Stainless Wiki Conical under $100?

Hey guys, I have been lurking for a few years on HBT and mostly on the DIY thread.

I am currently fermenting in buckets but, want a Stainless Conical however, the cost is a bit prohibitive. Inspired by conicals that have been built out of plastic funnels and buckets I have searched the internet high and low for a large stainless funnel that I can mate up with a brew pot and a seal to make a conical. I have finally found the correct funnel (I think).



http://www.foodservicedirect.com/pr...ainless-Steel-Funnel-11-7/8-inch-Diameter.htm

(amazon also sells them)

I ordered it up and now that I have it home I need to find the right stainless pot to complete the conical. I tried a 20qt walmart pot that I already have but it was just a hair too large.

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Even after I made a gasket out of old tubing it just wasn't going to seal up.

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So what I would like to ask everyone to help find is a Stainless pot that has a lip that this funnel will fit snugly in so I can seal it up and attach the funnel and build dirt cheap stainless conicals.

This is how wide the funnel is.

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So Anyhoo hopefully we can use our combined powers for good and figure out how to make a 5 Gallon stainless conical for under $100.

Thanks,

Lg

Well if you have a welder, that's certainly close enough to weld up nicely. Ask around at work--a surprising number of people have a welder and the skills to use one.

That mini-filter at the bottom of the funnel concerns me, though--could easily get plugged up with trub.

How were you thinking of attaching a valve to the bottom? Funnel->tubing->valve?

Ed, I am in the process of tearing the screen out. I assumed that it was just press fitted in and it is sandwiched with another screen and tac welded in. I think that I am going to get a bulkhead fitting and drill the screen and cut the snout of the funnel off.

As for welding I am against it because I want the whole thing to be able to:

A. Be taken apart and cleaned.

B. be able to be taken apart and put in an oven to be sanitized with heat.

In the end it doesnt matter what I think should be done I would like to see our collective ingenuity and knowledge focused on this funnel until we have a well built conical for under $100.

BTW thanks for the response.

Lg

Use your pot lid to make a flange for the pot you already have. Have the funnel tig welded to the outer rim of the top.
old trucker

Old Trucker, that is a danged fine idea.

Lg

Ok so I still want to do this project without welding (yet) So I took the standard walmart lid.



Got rid of the glass and put on the tubing gasket.



With the whole thing mocked up it looks like it will provide a pretty good seal if I can get some clamps that will press down hard enough.




So that is the next question, what do you guys recommend to tie all of this stuff together? Is there a jaw-like clamp out there made for this purpose? BTW I would like to make this thing look as neat and clean as possible because I want to have a few on display in my Bar room kinda like microbrews have theirs on display.

I am going to go ahead and say that this will be very difficult without welding. But I sure as hell don't want to rain on your parade. If I were to even think of doing this without welding, I am thinking something like drum lid rings:

Yes, I have seen diffferent sized clamp rings, down to 5 gal. size. Or, one of the clamp rings in the photo can be cut down and the nuts (hee hee, he said nuts) can be welded back on and the clamps can be used to seal it. I presume when you said "no welding", you meant on the fermenter part, and secondly, maybe the ring can be adjusted just by rewelding one of the nuts. Let us know - Dwain

How about a draw latch somewhat like on a toolbox or my dining room table?
It might take four or five to get a nice tight seal and you would most likely have to weld them to the pot. If I understand what you are after welds are not so much the problem as not being able to take it apart and cost to the non-welder.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...dition=116&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1006

Style G perhaps?

Does anyone know where to find the drum clamps in a 5 gallon size?

I like the idea of using the draw latches and it is what I envisioned in the first place, and another benefit is they could be bolted in. I don't want to drill holes in anything but I would rather do that instead of welding.

Here is my problem with welding on THIS project. I do not think that many people have the skill to weld a sanitary weld (me included). I do have a welder and can use it, but with something like this I would take it to a professional. I just think that welding would make the project undesirable to most hobby brewers out there. If I cant make it work I will have it welded but I already own all of the components. If I didn't own any of this stuff and it had to be welded I wouldn't likely undertake the project.

The beauty of this is that if you have access to quality welding you can have the conical for $100 easy

chippy_23 said:

Does anyone know where to find the drum clamps in a 5 gallon size?

Click to expand...

http://www.clampco.com/products/products.asp


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

OK so I am operating on faith but I am going to order one of these.

http://www.gemplers.com/product/4310-1/Replacement-Lever-lock-Ring-Metal-Pails

I will also be perusing CL but this should be made to work without too much non-sense.

Lg

Chippy,
I used to get those on 5 - 7 gal CL2 buckets for pool shock. Check with someone that has a pool or the local pool supply store. This one is just for test anyway. - Dwain

I will have to check out the pool supply places.


Also does anyone use one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYUA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

If so can you provide dimensions for me? I know I have the cart way ahead of the horse here but I am thinking about the second generation already. What I am thinking is cut off the strength ring just above the handles but leave the taper. Next cut a big hole out of the bottom of the pot where you could place a stainless bowl for a lid/ head space so you wouldn't have any blowouts on a 10 gallon batch.

This is another reason I dont want to weld at this time because I want the ability to put this expensive funnel on a bigger pot in the future.

Lg

Stainless conical for under $100? ~Laughs~ You've got to be kidding. It absolutely can't be done!


Note: I provide these remarks hoping you're like me and only become more inspired when someone tells you something is impossible. I'm secretly hoping you'll soon prove me wrong and I'll shamelessly steal your design and profit from your ingenuity.

~quietly listens in~

aphid_rancher said:

How about a draw latch somewhat like on a toolbox or my dining room table?
It might take four or five to get a nice tight seal and you would most likely have to weld them to the pot. If I understand what you are after welds are not so much the problem as not being able to take it apart and cost to the non-welder.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...dition=116&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1006

Style G perhaps?

Click to expand...

So I just ordered 1767a14. I think the G's would be better but they are awfully expensive. I think I am going to glue (super glue metal adhesive) the latches to the funnel and cut slots in the rim of the pot then have the latches grab onto the rim. In reality it wont look bad. This will also work to keep the necessary skills down on a Barney level. When I want to move the funnel to a larger pot I will just hit the adhesive with some heat and the latches should jump right off.

Lg

chippy_23 said:

...
If so can you provide dimensions for me?
...

Click to expand...

I do not have one but...

From the web… “The Bayou Classic 36 Quart Stainless Steel Stock Pot measures (outside) 14.5 inches in diameter x 14.5 inches high.”

Link

Hope that helps.

I don't have any brilliant suggestions, but I do want to commend you for the project. I understand your goals and think it's great that you're on the verge of coming up with a great, affordable d.i.y. piece of equipment. Thanks!

I need to sort out how to put a valve on the bottom.

The screen is 1 inch wide:



I would like to utilize a small portion of the screen by drilling through the center hole with a 7/8 inch bit then shoving a stainless bulk head through (with a gasket for now and putting the valve on the bulkhead. Of course I am going to cut some of the snout off of the funnel. I want to use stainless because I would like to solder it on in another generation.

I have Norwegian power valves on my kettles right now so I am not too familiar with bulk heads. anyone have any guidance before I take off across the internet?


Also does anyone have one of these kettles?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRJJSM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

If so can you give me the dimensions?

Lg

I don't see this working without being welded. You might be shocked at how cheap a shop might charge you to do it.

interesting...

subscribing to see where this goes

Very cool idea, keep us posted!

I don't see this working without being welded. You might be shocked at how cheap a shop might charge you to do it.

Click to expand...

Around here, it's $25 to weld in a 1/2" fitting. When I was going to make a conical out of a keg, the welder wanted $350 to weld the funnel in. But hey, you never know. - Dwain

Ok to remind everyone where I was at on the valve. I tried to punch the screen out with a screwdriver and found that there were two pieces of stainless sandwiched and spot welded together. Bottom line is that all of the snout and bottom portion of the screen are one piece of metal and should be removed (to not harbor bacteria). I cut the snout off where the air vent indent terminates closest to the funnel body. (When you get one look at the snout and re-read that a few times and it will make sense).



I didnt do it correctly by any means. First I had the screen all rough and uneven when I took a 7/8 drill bit to it (I was attempting to put in 3/4 hardware). The only drill I have that will run that bit is this 2+ HP monster from the 70s and once it took hold it raised hell with the funnel. In hind sight I would take a +/- 3/8 inch bit and drill all of the outer holes out. That would leave some excess material but it wouldnt be a problem. In the end this is what I got.



Not to worry though because Lowes had my solution for me.



That brass fitting is a 1/2 inch pvc coupler. It has a little shoulder on it with a nut, throw the nut away and use a little O ring, put it through the snout. Since I mucked mine up so badly I had to go with the big rubber gasket on the left.

Her it is holding water.



For those of you who will be welding or soldering. I recommend taking a 3/4 inch stainless male coupling and grinding the treads off on one end and forcing it through the cut off snout then laying a bead on it. That should get rid of the ledges that are left using the shouldered coupler.

So I am at home today working on my house and up pulls the UPS guy and drops off the bucket ring from Gemplers. Guess what the funnel and ring fit almost perfectly, (but not water tight)



I am thinking a bead of food grade caulk around the inside of the ring and a chunk of tubing where the ring has a gap for the latch and it would be very water tight.

Now Where can we find a stainless pail that has the same opening as a brew bucket?

Lg

mcmaster has orings up to 16 inches, they also have 'cord stock' which is like O ring on a roll.

Hope that helps

So guys does anyone have one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018EAM7S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



On amazon it says: "Product Dimensions: 14 x 26 x 11.7 inches"

The 26" doesn't make any sense to me but I am assuming that 11.7 is the diameter. One way or the other I KNOW someone on this thread has one of these pots because it is one of the cheapest on Amazon.

So If you have one can you please confirm the dimensions for me?

Thanks,

Lg

MMMMKAY I called these guys up and they measured the pot for me and it was 11 7/8. I have one on order right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380281359337&fromMakeTrack=true#ht_2295wt_1139

BTW these guys are great to deal with.

If you can get that funnel to clamp seal to that pot, this could definitely work, however the ball valve might need to be redone.

You should cut an oval in the bottom of the pot and install a corny lid. That would be awesome.

very interesting...I think I need to follow this

Nice project...subscribed.

Bump! I must also see how this turns out! Looking good so far!

I was thinking of the seal between the funnel and pot...My pressure cooker has a silicone gasket. It is not as large as what you are working with but I know there are larger pressure cookers out there. Maybe a replacement gasket for one of those would be the ticket for a good seal?

If the funnel is of thin steel it could warp when it is full and you could loose your seal.

I've been following this one for a little while. Very interesting. I'm wondering if one were to weld it, what would be a good idea for an opening for cleaning. I saw someone mention a corny keg lid. I don't know if the bottom is thick enough for the lock-down dogs to engage. Anyway, watching with interest.

Ok I recieved the Mcmaster draw latches and mocked one up with the gasket covered lid between the pot and the funnel. I just have the latch scotch taped on. Looking at everything I am 99.9% confident that this solution will work.



Here is an explanation of how I will get the draw latch wire portions to grab the pot (hopefully it makes more sense with a pic in front of you).


I will cut grooves in the lip of the pot to allow the verticle portions to pass allowing the horizontal portion to be drawn up, allowing them to catch on the underside horizontal lip of the pot.

Then they will be drawn up this much (swag)


What you probably can't see is that the latches will be pulling back against the lip of the pot improving their likelihood of gaining purchase (cool word huh? I happen to be drinking Guiness) The tabs can be attached to the funnel via metal adhesive, bolts, or welding. If I use this option I will likely solder them on.

As for the thickness of the funnel. It is the same thickness as a cheap stainless mixing bowl

Why not knock it out tonight? I want to wait on the EBAY pot and 5/16 square silicon cord stock I have on order. I think that the lid ring is going to be the cleanest and quickest solution to this problem.

Lg

Reelale said:

I've been following this one for a little while. Very interesting. I'm wondering if one were to weld it, what would be a good idea for an opening for cleaning. I saw someone mention a corny keg lid. I don't know if the bottom is thick enough for the lock-down dogs to engage. Anyway, watching with interest.

Click to expand...

I think I would cut a big hole in the top and use a stainless mixing bowl and draw latches as the cover allowing for more head space and giving it the same classic look as a Blichmann and then put a corny lid on top of the mixing bowl. That is just my .02

chippy_23 said:

I think I would cut a big hole in the top and use a stainless mixing bowl and draw latches as the cover allowing for more head space and giving it the same classic look as a Blichmann and then put a corny lid on top of the mixing bowl. That is just my .02

Click to expand...

You wouldn't need the corny lid with a mixing bowl as the lid. You could also make a gasket out of sheet silicone. Hmmmm......

Reelale said:

You wouldn't need the corny lid with a mixing bowl as the lid. You could also make a gasket out of sheet silicone. Hmmmm......

Click to expand...

sheet silicone...yeah. I would want a very reliable seal here. If you cut or lap tubing I dont think you will get it.