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Old 10-18-2013, 06:09 PM   #1271
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Has anyone noticed any difference in difficulty in soldering the various alloys of stainless? (18/8 vs 316, etc.)

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Old 10-18-2013, 06:29 PM   #1272
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Has anyone noticed any difference in difficulty in soldering the various alloys of stainless? (18/8 vs 316, etc.)
Not at all.
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:36 PM   #1273
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Thank, Bobby.

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Old 10-18-2013, 08:11 PM   #1274
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Ruby fluid is also a good flux fairly cheap also , muriatic acid will work . As much as some of you pay for flux and silver solder . Prob have it tig welded .
I paid $12 for my .5 oz stay bright flux and silver solder combo pack and I've dimpled and soldered 9 couplings between the kettle and HLT. I have more than enough solder and flux left to do the elements in both. I'm still on the same 14oz propane tank for my torch also. The dimple tool I used was <$20.

How much does tig welding cost? I've never looked into it.
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:19 PM   #1275
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Quick questions... I have been trying to solder my stainless pots but I am having an issue with the pot splitting. I have been using a punch, now at 7/8" and using a dimpler to grow it to 1" but it has been causing the pipe to split rather than just grow. After the pot split, sometimes in a few areas I still tried to solder everything... the hole soldered well, but where there are splits, the solder drips out rather than filling the holes... so I have two questions...

How do i fill the gaps where the solder initially bled through? I can likely re flux it, then just let the solder bead drip through it by melting it above the hole and hoping it stop, drys and sticks to the openings... other than that I am at a loss... use a soldering iron?

How can I grow the holes such that it doesn't split?! Should I warm the pot up before I try to use the expander? should I use a drill so there is a constant force? Should I get an even larger punch, say 15/16"?

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Old 10-27-2013, 08:53 PM   #1276
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How big is the hole? The large OD flat gasket might be the ticket if you're using an oring now.
I currently have a 1/2" ID NPT threaded nipple going through right now and there is too much space around the edges that the rubber gasket that is used, slips inside the hole, albeit a tight fit, but not water tight
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #1277
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Quick questions... I have been trying to solder my stainless pots but I am having an issue with the pot splitting. I have been using a punch, now at 7/8" and using a dimpler to grow it to 1" but it has been causing the pipe to split rather than just grow. After the pot split, sometimes in a few areas I still tried to solder everything... the hole soldered well, but where there are splits, the solder drips out rather than filling the holes... so I have two questions...

How do i fill the gaps where the solder initially bled through? I can likely re flux it, then just let the solder bead drip through it by melting it above the hole and hoping it stop, drys and sticks to the openings... other than that I am at a loss... use a soldering iron?

How can I grow the holes such that it doesn't split?! Should I warm the pot up before I try to use the expander? should I use a drill so there is a constant force? Should I get an even larger punch, say 15/16"?
Wow, that's unfortunate. Honestly, if you can't pull a 7/8 hole to 1", I don't think this method is viable for you. If you use a 15/16" hole and pull it to 1", that's only 1/32" contact patch. I suspect there may be too large of a gap between your mandrel and die for the thin-ness of your pot. What's the ID of your pulling die?
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:51 PM   #1278
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This is the puller I am using.

When I put it through the hole made from the die, it makes it about a 1/2" through before meeting resistance, I do notice it doesn't want to pull straight through, which is telling me there is more stress on once side vs. another.

Any suggestions on how I can fill the holes left from these cracks? would pictures help?
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:07 PM   #1279
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Are you using regular Harris stay brite or stay brite #8? The higher silver content of #8 will fill larger gaps. One trick is to get everything nice a clean again, flux, then cold solder over the hole. This isn't really ideal, but it will seal the holes just fine... Warm up the area where the hole is by applying direct flame right to it, remove the flame and see if you can get some solder to melt but just barely. Keep heating, trying, heating trying.... as soon as it kinda melts but sticks... apply the flame and feed solder in and remove the flame immediately. You're not trying to get the whole thing to reflow, just applying enough heat to the solder to use it as "putty".

I see what you're using as the puller... I'd call that part the mandrel... which is the object that forms the inside of the flare. The "die" side of the pulling tool could also be called the "receiver". I know it's confusing because you also make the hole with a punch and die... If you're using the pipe reducer as your mandrel, what are you using as the cup shaped die on the other side of the pot wall?

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Old 10-28-2013, 05:51 PM   #1280
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That's the exact mandrel I used on all my dimples and it worked great on all my kegs. I used this as my die/receiver side.

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