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Old 12-26-2013, 11:56 AM   #1321
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You're gonna need a hole saw and some way to keep the keg and drill centered. Alternatively, you *MIGHT* get away with a step drill bit....depends on the od of the pipe...which is less than 2" off the top of my head. This second method would be preferred...hole saws can be a real PITA.

Brazing is probably a better choice than soldering, that's a very large joint and you need the most strength you can get. You might be able to find a spud large enough to accomodate the 2" triclover fitting, at least you'd have a good shoulder for fitup...and then the solder would probably be enough. Otherwise, you can go with a Safetysilv 30ish alloy versus the full 56%...it is quite expensive...but your color will be slightly off if that matters. Cadmium free silicon bronze will probably work too, but I'd be very careful about the ingredients, this is usually not food grade.

As stated, why 2"? You could get rid of a lot of obstacles by going with a 1" triclover, which will provide PLENTY of flow.

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Old 12-26-2013, 12:55 PM   #1322
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double post.......


Last edited by ScubaSteve; 12-26-2013 at 12:56 PM. Reason: double post....
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #1323
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Thanks HBT. I used the reducer pulled through a coupler approach posted toward the beginning. I had three different 1/2" couplers with night and day differences in quality and size. Several of mine were narrower in the middle, so I picked the best and turned it down on the edge. The more expensive one was dead square with threads like razor blades, and a cut to prove it.

I used liquid stay clean and regular stay bright, not #8 since the only advantage is a wider melting range. Just a standard propane torch I use on copper.

I'm quite pleased with the results. I buffed them up with baking soda and a scotch brite pad.

1388090218988.jpg   1388090234504.jpg  
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:47 AM   #1324
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I dimpled and soldered five 1/2" couplers and soldered on one of Bobby's 1.5" tri-clover solder fittings today onto some keggles. My reducer for the dimple tool was just a little bit smaller than my 1/2" couplers were so it was a little tricky but I managed to make it work. I only pulled the couplers about 1/3 of the way out of the keg. I was glad that I had a dial caliper on hand because that made the dimpling process easier. I used the Stay Brite kit and used up just one of the solder coils and still have another kit left. The tri-clover fitting wasn't that bad either, I just had to manually feed a little more solder in on one side. I have been leak testing for an hour and no leaks so far. I am leaving them overnight to sit and will clean them up in the morning. Once I get the keggles cleaned up I will post pictures. Thanks to everyone for all of your posts and tips over the years. I could not have done it without this forum.

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Old 01-02-2014, 04:17 PM   #1325
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How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?

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Old 01-03-2014, 03:23 PM   #1326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanhope View Post
How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?
I installed all my ball valves with 1 wrench. I installed a 1" spud for a bottom drain and then used a big crescent wrench to install my nipple/valve so tight that the threads bottomed out. No problems. Just make sure you sand everything and use the right flux.
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:49 PM   #1327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanhope
How strong are the silver soldered bulk heads? Has anyone ever broken one torquing down on them?
Bobby M did a video where he soldered a heavy washer to some stock, the beat the hell out of it with a BFH...silver solder is strong enough for our applications was my conclusion.

Of course, done properly with enough area to solder is key
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:14 PM   #1328
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Originally Posted by DallasW View Post
Just picking up the parts to attempt to install a 2" TC ferrule into my kettles. I was just wondering what everyone else has used?

I'm planning on using this for my dimple tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Buttweld-Concentric-Reducer-Stainless-Steel/dp/B004EHGE3W/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Y5XHUEKDZ4IY

This for my flux/solder:
http://www.amazon.com/STA-BRITE-SBSK-Silver-Solder-STAR2000/dp/B0015H6JYS/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A32GBDTWXA9MO1

What I'm wondering is what tool should I use to cut the initial hole, and what size to get? Knockout punches in that size range look like they're about $120, which seems silly to spend on something I'm going to use 1-2 times. Any thoughts?

I also used 2" TC. I'm guessing you want it for heating elements? (thats what I used mine for). Makes the ripple elements alot easier to get in/out.

I used a 1 1/4" conduit punch for the hole and had a dimple tool custom made (so that doesnt help you much). You can get cheap conduit punches at harbor freight and stuff I believe.

This setup has worked out pretty well for me, I would definatly recommend 2" TC for heating elements. I use 1" TC for other connections.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:29 AM   #1329
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The ripple elements make it into 1.5" TC no problem. I personally wouldn't want to use larger holes than necessary especially if you're buying new punches.

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Old 01-05-2014, 12:59 AM   #1330
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Quote:
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The ripple elements make it into 1.5" TC no problem. I personally wouldn't want to use larger holes than necessary especially if you're buying new punches.
I mocked up both before deciding and preferred the 2" (didn't mean to imply 1.5" doesn't work). Of course its a personal preference and to each their own.

If I did it again I'd probably go 1.5" with straight elements, but for ripple I like the 2".
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