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Old 03-23-2007, 07:51 PM   #1
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Default Stainless braid false bottom

For many years I have used a slotted copper false bottom on my MLT. It really has been fine, and made some wonderful beers, but I am always in search of a new project. So I decided to build a deluxe, stainless braid false bottom (SFB). I blame this all on Dude because he sent me some wonderful brews. I first had his Pliny the Bastard and thought "why not make a new SFB?" Then I drank his Red Eye Rye and thought, "Why not make it a double?"

So I got busy with my saw, torch, copper and stainless and came up with this:



As you can see, it is a double looped SFB. In the process I came up with an idea that I utilized. I don't know if others have thought of this or not, but WTH, I did. The stainless braid is very flexible and tends to want to stretch out. So I ran a length of 18 gauge copper wire through the lenght of braid and secured it on each end with my clamps, creating a limit or brake to the expansion. Clever idea, if I don't say so myself.

Installed in my MLT the SFB looks like this:



So that is my gift to the Home Brew Gawds this day. I did not brew the 777 and will use that brew next week as a test of my new SFB. But I thought some of you might like the idea and appreciate the effort. But don't thank me, thank Dude. This project was 100% Dude's brew powered.


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Old 03-23-2007, 07:59 PM   #2
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That looks awesome BP. I love mine, but it has its issues. I think it might be time for a refub. based on your design.

Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:03 PM   #3
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No problem. My best friend is a Lowes employee and the more projects i can send his way the happier his wife will be.
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:08 PM   #4
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That looks great, I don't know how much flow you are going to get from the center loop due to the path of least resistance thing but it just might work. You have plenty of surface area with the outer loop anyways so it will work fine.

I went from a FB to a copper manifold and then switched to the braid like you did. Not much difference between the copper and braid except the braid stays clean and doesn't turn green.

I just went with one long hose and double looped it. It's about 2 years old now and about time for a new one...
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:13 PM   #5
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It looks great! Can ya make me one?

I ran across one similar where the guy put a stainless spring inside the braid--that held up the integrity of the braid. I imagine in that huge kettle of yours 50 lbs. of grain on top of it might crush the braid.

I need to get on this. I like the copper H, that will defintely keep it from floating around, I'd guess.
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dude
I ran across one similar where the guy put a stainless spring inside the braid--that held up the integrity of the braid.
Now that is an idea. Again, I can't say if it is worth the effort or not, but hey, it is another HB project. Waht more can I ask?
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:35 PM   #7
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I am presumining that the brais=ded stainless will act a bit like a corrigated pipe and hold its form due to the relatively equal pressure of the grain all around it. Am I off base (on this)?
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:44 PM   #8
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do you fly or batch sparge?

While what you made is beautiful and original, unless you fly sparge, I just don't see it working much better than 2" or 12" of ss straight braid, as long as sugary water comes out the bulkead valve...what is the difference?
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:14 PM   #9
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I have put 75lbs of grain on top of mine without any problems. If you bring your mash paddle all the way to the bottom there is a chance of picking it up but I haven't had that problem.

If you are fly sparging it is best to loop it, a single loop works just as well as a double loop I have found out.

If you are batch sparging then a straight piece with the end crimped works fine.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:59 PM   #10
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FWIW, John Palmer's book claims 1" SST braid won't collapse under the weight of grains, but I've yet to verify it empirically. I did have to go up to 1/2" fittings on the tee, however


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