing to point out that the contacts are only rated for 10 amps. A pair of fuses would be a good thing to add. For my deep freeze I had to run an external relay.
That rating is at 220v, is it still 10 amps at 110v?
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