Newest Threads

**Bobby_M** · 09-15-2011, 04:40 PM

The only thing I wonder is whether it's better to solder the locknut to the interior wall so that when you tighten the element in, it's pulling the solder joint tighter. In other words, the whole assembly isn't hanging off the solder. I thought maybe the curved wall of the vessel would be an issue for sealing but if I try this, I'd use a few small C-clamps to draw the curved walls tight to the flat of the nut. Maybe it won't work.

**lschiavo** · 09-16-2011, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

I'd use a few small C-clamps to draw the curved walls tight to the flat of the nut. Maybe it won't work.

I wouldn't solder it while clamped. This would pre-stress the joint and make it more likely to fail IMO.

Fortunatly for me, I have a greenlee hydraulic punch that I was able to flatten and dimple all the locations I soldered. Im sure a tool could be made like the pull through device but to flatten around the hole instead.

**BigJim_inFLA** · 09-18-2011, 02:23 AM

Just wanted to say thank you for all the tips and tricks. Just started an electric brew kettle and soldered the 1" nut for the element and the 1/4" half coupling for the sight glass. Worked like a charm!

StMarcos · 09-18-2011, 06:43 AM

I did mention this many pages back, but it is worth saying again. You can use a standard mapp gas bottle with a regular torch (no oxygen), and use the 56% Ag solder to braze brass to stainless or stainless to stainless. I'm talking about sanke keg type thicknesses and regular brass or stainless nipples. It's MUCH easier than messing about with flaring, soft solder, and the liquid flux. Not only that, but the joint will be stronger. The paste flux (such as handy flux) is much easier to deal with than the liquid HCl flux. I'm all for making the most of Home Depot stuff to get by with brewing stuff, but when you have a thread this long, with people trying all sorts of measures JUST to make a nipple securely attached to a keg with soft solder, why not just get a bottle of mapp and some 56% Ag and be done with it? You don't have to learn to TIG or oxyacetylene, and you can still call it diy (no paying welders), and it's just better than using 4% Ag soft solder.

gmartin · 09-18-2011, 04:10 PM

`For whatever it's worth, the Harris documentation states that a properly soldered joint will be stronger than a brazed joint, because the higher heat of brazing weakens the metal to be joined. Dunno, but I suppose that they know their products.

Quaffer · 09-19-2011, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StMarcos

I did mention this many pages back, but it is worth saying again. You can use a standard mapp gas bottle with a regular torch (no oxygen), and use the 56% Ag solder to braze brass to stainless or stainless to stainless. I'm talking about sanke keg type thicknesses and regular brass or stainless nipples. It's MUCH easier than messing about with flaring, soft solder, and the liquid flux. Not only that, but the joint will be stronger. The paste flux (such as handy flux) is much easier to deal with than the liquid HCl flux. I'm all for making the most of Home Depot stuff to get by with brewing stuff, but when you have a thread this long, with people trying all sorts of measures JUST to make a nipple securely attached to a keg with soft solder, why not just get a bottle of mapp and some 56% Ag and be done with it? You don't have to learn to TIG or oxyacetylene, and you can still call it diy (no paying welders), and it's just better than using 4% Ag soft solder.

That may be true, but that is what I tried first and I had miserable luck with it. I brazed a 1/2" copper adapter to my Sanke. It worked for two brews, and then it snapped right off. I could see that there had been almost no adhesion to the stainless. I must have used the wrong silver rod (don't know the Ag content) or flux. I tried to repair it but with no better success. The soft-soldered joints on the other hand are holding up just fine so far after many brews.

loldmopar · 09-26-2011, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewmoor

This video was one of my inspirations too. It was the reason I decided to braze my fittings instead of paying a welder. Here is another good one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dF-l-ebX9o

As I'm researching this to figure it all out, I saw the credits at the end of this video. David Holden is a family friend. Looks like I'm going to his shop in the morning to learn how to braze and maybe braze the couplers into my kegs.