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Old 04-23-2011, 04:19 PM   #561
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Originally Posted by klyph View Post
Ya, I used up a handful of stainless nuts. As soon as one started binding a little, I chucked it and grabbed a new one.
There is no earthly reason to use stainless bolts or nut for this tool, and you discovered the best reason NOT to use them. SS nuts are much softer than carbon steel. Stick with carbon steel and use lube on the threads.

FWIW, I had ordered the other parts from McMaster, including the large SS coupling to use on the outside as a mandrel. I promptly lost it before the first use (fell out of my truck, it appears). I just took the reducing fitting to HD and picked up a 1" NPT black iron coupling. Works just fine, costs about $10 less.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:13 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch View Post
There is no earthly reason to use stainless bolts or nut for this tool, and you discovered the best reason NOT to use them. SS nuts are much softer than carbon steel. Stick with carbon steel and use lube on the threads.

FWIW, I had ordered the other parts from McMaster, including the large SS coupling to use on the outside as a mandrel. I promptly lost it before the first use (fell out of my truck, it appears). I just took the reducing fitting to HD and picked up a 1" NPT black iron coupling. Works just fine, costs about $10 less.
I almost completely agree with this 100%. The reducer should definitely be stainless. I think the large coupler should be stainless too but a non-stainless large coupler would probably be fine. The other parts definitely don't need to be stainless. In fact, they probably shouldn't be just as you said.
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:00 AM   #563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch View Post
There is no earthly reason to use stainless bolts or nut for this tool, and you discovered the best reason NOT to use them. SS nuts are much softer than carbon steel. Stick with carbon steel and use lube on the threads.

FWIW, I had ordered the other parts from McMaster, including the large SS coupling to use on the outside as a mandrel. I promptly lost it before the first use (fell out of my truck, it appears). I just took the reducing fitting to HD and picked up a 1" NPT black iron coupling. Works just fine, costs about $10 less.
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Originally Posted by itsme6582 View Post
I almost completely agree with this 100%. The reducer should definitely be stainless. I think the large coupler should be stainless too but a non-stainless large coupler would probably be fine. The other parts definitely don't need to be stainless. In fact, they probably shouldn't be just as you said.
If the large coupler is not SS then one should plan on polishing the area since a good deal of pressure is being applied and the iron will impart to some degree on the surface. That will lead to some rusting.

If the area is polished and the iron is removed then there shouldn't be an issue. Just be aware.

Prost
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:57 PM   #564
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I used a 1" iron pipe fitting for the outside and a brass pipe fitting (1/2" FNTP to 3/4" FGH) I ground down for making the dimple. Worked fine, no rust after a quick cleaning.

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Old 07-22-2011, 02:39 PM   #565
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Finally got around to making some progress on my rig last night. Did my first couple fittings. The regular, dippled, pulled through coupler are crazy easy and pro looking even on my first try. The element nut was a different story... wow. That was tricky. It took me two tries to get it done and I had a blob of solder run away on me. I'll need to do some filing and buffing to get that off, but it is functional and decent looking. I found it much easier to do a regular solder with the element nut that try to use the wraps under the nut.

Thanks for the guidance everyone.

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Old 07-26-2011, 11:32 PM   #566
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i have done a couple of couplings for a buddy at 1/2" using this method and it's fantastic! a hole saw on my drill press was much easier than a step bit, and i think i'll be going Greenlee punch for the ultimate in ease.

anyone know what size taper coupling i would need to solder in a 1" half coupling for an electric element? i've seen the nuts soldered right to the vessel but it seems a pulled through half coupling would be easier to solder and possibly a bit stronger...

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Old 07-27-2011, 01:40 AM   #567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
i have done a couple of couplings for a buddy at 1/2" using this method and it's fantastic! a hole saw on my drill press was much easier than a step bit, and i think i'll be going Greenlee punch for the ultimate in ease.

anyone know what size taper coupling i would need to solder in a 1" half coupling for an electric element? i've seen the nuts soldered right to the vessel but it seems a pulled through half coupling would be easier to solder and possibly a bit stronger...
best thing is get the 1" coupling and measure the OD then you know what size hole you need to drill

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Old 07-27-2011, 01:54 AM   #568
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Had one handy, measured around 1.5 inches on my tape, not caliper here

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Old 07-27-2011, 02:49 AM   #569
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best thing is get the 1" coupling and measure the OD then you know what size hole you need to drill

-=Jason=-
damn you and your logic!

guess i'll place a bargain fittings order and then figure out what size hole saw and tapered conduit i need
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:32 PM   #570
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While its being discussed, quick question on coupler for the element. Has any had an issue or successfully used the coupling since one is nps and the other is npt?

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