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Old 07-27-2011, 04:37 PM   #571
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Originally Posted by adivito View Post
While its being discussed, quick question on coupler for the element. Has any had an issue or successfully used the coupling since one is nps and the other is npt?
they say the solution is LOTS of teflon tape + the gasket that comes with the element.


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Old 07-27-2011, 04:48 PM   #572
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Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
they say the solution is LOTS of teflon tape + the gasket that comes with the element.
Or find someone with a 1" NPT tap and just run it all the way through the coupler's threads.


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Old 07-27-2011, 07:20 PM   #573
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No problem with a silicon oring and a 1" half coupler. Did not even use that much tape. I would suggest getting a socket for the element so you can torque it on there. They are like 10 bucks on ebay.

Btw, not sure if you saw my other post or not, but a half coupler from bargin is od is 1.5"s

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Old 07-27-2011, 07:28 PM   #574
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thx milldoggy. i saw your post and then dug into mcmaster and found theirs measured at 1.6"... a coupling for my tool will be another 10 from mcmaster to get a proper tool to pull through. then i'd need another, wider coupler on the outside.

http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20110613/45605K725L.GIF

so a new tapered coupler for the inside, a new coupler on the outside to pull into and a larger washer to put on the large end of the coupler and i should be good to go...

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Old 07-27-2011, 07:59 PM   #575
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just realized there's a grainger office near me so i ordered a half coupling and a new pullthrough tool from them. will be here next week

coupling for electrical element: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SHARON-PIPING-Half-Coupling-2UA77

reducer coupling to make dimple: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SHARON-PIPING-Concentric-Reducer-1RTW7

i won't pull that reducer coupling all the way through because it's large end OD is much larger than what i need, just go a little at a time and check fitment then pull the half coupler through for a press fit.

once the parts get here i can get a measurement and find the appropriate hole saw to make the hole and test this out!

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Old 07-28-2011, 04:58 PM   #576
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I'm using 1.5" Tri-Clover to make it easy to remove the element for cleaning the element and pot. I had swagman weld a 1" NPS locknut to a 1.5" TC ferrule and I soldered another 1.5" ferrule to the pot.

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Old 07-28-2011, 07:06 PM   #577
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orange: did you use a dimple tool to do the solder? what size hole did you punch?

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Old 07-28-2011, 11:16 PM   #578
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Great thread -
1) soldered my first 1/2" coupling to a keg the other day. Looks like hell, whole was to big. But it's watertight! I have a slightly larger coupling from another source, so I'll redo it and pull it thru for a tighter fit.

2) harris stay-bright paste flux was all I could find locally. works sort of - a mess to clean up. I've got liquid on order. My initial problem was too much heat...

3) got the keg-tool parts from McMaster Carr and remaining bits at Lowes and Menards. Why was the 5/8 bolt used in the first place? And how was the reducer reamed out? Like a previous poster, I found a 9/16 bolt which fits fine, and will use it for now.

4) re 1" NPS - stout tanks and kettles has a 1 1/2" triclamp fitting with the 1" NPS for $15. I'm using one for my rims heater. I see orangehero is using a 1 1/2" triclover ferrule to mount his element to the pot. Think I'll do that too.

5) I had issues with a heater element fitting a 1" NPT as well. I suspect the threads are cast rather than machined (nasty/cheap). This might be a consistent problem with some element manufacturers, and a consistent no-problem with others. Unfortunately, dunno who made my 250/55 lo heat element. Has anyone tried an NPT die on the element or NPS tap on the coupling?

6) Nostalgia, GreenMonti, I really appreciate the work on the keg-tool and the posting of the parts source and parts numbers. And slakwhere is looking into one for mounting a 1" coupling. I think the thread has brought out some techniques which give consistently good results.

My best to alll.....

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Old 08-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #579
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Thanks to all who contributed to this thread!

I got 2 1/2 couplers and a 1" couplers from the supply store downtown, and put one of the 1/2 inchers on the lathe at work and turned it into a forming tool. They didn't have half couplers, so I cut the other 1/2" coupler in half and cleaned the cut ends up.

Last night I got a 5/16" bolt and a couple of washers and nuts, and drilled a 5/16" hole in a piece of practice SS and used my impact hammer to draw a hole out.

IT WORKED BEAUTIFULLY! I used a little grease to keep all the parts happy and turned the air down so that it slowly pulled through.

I can't wait to grab some flux and try flowing the solder.

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Old 08-03-2011, 04:14 PM   #580
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In answer to my own question about the 9/16 vs the 5/8 bolt size for the 1/2 inch keg tool, I note the 9/16 bolt I got is only threaded about 1 1/2 inches at the end, meaning to draw the reducing coupling thru the hole and form the dimple, I'll have to change spacers of some kind. McMasterCarr does not have fully threaded 9/16 bolts but does have fully threaded 5/8 bolts. I suspect that's why nostalgia went with the 5/8 size.

Homercidal - nice you have access to a lathe. That would make this easier than trying to find fittings to repurpose.

I see a need for kegtools for 1/4" couplings and 1 1/2" triclover ferrules, as well as the 1/2" couplings and 1" couplings already addressed.


Maybe one of our fittings suppliers would consider putting together a few parts kits for resale, machining those parts not readily available? I know it's been suggested that someone stock the staybright soldering kits. - My stayclean liquid flux is still backordered from Airgas here in Lansing.



Whatever.....



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