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Old 01-08-2013, 08:52 PM   #41
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I decided to repurpose the keg top cut outs as the lids for the vessels. A little poly trim around the lid tops should give a nice tight fit. Need to find something to block the dip tube holes. I used # 8-32 stainless machine screws, nuts, and lock washers, as well as stainless 1 1/4" fender washers to prevent the lids from fall throught the R/O's. Punching a few more holes for the HEMS coil and recirculation ports tonight.

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Old 01-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #42
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Great idea! Looks good!

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Old 01-09-2013, 12:45 PM   #43
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My biggest concern at this point is with the height in which I should place the holes for the 5500w heating elements and the HERM's coil.
I have a Kal Clone with 3 bottom drain kegs as vessels. My advice on heating element placement is putting them as low as possible. When I built mine I didn't have much choice. When I put my conduit box against my keg I really only had about a quarter of an inch to play with in vertical height. If I would move it up too far it would hit one of the keg ridges, down too far and I would run into the box hitting the skirt. I wanted to make sure I wouldn't hit these for potential sealing issues. This will change depending on your keg/box and what the angles are.

My advice is to take your conduit box and place it on your keg with the washer and see if this is really an issue. If your kegs/box is like mine you won't really have much of a choice. My elements are completely covered by 3 gal of water.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:12 PM   #44
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^^^^^
My Bottom Drain Keggles on my Kal-inspired system are exactly like MCL says. I actually must have punched one element hole about an 1/8" higher than the other and my face plate of the box hit a rib on the keg. I just beat the tar out of that rib with a brass mallet 'till i had adequate clearance and could tighten the lock nut down to achieve a good seal and proper ground on the keggle.

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Old 01-09-2013, 03:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
A little poly trim around the lid tops should give a nice tight fit.
do you have a photo of the trim?
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcl View Post
I have a Kal Clone with 3 bottom drain kegs as vessels. My advice on heating element placement is putting them as low as possible. When I built mine I didn't have much choice. When I put my conduit box against my keg I really only had about a quarter of an inch to play with in vertical height. If I would move it up too far it would hit one of the keg ridges, down too far and I would run into the box hitting the skirt. I wanted to make sure I wouldn't hit these for potential sealing issues. This will change depending on your keg/box and what the angles are.

My advice is to take your conduit box and place it on your keg with the washer and see if this is really an issue. If your kegs/box is like mine you won't really have much of a choice. My elements are completely covered by 3 gal of water.
Thanks for the advice. I have the conduit boxes and elements, but still don't have them built yet. I'll put the conduit box on the side of the keg and see how tight my clearances are. Honestly, I didn't even think about skirt weld and rib clearance issue, so I appreciate the feedback. I was more concerned about clearance issue with the internal components. I'm supposed to have 1/2 of my shipment from Bobby at Brewhardware today with my remaining ss fittings, bulkheads, site glasses, pumps, etc. I think I ordered the oversized lock nut and washers from him as well for the elements. The o-rings are coming from Grainger. Not sure which shipment from Bobby my element fittings are going to show up in though. He sent 1/2 of my order USPS priority mail and the second 1/2 standard. The priority shipment is schedule for drop today, but nada on the other shipment in USPS's system.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:33 PM   #47
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^^^^^
My Bottom Drain Keggles on my Kal-inspired system are exactly like MCL says. I actually must have punched one element hole about an 1/8" higher than the other and my face plate of the box hit a rib on the keg. I just beat the tar out of that rib with a brass mallet 'till i had adequate clearance and could tighten the lock nut down to achieve a good seal and proper ground on the keggle.
Thanks for the feedback as well. Quick questions: Do you recall the height of your element hole (on center) from the bottom of the keg? Do you recall what height your lower HERMs intake port is positioned from the bottom of the keg in the HLT? How much space b/w the element and the bottom of the coil?

Kal used 50 ft. of 1/2" ss tubing in his system for the HERMs, I'm using 50 ft. of 1/2" copper tubing in mine. In his build he went 4 1/2" from the bottom of the kettle for the lower port on center and 11 1/2" to the second port on center with 7" of spacing since his coil ended up 7" tall. He of course used Blichmann's and I'm using keggles. My coil ended up 9 inches tall, so I will space the two holes 9" as opposed to 7". I'm just trying to make sure that I position the coil as low as possible in the HLT, so that the majority of it stays submerged, but with clearance above the element.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:44 PM   #48
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I believe my element hole was a little over 5 in. I will measure tonight and report back. I wish my coil was more compressed. I think I need 12 gallons in the HLT to completely submerge it. I usually run it with about 9 Gal and the performance is fine.

How are you installing your coil? I installed mine using 90 degree compression fittings. This worked but the coil is at a slight angle. At the lowest point it is about .5 inches above the element.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppopotomus View Post
Thanks for the feedback as well. Quick questions: Do you recall the height of your element hole (on center) from the bottom of the keg? Do you recall what height your lower HERMs intake port is positioned from the bottom of the keg in the HLT? How much space b/w the element and the bottom of the coil?

Kal used 50 ft. of 1/2" ss tubing in his system for the HERMs, I'm using 50 ft. of 1/2" copper tubing in mine. In his build he went 4 1/2" from the bottom of the kettle for the lower port on center and 11 1/2" to the second port on center with 7" of spacing since his coil ended up 7" tall. He of course used Blichmann's and I'm using keggles. My coil ended up 9 inches tall, so I will space the two holes 9" as opposed to 7". I'm just trying to make sure that I position the coil as low as possible in the HLT, so that the majority of it stays submerged, but with clearance above the element.
What I did was to work backwards to fit the HERMS coil to the HLT. I coiled the 50'x1/2"OD copper around a small stainless trash can that gave me the ID of the coil that I was targeting. I then swept the ends to about the same vertical plane. From there I took a measurement of the center to center of the HERMS ends. I placed it in my HLT with the element installed aready and placed it a little above the element. The copper will sag under it's own weight a little and mine actually touches the element but it is not causing any issues. From here I measured and marked the locations of the wall penetrations. I soldered all my couplers into the Keggle side walls...
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:05 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcl View Post
I believe my element hole was a little over 5 in. I will measure tonight and report back. I wish my coil was more compressed. I think I need 12 gallons in the HLT to completely submerge it. I usually run it with about 9 Gal and the performance is fine.

How are you installing your coil? I installed mine using 90 degree compression fittings. This worked but the coil is at a slight angle. At the lowest point it is about .5 inches above the element.
I'm using 90 degree compression fittings as well. To prevent the sagging on the opposite side I'm going to wrap a strand of 10 guage copper vertically around the coil (from top to bottom) and fasten the wire to a stainless eye bolt that I'll install in the top of the keg.....kind of a suspension wire to keep it from sagging. Thanks man, please report back, because it will be a lot of help.
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