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Old 08-04-2009, 01:24 AM   #11
kladue
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There are 2 types of silver bearing solder, the low temp ~430-450 degree alloy that is mostly tin, and the high temp brazing alloy.
If you have the low temp solder you should have a clear liquid flux to go with it. Prep solder joint with sandpaper to take off the oxide coat on the stainless and apply coating of the liquid flux and heat metal gently and test for solder melting. You may have to apply the flux and reheat area until solder flows over work area. Place coupling or fitting that has been prepped the same way and apply heat until solder melts and add more solder to fill gaps.
With the high temp silver brazing prep area with sandpaper to remove oxide coating, apply white paste flux at joint and outwards at least 1/2" to protect the stainless, match work area flux application on inside to protect that side. If you want you can make a ring of the solder and place it in joint then heat until solder flows, of feed it by hand. The high temp silver solder will follow the heat, so if the area you heat is not where you want the solder to go be forwarned that it will migrate to hotter area. The main trick to this is applying the heat to the thickest/highest mass item first then sweep flame onto thinner material while trying not to overheat work area.



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Old 08-04-2009, 02:32 PM   #12
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I'm looking around YouTube. Is there a good how-to video or write up on how to silver solder a coupling onto a repurposed keg?



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Old 08-04-2009, 04:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue View Post
There are 2 types of silver bearing solder, the low temp ~430-450 degree alloy that is mostly tin, and the high temp brazing alloy.
If you have the low temp solder you should have a clear liquid flux to go with it. Prep solder joint with sandpaper to take off the oxide coat on the stainless and apply coating of the liquid flux and heat metal gently and test for solder melting. You may have to apply the flux and reheat area until solder flows over work area. Place coupling or fitting that has been prepped the same way and apply heat until solder melts and add more solder to fill gaps.
With the high temp silver brazing prep area with sandpaper to remove oxide coating, apply white paste flux at joint and outwards at least 1/2" to protect the stainless, match work area flux application on inside to protect that side. If you want you can make a ring of the solder and place it in joint then heat until solder flows, of feed it by hand. The high temp silver solder will follow the heat, so if the area you heat is not where you want the solder to go be forwarned that it will migrate to hotter area. The main trick to this is applying the heat to the thickest/highest mass item first then sweep flame onto thinner material while trying not to overheat work area.
Thanks for the info, I will try and track some of this down, the closest weld shop didn't have much selection in this department.

Also, are you suppose to solder the inside of the keg and if so how in the hell would you do that?
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:17 PM   #14
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I'm looking around YouTube. Is there a good how-to video or write up on how to silver solder a coupling onto a repurposed keg?
This is what I have watched like 5 times so far.

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Old 08-04-2009, 04:30 PM   #15
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The you tube video shows the low temp solder method, the high temp is nearly identical, and no you do not need to solder inside of keg. The reason to apply solder flux to inside is keep stainless from changing colors and oxidizing when heat is applied to outside.

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Last edited by kladue; 08-04-2009 at 05:42 PM. Reason: fogot to add "Not"
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:38 PM   #16
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The you tube video shows the low temp solder method, the high temp is nearly identical, and no you do need to solder inside of keg. The reason to apply solder flux to inside is keep stainless from changing colors and oxidizing when heat is applied to outside.
Thanks, I was going to flux this inside of the keg, just not sure if it needed the solder too. So yes or no? I am confused by your sentence "and no you do need to solder inside of keg."
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:41 PM   #17
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Sorry for the confusion, should have taken more time to proof response before submitting it.

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Old 08-04-2009, 06:08 PM   #18
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Sorry for the confusion, should have taken more time to proof response before submitting it.
Great! What I got yesterday was a Stay Brite Kit with Stay Brite Solders and Stay CLean Liquid Soldering Flux. I am not sure of the percentage of silver to tin in it but I do know there is not much of it. I am not even sure I could do this one job with this amount.

Would like lowes or HD care this type of solder?

Sorry for sound ignorant, but I am a newbie here.
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Last edited by humann_brewing; 08-04-2009 at 09:16 PM. Reason: tin not copper
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:25 PM   #19
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If you have the StayBrite8 you are good to go, sandpaper area where you want to solder, apply thin coat of liquid flux on the outside only as the stainless will not get overheated like brazing temperatures cause. Heat joint area gently by sweeping torch flame across area, and test with solder when flame is directed away from joint area. You may have to reapply the flux a couple times to get stainless to accept solder, apply flux then rub solder across area to coat metal with solder, you could use a dry rag to wipe away excess solder if necessary. When solder has covered entire joint area prep fitting the same way to get the solder to adhere to the fitting, then position prepared fitting and apply heat until solder melts and fill any gaps by applying more solder. When joint cools, wash flux off and scotch brite the surface clean.

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Old 08-04-2009, 09:14 PM   #20
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Thanks, kladue. Naturally, I'll get some scrap metal to test technique with first.



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