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Old 08-19-2013, 03:32 PM   #1251
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Originally Posted by ryanhope View Post
Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.
It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:08 PM   #1252
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It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.
Yeah I have watched a few videos on how to dimple...
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:19 PM   #1253
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Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose

Now we're talkin'
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:28 PM   #1254
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Ok I don't remember if it was mentioned after reading this massive thread. Where can I buy the butt weld part local. I went to lowes and Home Depot and have only found the threaded fitting and none are reducers like we need

Please if you know let me know I really wana get some dimples pulled tonight.

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Old 09-06-2013, 10:08 PM   #1255
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Butt weld fittings are industrial supplies. No way in hell any hardware store or home center is going to have them.

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Old 09-09-2013, 11:56 PM   #1256
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I'm just going to start building mine

I planning on using a 2" TC ferrule for a coupling a heating element. But according to BH, it "...Does NOT fit a RIPP or 'wavy' element" ?? I thought that was the reason for going to a 2" vs a 1"?

Here's the 2" Tri Clover Compatible X 1" NPS Element Adapter:
https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tr...t-Adapter.html

Here's my element:


If the above does work, can you get away with a short ferrule or do you need a medium one?

********EDIT*********
After thinking about it more, it may be possible that there isn't enough length from the end of the element (that folds back) to the kettle once you stack you the lengths of the ferrule & element adapter-True?
If I need something shorter, would a short 2" (or 1.5") ferrule with a TC/NPS fitting work? Guess I could always solder the TC/NPS fitting to an electrical gang box cover and box like Kal to shorten it up as much as possible-Thoughts?

Anyone buy reducers for dimpling a 2" vs making your own? Looking to see what my options are....

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Old 09-10-2013, 01:06 AM   #1257
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The still dragon element adapter will take a ripple element. I use a 2" ferrule.

BSD

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Old 09-10-2013, 02:57 AM   #1258
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I have that element in front of me and it fits into a 1.5" TC adapter and LONG ferrule no problem. I'm not sure what the perceived problem is. It works with a regular 1.5" TC to 1" NPSL adapter or with the enclosed version we sell like this one:

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Old 09-10-2013, 10:52 AM   #1259
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Ha! Got you mixed up with a different site Bobby. Crisis averted

Do the part #'s below look OK for a 1.5" Ferrule?
Butt weld pipe fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#45605k725/=ogaodx
Socket Weld fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4335t65/=ogap5n

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Old 09-17-2013, 04:46 PM   #1260
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What has been the best/cheapest method for making holes for 1/2 NPT couplers and 1.5" TC?
I plan to use a 7/8 hole saw for the coupler but can't find a good size for the TC.

Parts for the keg tools:
1/2" coupler> McMaster 45605K725 & 4335T65
1.5 TC> McMaster 45605K711 & 4335T64

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