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Old 01-17-2013, 05:10 AM   #1141
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Originally Posted by cgherrington3 View Post
Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose

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Originally Posted by hockypunk View Post
I'm a cheap ass so I'd probably stick with my step bit when I do my third keg. The holes became slower to cut when I got closer to the final size I needed for some reason. I'd say the first coupling took about an hour an a half while I was figuring it out as I went and being extra careful. Once I knew what I was doing I flew through the next hole in about half an hour. I haven't read the part about the sockets. I do however think the tapered coupler is a more gradual way to open the steel and ward off any tearing in the metal. I'm not even sure if this is something to be concerned about but whatever. Cheers.
This is a quote of post #1044 on page 105. I thought this was a pretty good idea when cbherrington3 first posted it but no one has commented on it...

And I may be more of a cheap ass than you - if I can avoid blowing the bucks on concentric couplers and still get a good dimple, I'd rather spend that cash elsewhere... How much did you spend on fittings for your dimple tool?

And thanks for the clarification on time - so an hours learning curve up-front and then about a half an hour per joint - not bad!

-fafrd
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:42 PM   #1142
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I have a few pinhole leaks on two of my holes. Has anyone done this on both the inside and outside? Pool the solder on one side then plain solder the other side. Kind of double protection.

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:47 PM   #1143
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
OK - thanks. I guess if I ever knock one of these of I can always dimple and re-solder, right? For a temperature probe, I like the idea of a minimum-sized hole in the vessel wall if it can be strong enough...
Yep.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:48 PM   #1144
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Originally Posted by CoalCracker View Post
I have a few pinhole leaks on two of my holes. Has anyone done this on both the inside and outside? Pool the solder on one side then plain solder the other side. Kind of double protection.
I would clean everything up, re-flux, re-heat & re-flow the solder. It should wick through the joint a bit and seal those holes.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:55 PM   #1145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
OK - thanks. I guess if I ever knock one of these of I can always dimple and re-solder, right? For a temperature probe, I like the idea of a minimum-sized hole in the vessel wall if it can be strong enough...
The thing about drilling a smaller hole in the wall after the coupler is soldered onto the outside is that you would end up with liquid trapped inside the fitting.
The hole for the temp probe would be smaller than the coupling, correct? Just big enough to get the temp probe through?

So when the water/wort/liquid level is above that hole, it will naturally flow into the fitting - into the area between the kettle wall and the temp probe threads.
However, when you drain the kettle not all of that liquid will be able to drain out, a small amount will be trapped in the fitting below the temp probe hole.
It won't be a huge amount of fluid, but maybe something to consider
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:39 PM   #1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockypunk

I used a 1/2" bolt with no problems.
Was it a pain to center?
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #1147
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Originally Posted by DustBow View Post
The thing about drilling a smaller hole in the wall after the coupler is soldered onto the outside is that you would end up with liquid trapped inside the fitting.
The hole for the temp probe would be smaller than the coupling, correct? Just big enough to get the temp probe through?

So when the water/wort/liquid level is above that hole, it will naturally flow into the fitting - into the area between the kettle wall and the temp probe threads.
However, when you drain the kettle not all of that liquid will be able to drain out, a small amount will be trapped in the fitting below the temp probe hole.
It won't be a huge amount of fluid, but maybe something to consider
DustBow, this is a good point and thanks for the heads-up. The half-coupling I am considering

(shown here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/4464k222/=l2sxkm)

has an unthreaded portion against the weld/solder surface, so it should be possible to drill out a full-size hole without damaging the threads (or in the worse case, drill a plot hole from the outside of the vessel and a full-size hole from the inside).

This would result n a hole matching the OD of the 1/4" pipe (closer to 1/2") but probably better that than having trapped fluid.

I suppose another idea could be to weld on a compression nut facing out - you could then drill out a precise 1/4" hole (tube OD), thread in a 1/4" compression-to-compression coupler, and you would be golden.

Has anyone tried this? Any reason it would not work? Are the threads on a compression nut so fragile that they would be damaged from soldering?

-fafrd
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:43 PM   #1148
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I think you are making things more difficult than they have to be - if you are planning on soldering anyway, just use a welding spud.
Perfect for "one-sided" connections like a temp probe - and they don't require a dimple.

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Old 01-18-2013, 04:43 AM   #1149
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Thanks Dustbow - I have not used any of these fittings before, so if a welding spud will work well for a temp probe and is easier because no dimple is needed, that is all I need to hear. I am trying to avoid to avoid any protrusion into the vessel cavity so I need a spud that has a nipple/protrusion no thicker that the keg wall thickness - where can I find these (the 'full height' spuds appear to have a 1/4" nipple/protrusion, so I will want 'low height' stainless spuds with only a 1/8" nipple/protrusion)??

-fafrd

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Old 01-24-2013, 02:42 AM   #1150
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I've been having more fun soldering stuff with my Staybrite. This time I soldered stainless pipe thread joints from the inside to get a semi-sanitary seal. I created a new thread, take a look, but I figured I'd mention it here in this legendary thread of all things stainless steel soldering.

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