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Old 08-03-2011, 04:18 PM   #581
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gmartin, i believe for the 1/4" couplings there was something made out of brass that worked well in this thread. for 1 1/2" triclover you basically just need to get the OD of the "welding" end of the triclover and then find a butt-weld reducer at mcmaster/grainger/wherever that has a smaller OD on one end and a larger OD on the other end. you may not be able to find a tool that you can pull all the way through (may be too big on the big end), but if you give it a couple turns at a time and check it you should end up with a perfect fit.



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Old 08-03-2011, 06:40 PM   #582
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I have been trying to solder a 1/2in nut onto my kettle for a while now and I'm about ready to give up. Each time I try the solder pops off like it didn't even tough the kettle.
I'm using lead free plumbers solder, flux paste that came with the solder
Here is the link to what I got

I sand the kettle down nicely, applied the flux, heated the kettle and nut, then start pressing the solder to my connection with the flame off to the side not directly to the location the solder is in. Waited till it was cool enough to the touch and it pops right off. I have only soldered electrical wires before and that was twice at most. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!



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Old 08-03-2011, 06:55 PM   #583
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The solder "might" work with Stainless Steel but the flux will not and that is the base of your problem.
You need to get Harris Stay-Clean Liquid flux.

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Old 08-03-2011, 07:27 PM   #584
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Ok I just searched around and the only place that carries it is a local welding shop that closes at 5pm. Sending the GF to get it while she is home haha

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Old 08-03-2011, 08:24 PM   #585
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Concentric Reducer 1.5" x 1" - Grainger #1rt27
1" half coupling - Grainger #2ua77

the coupling only threads into my heating element about half a turn. hoping that i can get enough teflon tape on it to seal or shim the seal with the utility box.

the small end of the concentric reducer is smaller than the coupling, and the large end is bigger than the coupling... so i will have no problem getting it started but will need to be careful as to not go too far into the reducer and make the hole too big.

just need to find a drill bit slightly smaller than the coupler and i should be ready to test this out


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Old 08-03-2011, 09:10 PM   #586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdragon82 View Post
I have been trying to solder a 1/2in nut onto my kettle for a while now and I'm about ready to give up. Each time I try the solder pops off like it didn't even tough the kettle.
I'm using lead free plumbers solder, flux paste that came with the solder
Here is the link to what I got

I sand the kettle down nicely, applied the flux, heated the kettle and nut, then start pressing the solder to my connection with the flame off to the side not directly to the location the solder is in. Waited till it was cool enough to the touch and it pops right off. I have only soldered electrical wires before and that was twice at most. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
As mentioned the flux is key. Overheating will burn off the flux and cause problems. I found slowly applying heat to all the parts just until the solder starts to melt and flow works best. Also, making a ring of solder as shown earlier in the thread makes for a very nice looking joint. I clean everything up, set the fitting, place the ring of solder, douse it with flux and then heat slowly...works everytime. Good luck.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:54 PM   #587
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the parts i ordered from grainger made a fantastic dimple for a 1" coupling!

Drilled a 1.5" hole with a hole saw on the drillpress


Assembled the tool


pulled the tapered coupling partially through the keg lid, stopping every few turns to check the dimple


view of my 1" coupling dimple from the inside


view of my 1" coupling dimple from the outside


i didn't use a big enough spacer on the outside (white pvc in the pics) so i couldn't get the dimple quite big enough. will head to home depot and get some deeper, wider ID PVC and finish the dimple and pull the coupler through. i won't solder it into place here but instead drill a new hole in the keg and mount it properly in my HLT!

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Old 08-06-2011, 03:18 AM   #588
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Let us know how it goes, you may find getting an even dimple on the rounded side of the keg shell to be a challenge.

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Old 08-06-2011, 07:25 PM   #589
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klyph, the lid has a complex shape to it so it should't be too much of a problem maybe i'll try today

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Old 08-10-2011, 03:45 PM   #590
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Bobby M. early in the thread said he was using a 150 watt soldering iron. People scoffed at this, and I think the overall sense was he was "kidding." And he never really fully responded.

I'm having trouble controlling the heat from my torch, and tried a 100 watt iron I inherited from my Grandfathe - it's probably eighty years old, with a Montgomery Wards tag for $1.79 still attached. Anyway, I find it works really well for tinning both keg and the hardware, much more manageable than the torch. Also was able to solder a locknut to a keg. The pyramid shaped tip can simultaneously heat the surfaces of the keg and the fitting, and flows solder onto both surfaces. While this looks watertight, I don't think the keg and nut get hot enough for solder to actually flow much between the flat surface of the nut and the keg, so maybe not the best joint possible. I think a bigger iron would be better; also, may try torching to reflow the solder.



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