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01-08-2010, 03:00 PM
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#21
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Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,682
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Ok I followed through and soldered a stainless and a brass fitting (wondered if that would work) into one of my kettles. Its the thinnest wall kettle I own. Both holes were tight enough to almost thread into so I just cleaned them real well, fluxed inside out and the fitting and soldered it like it was copper!
Seems very sturdy even without any backer inside on the thread. The only thing that would worry me is if someone dry fired a kettle. As long as there is liquid in it the solder should stay put.
Last edited by BargainFittings; 08-19-2010 at 11:18 PM.
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01-08-2010, 08:13 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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Looks good to me.
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01-08-2010, 08:27 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,090
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That looks good.
Should be pretty strong too. Unless you drop your kettle, there should not be much directional force on the fittings.
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01-08-2010, 08:33 PM
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#24
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Death by Magumba!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,254
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I think I am going to be ordering me some flux soon brother!
Thanks for taking the time to show us  |
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01-08-2010, 08:40 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wappingers falls NY
Posts: 4,966
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I am going the welding shop Saturday they should have the Stay Clean
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01-08-2010, 09:39 PM
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#26
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BIAB Haberdasher
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 3,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings
I just took a hammer to it. I beat the tar out of that washer and it just bent a little.
Did not budge the solder joint.
I really am impressed!
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Yea agreed, myself and perhaps others tend to think of solder as a soft metal of little strength. How quickly we forget that it is "metal" and if well bonded can make a pretty damn tuff connection. Nice work BF. |
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01-09-2010, 01:32 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , NC
Posts: 16,490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings
The only thing that would worry me is if someone dry fired a kettle. As long as there is liquid in it the solder should stay put.
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Would dry firing liquify the solder again? I didn't know you could solder stainless without silver solder. I'll have to remember this. But I've had zero problems with the weldless fittings I purchased from you, so I'm good. Those solder joints look pretty good to me. Everything I try to sweat or solder always ends up looking like a piece of coral.
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Quote:
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01-09-2010, 03:06 AM
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#28
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Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale
Would dry firing liquify the solder again? I didn't know you could solder stainless without silver solder. I'll have to remember this. But I've had zero problems with the weldless fittings I purchased from you, so I'm good. Those solder joints look pretty good to me. Everything I try to sweat or solder always ends up looking like a piece of coral.
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If you got it up to the melt temp of the solder it would. I would think the plastic handle on the valve would burn before that and alert you  |
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01-09-2010, 10:51 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Silver Spring, MD.
Posts: 1,202
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Looks pretty good! I played around with an oxy acetylene torch, some SS keg tops, standard plumbing soder and some copper fittings. Out of 10 attempts I was only to make one sweet looking joint. I was using the harris stay clean liquid flux too. I think the oxy acetylene torch may have been too hot though. I did not sand the area before hand so that may have been an issue. But, you have indeed inspired me to try it again. How long did you let the flux sit on the SS soldered? I was recently playing with the harris stay clean flux, plumbing solder and a propane torch and I was soldering all kinds of stuff in the basement, so I need to give it another go.
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Last edited by Skins_Brew; 01-09-2010 at 11:00 AM.
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01-09-2010, 12:14 PM
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#30
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Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skins_Brew
How long did you let the flux sit on the SS soldered?
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I actually lightly sanded around the kettle hole and wet each contact point well with the flux and waited less than a minute before soldering it. The fittings I just dunked them in a small container I put the flux in. I just rolled them around to be sure they had flux all over them.
Another thing is I heat each of the couplings from inside like that video link I posted. I put a small bead of solder around the joint... basically I tinned it, applied more flux and then worked the torch over and around the outside to work the solder down a bit. Running the heat under the fitting will wick the solder down some.
On a threaded fitting you have to watch carefully or the solder will fill the threads quickly!
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