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Old 01-08-2010, 04:51 AM   #11
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I used this (safety Silv 45) to braze my fittings into my kegs. I used a oxy-mapp torch. Seemed to do the trick. I tried one with jewelers oxy-acetlyne torch but it seemed to get too hot.

I tried your aproach with a thermowell I was trying to make and it failed. I could not get the solder to stick. I must not have been using the right flux.

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Old 01-08-2010, 04:59 AM   #12
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Secret is the flux. The stay clean actually etches off the oxide layer and allows the solder to wet the steel. Very slick.

I think I will try my hand at soldering a kettle tomorrow.

This is where I got the inspiration:


Guy sounds a little like

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Old 01-08-2010, 06:28 AM   #13
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That torch he is using is the same jewelers torch I have. Chances are he is using oxy-acetlyne. He heats those parts up pretty quick.

I will try the stay clean next time. See if I have better luck.

This video was one of my inspirations too. It was the reason I decided to braze my fittings instead of paying a welder. Here is another good one.

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Old 01-08-2010, 01:45 PM   #14
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+1, I have seen some very clean work using silver solder. Since the solder is not as strong as a weld, of course, it is best if the fitting has a larger shoulder on it, or better yet the fitting should be threaded into the kettle, and then soldered for additional strength and water tightness. Skotrat does it here.

http://www.skotrat.com/go/default/br...onversion-101/

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Old 01-08-2010, 01:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swagman View Post
For a tool I have found that a large very large Iron the one I have a present is 150 watt.
Swagman
At the risk of questioning the resident genius/guru....with all due respect Swag, might that iron be 1500w? 150w sounds awfully small?
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:50 PM   #16
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It's good to see someone is actually trying to make real functioning bulkheads. I'm sure everyone can see how that configuration completely takes the nipple's threads out of the potential leak path. You put a gasket between that washer and the inside wall of a cooler and you're golden.

I've done silver soldering with a plain old propane torch and then tried with just MAPP gas on the same torch. Both got it done just fine. The trick with flame, I think, is keeping it off the flux. If you burn it off, the joint will suck. I learned to heat the parts and avoid the flux. Literally, with the right solder and acid flux, it's as easy as sweating copper fittings.

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Old 01-08-2010, 02:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
At the risk of questioning the resident genius/guru....with all due respect Swag, might that iron be 1500w? 150w sounds awfully small?
I don't know about resident genius/guru

1500 watt iron will = 13 AMP iron don't think so


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Old 01-08-2010, 02:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
It's good to see someone is actually trying to make real functioning bulkheads. I'm sure everyone can see how that configuration completely takes the nipple's threads out of the potential leak path. You put a gasket between that washer and the inside wall of a cooler and you're golden.

I've done silver soldering with a plain old propane torch and then tried with just MAPP gas on the same torch. Both got it done just fine. The trick with flame, I think, is keeping it off the flux. If you burn it off, the joint will suck. I learned to heat the parts and avoid the flux. Literally, with the right solder and acid flux, it's as easy as sweating copper fittings.

Bobby, I have actually taken your point of view to heart and tried to find a reasonable solution. I'm not sure soldering or brazing is going to fit the bill due to the labor involved. There is definitely some motor skill involved in the process too.

I know most people find the fittings I sell to be a reasonable and cost effective solution to seal their coolers. I have had fewer than a handful of people ask about solutions for a leak and most of the time it comes back to either the hole is too big or the nipple in the set was the wrong length.

I'm going to sacrifice my first attempt to a 5 lb sledge hammer and see what it takes to drive the washer off.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
It's good to see someone is actually trying to make real functioning bulkheads. I'm sure everyone can see how that configuration completely takes the nipple's threads out of the potential leak path. You put a gasket between that washer and the inside wall of a cooler and you're golden.

I've done silver soldering with a plain old propane torch and then tried with just MAPP gas on the same torch. Both got it done just fine. The trick with flame, I think, is keeping it off the flux. If you burn it off, the joint will suck. I learned to heat the parts and avoid the flux. Literally, with the right solder and acid flux, it's as easy as sweating copper fittings.
As stated above by Bobby_M;
Clean your stainless parts nice and bright before soldering, use cut muriatic acid as flux and stainless will solder as good if not better than clean copper. I've been using an old torch run with natural gas and compressed air plus it's hot enough to do silver soldering. I've silver soldered a couple cracked 10" antique clock bells, dressed them to not see the repair plus they ring again. Overheating with O/A is easy to do unless you move the heat away quickly or cause a total recleaning before resoldering again you have to keep on top of what your doing, be ready and fast with O/A.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
Bobby, I have actually taken your point of view to heart and tried to find a reasonable solution. I'm not sure soldering or brazing is going to fit the bill due to the labor involved. There is definitely some motor skill involved in the process too.

I know most people find the fittings I sell to be a reasonable and cost effective solution to seal their coolers. I have had fewer than a handful of people ask about solutions for a leak and most of the time it comes back to either the hole is too big or the nipple in the set was the wrong length.

I'm going to sacrifice my first attempt to a 5 lb sledge hammer and see what it takes to drive the washer off.
No doubt. I know thousands of brewers are happy with typically sold weldless solutions but I guess the idealist in me just wants to see it done better somehow. I will only sell sightglass kits where I can put the gasket between the compression fitting and the kettle wall with no other parts. The fact that I'm not trying to make a real busi
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