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Old 09-15-2011, 08:35 PM   #11
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have you tried paint stripper?

what about clay bar? like what you would use to detail a car. if it's not clear coated then the clay bar might get it off, but paint stripper would be easier



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Old 09-16-2011, 12:58 AM   #12
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No but I'll give it a shot. I'll stop by HD tomorrow after work to get some. I had a bottle of Goof Off and tried that. It took the adhesives off from the stickers on the kegs like a dream, but didn't do anything to the paint. The bottle said that it works on latex paint only. Any other suggestions would be great as well.



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Old 09-16-2011, 01:48 AM   #13
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gell paint remover. you won't have to worry about if running off before it does its job. you will have to work in shifts because its a round surface. id lay it on its side, put some on the paint, wait, remove, roll, repeat!

Lowes carries a few brands.

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Old 09-16-2011, 10:54 AM   #14
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Thanks! I'll pick some up after work today.

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Old 09-16-2011, 11:17 AM   #15
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Most "aircraft" type aerosols will take the paint off of a keg. Spray it on, let it work for about 5 to 8 minutes. You will see the paint bubble off. Then wipe it off with a scotchbrite pad.

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Old 10-22-2011, 09:05 PM   #16
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It's been a while since I last posted. I'm juggling too many projects at once, so little progress on the e-kettles. I have my 5500w 240v heating elements on order and continue to compile my list of stainless fitttings, parts, ball valves, etc. I'm building basically the same system as Kal designed, but refuse to pay $375 for the Blichmann Kettles. A local deli down the road from my office went out of business and they are liquidating their equipment. I was able to pick up a couple of stainless steel tables for cheap. They need some cleaning and polishing, but they will do the trick. One is a 48"x30" all stainless with a shelf. The other is a 60"x30" heavy duty stainless table with aluminum legs and undershelf. The bigger of the two will be what I set the kettles on and the smaller will be a work island in my brewery. Here are a few pics of the tables.

I don't care for the aluminum legs and shelf on the bigger table, but it's sturdy as hell, so I can't complain for the price. They should clean up nice, but I may use some kind of metallic spray paint on the aluminum base of the one. Any suggestions?







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Old 10-22-2011, 09:10 PM   #17
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Here are a couple of pics. with the kettles on the bigger table. I can easily cut the legs down on the table to lower the level of the kettles. It has cross supports that make it very sturdy. I'm a big guy and I can sit in the table in the middle and it doesn't even bow. Should be plenty strong for a good brewing table base. I could add another support in the middle with an aluminum fence post, but I don't think it will be necessary.





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Old 10-22-2011, 09:11 PM   #18
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I wouldn't paint the aluminum, I'd buff it up with an angle grinder and a medium/fine pad to give it a nice matte finish and call it done. Paint is a PITA that will end up looking like crap once you start dinging it up...

Cheers!

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Old 10-23-2011, 02:01 PM   #19
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Thanks for the advice. The tables have some very fine scratches that I plan on buffing/polishing out when I put the final polishing onto the kegs. I will do a fine sanding on the aluminum and maybe a #5 polish and let it be. I don't really want to paint the base, but it depends on how it looks when I'm done cleaning it up and polishing.

Over the next week, I am going to start gathering my stainless steel nuts, washers, fittings, ball locks, disconnects, etc. for my kettle conversions. I recently learned about a business that is 2 miles from my house called Quality Fasteners. I drive by the business everyday, but didn't realize that they sell most of the stainless parts that I need for my keggle conversions. My neighbor owns a solar power installation company and he said that he purchases stainless parts at a fraction of the cost of McMaster/Carr, Granger, etc. I'm stopping in there on Tuesday with a parts list to see what they can help me with, because paying $3 to $6 each for ss washers, lock nuts, bushings, etc. through Morebeer.com or brewhardware.com isn't gonna happen. My neighbor claims that he gets these items for 1/3 or the price of other sites. If it pans out for me, I will let them know at this business that they could do a hell of a business with home brewers if they keep their costs down and market it effectively.

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Old 10-28-2011, 02:20 PM   #20
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Well it didn't work out with the company by my house. Not only was their quote high, it wasn't even in the same frickin' ballpark.......or universe for that matter. Their quote had several fittings at $30 each, for the same fitting at BargainFittings.com for $4. Not to mention their quote for the 50' coil of 1/2" SS Tubing for $449....WTF! I have been driving myself crazy working off of Kal's list for the electricbrewery.com and cross comparing on 5 to 6 different websites like McMaster/Carr, Grainer, MoreBeer, BargainFittings, Norcal, etc. In my experience so far, I am quickly discovering that you really cannot beat BargainFittings.com for their weldless kits. Bobby at BrewHardware.com has very good pricing as well (and his site glasses are superior IMHO) and he has done an awful lot for HBT and the homebrewing community as a whole. I've tried pricing out each piece of the kit through various vendors and cannot beat the $11 to $12 for the kits....there's just no comparison trying to piece it together yourself through MMC or Grainger.

Here's what I'm learning in this process so far. Buying the bulkhead kits is the way to go. I plan on using a combination of BargainFittings.com and BrewHardware.com for everything, with the exception of some of the interior components. Although it is certainly more sexy to go with all 100% stainless steel parts, I'm having a hard time spending $19 for one SS 1/2" MPT x 1/2" compression fitting. I also am quickly realizing that things can be done in a much more cost effective manner by using some copper fittings. Although money isn't a major issue, the frugal side of me is having a hard time paying gross amounts of money for tiny little fittings. Not to mention a 50' coil of 1/2" stainless steel tubing, which is expensive as hell. I have two copper immersion chillers, one 50' and one 75'. Guess what the 50' is going to be used for.... you guessed it, the HERMS coil. I would much rather use some copper components for the guts of the build and put the extra several hundred dollars in savings towards Kal's control panel.



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