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**Boar Beer** · 02-16-2012, 12:14 PM

Stubbornman

I am glad you like it.

I am always impressed with this site... I never could imagine that I could share such a thing with so many people. Usually one post gets about 1000 hits in 2 days. It took me a long time to figure out that even when i don't get a question or comment that lots of people follow this build. As you know its a working brewery today and i guess lots of people are interested in it. Any ways i am a DIY guy and love sharing stuff with this interesting community of home brewers.

geniz · 03-17-2012, 05:42 AM

Subscribed! Wonderful story!
Getting ready to go nano and debating gas vs electric.

I am thinking electric might be the way to go for cost and venting issues.

**Boar Beer** · 03-19-2012, 12:35 PM

If you are at the planning stages and are looking at a 1bb system then electric is the way to go.

geniz · 03-19-2012, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boar Beer

If you are at the planning stages and are looking at a 1bb system then electric is the way to go.

I am really leaning that way. Especially since the warehouse is a blank space right now. I should have no problem pulling one or two 60 amp circuits. And converting kettles shouldn't be a problem. Did you silver solder or weld your couplers?

DarkBrood · 03-19-2012, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geniz

I am really leaning that way. Especially since the warehouse is a blank space right now. I should have no problem pulling one or two 60 amp circuits. And converting kettles shouldn't be a problem. Did you silver solder or weld your couplers?

If your space isn't equipped with gas yet, then electric is certainly going to be cheaper to set up - adding extra electric capacity and a raised electric bill will almost always cost less than the licensing and permitting, inspections for ventilation/etc., licensed installation of the gas plumbing and connectors, plus a semi-regular delivery of gas! Not to mention that propane tanks - even big 'uns - can run out at inconvenient times! And for semi-commercial open-burner operations, many states and municipalities don't allow a live-feed natural gas line and require the use of storage tanks (expensive to buy and license/install) that are still subject to running empty. Get yourself a good generator and even the worst of Nor'easters can't stop an all-electric brewery!!!

Boy · 04-09-2012, 11:33 AM

Another question for you guys. What kind of valve did you install for the drain on the Brute MT? Did you go with a bulkhead fitting? Also how do you measure your water amounts for strike and sparge volumes? Is this why you have the other brute set up as a HLT?

Love the Brute mash tun and think it would work as a two vessel with a tankless water heater. Just trying to nail down details.

Thanks again

**Boar Beer** · 04-09-2012, 12:11 PM

Boy
We used the weldless fitting from our 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler set up. Simple and easy. The bending the red pex tube was the hardest part of the job The two photos show the set up.
As for the strike water it’s a trial and error thing. Some where there is a formula you can use to estimate the correct amount but basically you can bring in water at 180 F for ¾ your volume required then use hot or cold water to achieve your desired mash temp. By the way the heat loss during the mash is only 1-2 degrees F. Much less than if you were using a SS barrel.

rawlus · 04-09-2012, 02:00 PM

Subscribed.

dallasdb · 08-04-2012, 04:10 AM

Awesome thread!

**Boar Beer** · 08-04-2012, 04:39 PM

Thank you
It was a fun project and is still being used every day. seven 1bb conicals making 9 different commercial brews (depending upon the time of year) I would love to build a one man bottling line of some kind. I just cant figure out how to do it yet