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Old 10-28-2013, 08:30 PM   #1281
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The kettles I got were either this, or extremely similar.

This is the solder I used

This is the Flux I am using.



The die is a 1" ID threaded coupler I got from Menards.

I also have some pics... I will try that cold solder technique... and have a few questions on another hole... but I will first add pics for the holes in question.

Here is one of the problem childs...


Bottom with the tear...


View from the inside... uncleaned yet



Here is my next issue... the first hole I did was FANTASTIC! except after the solder had reflowed... I moved the pot too quickly causing the solder to run all over... I add more solder and reheated it, but I didn't add more flux.. I believe I caused a bad joint... Can I fix this by adding more flux around the spot and then just reflowing it one more time?

Outside - looks pretty


inside (out of focus, sorry) - you can see it is a rounder bead rather than laying flat

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:45 PM   #1282
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How big of a hole did you start with? I started with a 7/8" hole and it worked perfect.

What kind of heat source are you using? I didn't get that much discoloration of the stainless or burning of the flux around the joint.

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Old 10-30-2013, 11:51 PM   #1283
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I started with a 7/8" hole, but the greenlee punch for some odd ass reason leaves a little cut out on the edge, not a perfect circle :-/ I am a bit disappointed with the performance, all my other greenlee punches are great.. not sure what's wrong with this one...

Also, I think the metal in the pot is simply too thin or brittle to work properly...

I have been doing the cold soldering to fix the joints and they are looking great... just gotta keep going slow I guess.

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Old 10-31-2013, 04:47 AM   #1284
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Might a slightly larger receiving die not create such a sharp bend at the dimple and be less prone to cracking?

Some of the other dimples posted here seem more gradual and not as abrupt. As if the outer part against the pot is slightly larger diameter,

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:01 PM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Might a slightly larger receiving die not create such a sharp bend at the dimple and be less prone to cracking?

Some of the other dimples posted here seem more gradual and not as abrupt. As if the outer part against the pot is slightly larger diameter,
Worth a shot!
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:05 AM   #1286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorglath View Post

Also, I think the metal in the pot is simply too thin or brittle to work properly...
From your description, you have had several problem pulls. Are the tears always nearest to the bottom of the kettle?

If so, could the proximity of the hole to the bottom of the kettle play a part? I imagine that the area closest to the the bend receives more stress during the forming process and may have left the metal more susceptible to tearing.

Just my two cents.

Sorry to hear you are having problems.

Good Luck.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:01 AM   #1287
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Stainless steel has a tendency to work harden when sawing, drilling, filing, etc. Are you punching your 7/8" hole or drilling before drawing? I have had better luck drawing a dimple after drilling rather than punching. There are stresses induced when punching that don't seem to be when drilled with a step drill at a rapid rate.

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Old 11-04-2013, 02:41 PM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docbruw View Post
How big of a hole did you start with? I started with a 7/8" hole and it worked perfect.

What kind of heat source are you using? I didn't get that much discoloration of the stainless or burning of the flux around the joint.
I am new to this and was using way too much flux. I have watched some videos now and have been using much less, and heating the kettle more before applying heat to the coupler, which is resulting in much less discoloration. Also, in the pictures I hadn't cleaned the joints yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phasevariable View Post
From your description, you have had several problem pulls. Are the tears always nearest to the bottom of the kettle?

If so, could the proximity of the hole to the bottom of the kettle play a part? I imagine that the area closest to the the bend receives more stress during the forming process and may have left the metal more susceptible to tearing.

Just my two cents.

Sorry to hear you are having problems.

Good Luck.
Nope, even when I do my 'water input' holes for the top of the kettle it splits. Tried with the larger coupler, and it still happened... but at the same time I was having another issue with my pulling bolt and nut... so I'm trying again once replaced tonight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtex52 View Post
Stainless steel has a tendency to work harden when sawing, drilling, filing, etc. Are you punching your 7/8" hole or drilling before drawing? I have had better luck drawing a dimple after drilling rather than punching. There are stresses induced when punching that don't seem to be when drilled with a step drill at a rapid rate.
I drill a small pilot hole, then punch to 7/8. I tried using my step bit, but my step bit has worn down in several areas and it's very hard to grow the hole past those areas... again, when I was new to making the holes I didn't realize high pressure low speed was needed... pretty sure I cooked the damn thing (even using cutting oil).
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #1289
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Lorglath

I have the same pots and in order to avoid tearing I started with a 15/16 hole. Makes for a smaller dimple but its plenty for soldering.

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Old 11-05-2013, 01:16 AM   #1290
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Thanks for all that contributed. I added 4 full couplings between my HLT and MT this week. Showed them off to brew club friends when I brought my stuff out for our club teach a friend homebrew day. Everyone was very impressed.

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