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Old 08-24-2009, 12:31 PM   #1
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Default "spare parts" of tower

Hi All,

I know these arent spare...and I have a feeling I am going to end up tearing my tower off because I completely forgot about it after it caused me to start over. I mentioned in my kegerator building post that the gasket that I got with my tower didn't match the holes on the tower...i found this out after i used the gasket for the template and....DOH!! thank god for extra plywood and a jig saw. at any rate...i also got two plastic washers but I am unsure where they are really supposed to go. One more thing...the faucets, is it normal for some thread to show when they are screwed into the tower?

another question...I realized there is no way I know of, to get the top off of this tower. at first this was just a PIA, but what happens if I need to check the beer lines or change them??

I wish I had found you guys before I ordered my tower and faucets! but, alas I have it and I cannot return it....and its attached to my fridge already!

this is the tower I got...not from here, but the exact one:

Austin Homebrew Supply

TIA,

M

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Old 08-25-2009, 12:30 AM   #2
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anyone??

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Old 08-25-2009, 12:47 AM   #3
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Looks to me the 2 extra washers go on the ends where the keg would hit the connection. But, I am assuming that you are using corny kegs. I don't know what those disconnects look like but I know I use Ball lock disconnects (link to what they look like).

Ball Lock Disconnect- 1/4"MFL Liquid - Soda Kegs & Disconnects - Kegging

I am pretty sure you should not see any of the thread on the faucets. Are you using the wrench to tighten up the fitting? Did you make sure it is lined up in the teeth correctly?

Finally, every tower that I have ever seen allows you to take the top off and by the look at that pic you should be able to take that top off too. It might be tight since it is brand new. Try pushing it out instead of pulling it off.

Hope that helps.

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Old 08-25-2009, 01:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bean View Post
Looks to me the 2 extra washers go on the ends where the keg would hit the connection. But, I am assuming that you are using corny kegs. I don't know what those disconnects look like but I know I use Ball lock disconnects (link to what they look like).

Ball Lock Disconnect- 1/4"MFL Liquid - Soda Kegs & Disconnects - Kegging

I am pretty sure you should not see any of the thread on the faucets. Are you using the wrench to tighten up the fitting? Did you make sure it is lined up in the teeth correctly?

Finally, every tower that I have ever seen allows you to take the top off and by the look at that pic you should be able to take that top off too. It might be tight since it is brand new. Try pushing it out instead of pulling it off.

Hope that helps.

thank you for your reply. I do have ball lock cornie kegs...I am waiting for a disconnect to arrive in the mail. they forgot it on my order.

As for the faucets, I am terrified to take a wrench to the piece that rotates as its so shiny...I am afraid it will scratch. I have hand tightended it only, and made sure the teeth were correct. I honestly cannot imagine it getting much tighter though.

I tried getting the top of that dang thing off both ways. I tried pulling and I tried pushing from the inside....it seems pretty stuck on there! I will try to push it out again....as I think pulling it is a lost cause.

thanks again for replying
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Old 08-25-2009, 02:14 AM   #5
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Well I am sure the top comes off some how. That's the only way you can change the beer lines. But, try calling the place you ordered it from or even Austin homebrew to see what they say about how to disassemble it.

As for the faucets, the only way you are ever going to know if it is tight enough or not is to fill them up and see if they leak. No better time then when you sanitize the lines. There is a specific wrench that you can get to prevent from scratching the chrome. It fits in the little slits on the collar on the shank. (link below)

faucet wrench

Let me know if you need anymore help. I just finished my keggerator project about a month ago so the research is still pretty fresh in my head.

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Old 08-25-2009, 11:56 AM   #6
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A short piece of broomstick or dowel rod inserted up from the bottom should tap the top off.

And until you get a faucet, wrench a pice of rubber wrapped around the collar will protect it while you use channel locks.

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Old 08-25-2009, 07:22 PM   #7
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Thank you both. I will be trying a broom tonight and I will have to search for some rubber. But it looks like I need to go ahead with buying the wrench as well.

Thanks!!

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Old 08-25-2009, 07:32 PM   #8
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I use a strap wrench on the faucets.I can't remember clearly been so long since I had them apart but I believe the washer is for the faucet/shank hookup.Threads alone wont make a very good seal

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Old 08-25-2009, 10:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springer View Post
I use a strap wrench on the faucets.I can't remember clearly been so long since I had them apart but I believe the washer is for the faucet/shank hookup.Threads alone wont make a very good seal
hmmm...yeah, strap wrench seems like it would work as well. I just cant believe its going to get much tighter...or tight enough to shrink the amount exposed thread. There is a good 1/4" of thread on the faucet.i have a double faucet and its like that on both!

those washers arent for the faucets, I dont think. If you try to put a washer in line with the whole setup the faucet wont screw on at all. there is a built-in kind of washer in the faucet.

off to go try the broomstick for the top though
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:04 AM   #10
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any chance on getting a pic of how much thread is showing? Is it the same on both faucets?

Hope the broomstick worked!

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